tandman

iTrader: (7)

When I switched from a front diff to running a spool in the front of my IRS TC3 my cars handling in and out of the corners increased significantly. Mostly the acceleration out of the corner increased the braking was a little much at first but I dialed that out with my ESC. As for the rear diff, like was mention above , I run it as loose as possible without slipping. This usually takes a little adjusting between each round to keep the right amount of tension. I also keep the rear diff well lubed and maintained. Clean and relube it every couple of rounds. This is running rubber tires on ashphalt.

Wency_TA03R-PRO

Spool is much better to use rather than front one way co'z I seen the difference in handling epecially on the tracks.. You can feel the car response on the cornering.

DRIVEN

Not sure where to post this but i'll post here anyway since I've got 3 TC3's

Which one is more efficient, 2 teeth overgeared but only run 70% throttle or correct gearing but use 100% full throttle?

ZER01

DRIVEN, you are asking for a theory. Only you can answer that but I can say I tune to my driving as it stays the same so only you can find which is right. As I'm going down that straight there is no end on throttle. Seventy percent throttle down the straight won't cut it for me.

tc3 racer sc

hello fellow tc3 racer i want to stop my rear end coming around i put new hinge pins redone the diff and still wants to spin arouind what can i do to get good traction thxs reggie

utracer

help please- my brother has a TC3 RTR wich he races it is getting smoked by xxx-s cars he wants to get rid of it but I think it it a good car can someone please give me hints on what he can do it has a 19 turn spec motor in it wich we have to stay with other than that what can he do to make it faster thanks

rally

getting a nicer motor will help...if he had the same setups as the guys with the xxxs' then he would beet them

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

DRIVEN: What you are asking for is an answer that depends on the class you run. In stock class, overgearing can definitely ruin a motor. Modified is a little bit more tolerant to overgearing a tooth or two, (64 pitch) you are however usually faced with the excessive ampdraw of overgearing a modified. Even if you only use a supposed percentage of throttle, the ampdraw will still be higher on average when compared to a properly geared setup. This can of course cause you to dump before the end of the round. The only class i have found overgearing useful is modified offroad 2WD, on a slick track. This is general though, and with variations in jumps and straight lengths, this may not even be helpful. It is all subjective to certain circumstances. I used to over gear mod TC all the time, and realized after doing extensive dyno work, i was doing myself more harm than good. An efficiently geared motor will provide you with faster lap times any day, and cost less in the long run. In stock class, on most tracks, if you overgear, youre slower than if you were geared right. Motors have what some would call a sweet spot, which is basically the best performance the wire in the motor can deliver under the given load. In stock you have a small wire wrapped around the armature, if you compare it to the larger wire found on some armatures in mod, you can imagine why the mod motor provides more power. Its similar to the amount of water a firehose puts out, compared to your lawn and garden hose. On the same end, the firehose requires a larger supply of water to keep the pressure consistent. This flow of water is measured in gallons per minute or GPM. Our supply of "water" is our battery packs, and they are measured in MAH, or, milliamps per hour. Overgearing your modified works to an extent because you are utilizing a larger wire that has a large source to draw from, but it still has its limits (heat/resistance). Stock has the same source, but cant flow that much power due to the wiresize limitation.

If you want a general rule of thumb, gear your motor, any motor, to run no hotter than 140 degrees in a 5 minute race/qualifier in any ambient temperature. Some motors will of course be able to run hotter, but some will not tolerate it. 140 is a mid range to get you started. If you run a fan on your motor in your TC3, it will generally cool your motor 15 to 20 degrees. This doesnt mean you can necessarily gear higher, but your motor will provide more power during your race. Magnets that are cool provide more power, with less heat there is more efficiency, with more efficiency, your battery gives you more towards the end of the run.

- DaveW

DRIVEN

Dave, thanks for the answer. That's what I've been looking for the longest time "The Sweet Spot". No matter what I do, i've always been motored out by the rest in the straights not to mention batteries and motor are considerably new. I only run stock TC and have tried several combination of FDR on a Monster stock. I was thinking the 30% remaining to full throttle will pull me out on the straights and mainly use 70% in the in field.

By the way, a few pages back, you mentioned an asphalt setup of your droop settings, 3 in the front 2 in the back. Is that a typo or for real? Whatever it was, i tried that setting, the car was a little lazy, but it was really hooked up.

