ROBORAT

iTrader: (7)

redneck: as dingus said, try getting a set of the composite cvd bones. the plastic outdrives too but u probly have thoose already. another good lightening piece is the IRS alum input shafts to replace those steel ones that come with the kit.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Low turn mods are not a problem, just make sure you gear them conservatively, and remeber to keep them very regularly serviced, ie new true every couple of runs (2-3), new brushes as required. They run very fast but not for long, you will dump a good 3000 pack in 5 minutes.

In Australia we do not have a motor limit, and 8-9 turns are very common with a few running down to 6's

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

robk. Yes, Hara was running TC3 diffs at the Reedy. Two things he was doing wrong:

1) GLUING the diff together. Not good. If you hit something and free one side of the diff...well, you get the point. One locked side and one free???

2) He was running with an aluminum bulkhead that was milled (for weight saving) and left the diff exposed. While the Tamiya crew did a good job of cleaning the track, there was still junk on it....small crap would get in the exposed area and whammo. Done diff.

I've run plastics in my car for a LONG time. I went back to the steelies (in mod) just because they're a bit more durable. I'm not to concerned with diff weight in mod. I can lose that somewhere else.

snoopy

Yes i also run a steel in the front of my tc3 for better durability, but the rear does'nt take as much of a hammering as the front, so i stick with the plastic one on the rear. Even running brushless motors with my tc3, the plastic diff's hold up very well to the power.

laptraffic

iTrader: (7)

Has anyone had a problem with the foams rubbings against the inner bottom part of the shock when using the rear tower in the front.

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

We ran both TC3s this afternoon.

LOCKED FRONT DIFF. The exit steering response when the power is applied is great. The acceleration out of corners impressive. However on our circuit where you spend alot of time approaching tight hairpins from high speed, the initial turn in is just not good enough, even with the least front caster possible.

I now agree with whoever it was that said that the locked front set up is OK for small tight circuits but of no advantage on big fast circuits like ours is.

NORMAL 4WD SET UP. The old faithful was as good as ever. We played with motors today, and found a bit more speed. Josh still prefers the old Stratus to the Alfa shell, but we will be trying the new Stratus as soon as he gets his painted. It actually looks as though it has the blunt front of the Alfa which should help keep the front end planted, and better airflow to the rear wing, which should help the rear. We shall see.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. Bigger tracks like one-ways more. The diff setup just allows you to drive harder TO the corner, brake, and drive around it. If you play with the front some (not sure if you tried it, but throw the rear tower on the front) you can get ALOT more turn-in than you think. I run a pretty aggressive front end and I can drive it like a one-way....then use brakes if I need to dip on someone.

Mike F

I was starting to tighten up the diff last Saturday night when the screw striped so I disassemble the entire diff, degreased it, took the 12 bearings off the diff spur, placed the 6 back in along with the spring and shoo goo the 2 out drives to each side of the diff spur. My thinking on this was that no heat will be generated so I don't have to worry about it loosening up, I'm not running mod so it wont heat up too much and I should still get the same result as a "locked diff" set up. I hear what your saying and depending on what type of glue he used he would get a lock side and a free side but using the correct type of glue I think it will work. I'll know this weekend when I run it if it works or not, if it doesn't oh well, chalk it up as an experience. I have the rear shock tower in the front as well.

I'll let you know how it works out.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Just paging around on the Trinity site, i saw a post from one of the Trinity drivers saying he locked the diff of his XXXS. He just replaced the diff rings with diff rings cut from head card material (i know...). Anyway I'm gonna try it, we shall see if i have a paper mill in the front of my car. The diff did lock tightly though....

V12

iTrader: (1)

Regarding the locked frontdiff thing and the rear tower in the front. Do you need the new front arms with the 2 holes or does it work with the old arms also and what do you have to change? Iīm asking this as we donīt have the new arms yet and I think we have to wait at least two or three weeks more for them.

TRL

Ok can someone explain what a locked diff is just a regular diff tightened up until the screw bottoms out?And has anyone tried it on carpet wit foams yet?also what about the rear shock tower on front with foams on carpet?

Thanks

rcpainter

just want to share the way i lock my diff. I cut little pieces of a rubber eraser, twice as big as the diff-balls. when you tighten the diff you compress the rubbers and then the diff is really locked.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

robk: That's right, drivers are experimenting with different things, including slipper clutch pads, and rubbers erasers as rcpainter pointed out in his/her post.

V12: Yes, you need the revised front arms, Part #3885 Version2 TC3 Front Suspension Arms (Carbon Fiber), in order to lower the front ride height of your chassis.

TRL: The locked diff, or "Spool" as some refer to it, is the diff with the balls removed (I know, that does sound a little funny). Some drivers are experimenting with other materials in place of the diff balls in an attempt reduce friction.

Fred Hubbard

ROBORAT

iTrader: (7)

robk: you're right. its actually Todd Hodge who's one of the trinity/losi drivers who has been testing a "spool" (as he likes to call it) in his XXXS sedan. ive been frequenting the trinity forums the past month and was the one who brought up the topic in his thread (my handle there is "Skylab") the header card works perfectly in my losi. should work just as well for the tc3 although i havnt tried it yet in mine.

TmLost

Dragon R/C is making a Solid Diff (spool) for the TC3 and the XXX-S they should be avalble later this month

Dragon r/c website should have the information up soon

check out www.dragonrc.com for more information.