MARKANO

Using Rear shock tower in front:

Any advantages?
Under what track condition? Poor grip or High traction track?

I'm using front oneway, is it necessary?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

DRIVEN: I know what you mean, it really takes alot of track time to get the feel for motors. And just when you think you got one firgured out... here comes a new one. In stock class, there is always one variable that doesnt change... wire length and thickness. Any stock motor that is released that is "new and improved" still has to work within certain guidelines. It makes it a little easier to know that only so much power can be produced by a stock motor. They just find a way to utilize the given power more efficiently (sometimes), or get more torque/power through stronger grade magnets (more RPM is then achieved by reducing the amount of segments in the armature blank, since the magnets are stronger, less material in the arm blank is needed for similar power, less material in the arm blank means faster spool up times and more overall RPM... i.e. the monster stock motor). That is a generalized statement, and doesnt apply to all motor types. In stock class i am usually full throttle around the track, unless there is a 180 switchback or a carousel turn... other than that im on it. Mod is a different story, i have to throttle drive, and i do so much with my transmitter to help me out (steering/throttle speed, EPA, and exponential throttle/steering) it would be hard to say percentages, but i would say maybe 40%/50% throttle for cornering (considering trigger position) and 100% on straights. I use no more than 50% braking of any given motor (full trigger position). That setup i posted a few pages back wasnt a typo, i still use 3 in the front and 2 in the back. This past week the setup changed a bit because of the amount of bite available, but the droop stayed the same. (60 wt front/rear, red springs F/ blue springs R, no swaybars F/R, F+2 block in the front instead of the F+0, 6mm rideheight... there were sections of the track that werent smooth from the new asphalt being laid, like small steps where the steam roller didnt press the asphalt smooth, many were of course at the apex of the turns) I do know if you are using the stock shock caps, the car will feel lazy. The Yok bladder caps really help bound and rebound in the car, transitions being much faster. (HPI shocks come with bladders... they are very nice too)

MARKANO: The rear shock tower is mostly used up front when someone is trying to get rid of bite in the front of the car. When i say "bite", i mean overall steering response. It basically controls how much weight is transferred to the front somewhat better than the standard shock tower, through shock mounting position (standing it up more). It seems i also see the tower being used by mod drivers, where throttle/brake induced weight transition is more pronounced in the car. I like it on high speed asphalt tracks, but 95% of the time i still use the standard front tower. Again, it is honestly something you need to try to see for yourself.
One-ways can be faster on certain tracks (flowing tracks where little brake is needed) but in the TC3 it is considered by most a weakness. A one-way in the TC3 can mean alot of broken parts in modified class, but again it depends on your driving style. If you drive by "braille" and tag corners alot, i would save your $$$. It can be very frustrating to have to repeatedly rebuild the car after seemingly small impacts break it. Sometimes all you have to do it graze the pipe with a one-way, and the car breaks. I personally would rather finish 3rd in the main than not finish at all. Its hard to be a consistent driver if youre in your pit replacing dogbones and arms and not out on the track. Again, its is something you really should try to know if you like it. On another note... a friend of mine just got the HPI PRO4, and it comes with the one-way to be installed. He tried it with the one-way, and immediately ordered another front diff. It just didnt fit him the way he liked to drive. But some tracks with a high level of competition may require you to run a one-way to be on pace, it just depends. Hows that for an answer that really isnt an answer?

- DaveW

utracer

so no ideas other than the motor than my brother can do to make it faster?????? again it is a rtr tc3 thanks

rally

clean the gear mesh....clean the ball bearings..just cleanthe car...that way itll roll more freely...get a better servo and beet ppl on the corners

nitrous36

I plan on updating to a new touring car and considered the TC3. But with the car being 5 years old there might be a new one around the corner and I thought maybe I should wait for the successor and dont be so quick to by the current one. When will or how soon will ae replace the TC3. If I get one what modifications will I have to make right away to make it competitive at the track. Its a parking lot track. What gearing would you recommend for a Team Orion 17T Rushed modified motor?

Smalls

Dave W.

You talked baout lap times from 7-9 seconds.. is that a oval track with a chicance on one side? That sounds like a w i d e open layout.