57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
03-17-2010, 04:47 PM
#3346
03-17-2010, 04:51 PM
#3347
san. - we're getting real #$%^# close.
I saw my emails today and said to myself - "self, I think Adam's vacation is just about OVER." LOL
So lets make a contest - WHAT SHOULD ADAM's EMAIL BE?
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
my personal favorite:
[email protected]
Post your suggestions! ROFLMA$$HatO
I saw my emails today and said to myself - "self, I think Adam's vacation is just about OVER." LOL
So lets make a contest - WHAT SHOULD ADAM's EMAIL BE?
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
my personal favorite:
[email protected]
Post your suggestions! ROFLMA$$HatO
thanks for all the hard work,
for adam, like it always answers the phone,
"heydudewhatsup"@king-golden.com
03-17-2010, 04:55 PM
#3349
Just wanted to thank Shawn and Adam for their hard work these past few months. Not just coming from a racer, but as a track owner myself, Speedpassion is doing quite a bit to make the races the best it can be. Big Thumbs up guys! I can't wait for Speedpassion to release all the new, cool stuff they have planned!
03-17-2010, 07:22 PM
#3354
Speed Passion Supercharger Beta - 2ndPG
Hey guys, check this out and see if it works for you.
<whispering> this is the new Supercharger BETA software
http://rapidshare.com/files/36
2493193/Supercharger_Beta.zip
<whispering> this is the new Supercharger BETA software
http://rapidshare.com/files/36
2493193/Supercharger_Beta.zip
New settings added:
12) Supercharger Boost Level: This sets the overall supercharger power level. High levels may
increase speed, but always at the expense of motor heat.
13) Supercharger RPM Delay: This controls when the supercharger settings engage. When the motor
RPM reaches this setting, the ESC will engage the supercharger.
14) Supercharger Full Throttle Delay: This setting delays the application of the supercharger
function until after a set time has been reached while holding FULL Throttle.
15) Supercharger Punch: This setting controls timing advance at RPMs below the Start RPM setting.
Lower settings decrease motor temps, and higher settings increase punch and motor temps. (note:
low punch settings are high programming value #s, and high punch settings are low programming
value #s)
Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6
A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust
#13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the
car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it
just barely doesn’t top out.
B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until it’s
making the kick come in later than it was before – then back it down one value.
C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got enough rip
already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on
overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!
D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:
Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost
and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor
slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also
dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can
experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get
faster than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back
down the boost to the next lower setting.
2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and
overheat quickly – back the punch down.
3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the
infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a
little kick where you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it. For almost ALL tracks however -
just have the boost engage on the straight.
IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able
to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly
translate into faster lap times.
When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's
better or worse!
.
.
12) Supercharger Boost Level: This sets the overall supercharger power level. High levels may
increase speed, but always at the expense of motor heat.
13) Supercharger RPM Delay: This controls when the supercharger settings engage. When the motor
RPM reaches this setting, the ESC will engage the supercharger.
14) Supercharger Full Throttle Delay: This setting delays the application of the supercharger
function until after a set time has been reached while holding FULL Throttle.
15) Supercharger Punch: This setting controls timing advance at RPMs below the Start RPM setting.
Lower settings decrease motor temps, and higher settings increase punch and motor temps. (note:
low punch settings are high programming value #s, and high punch settings are low programming
value #s)
Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6
A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust
#13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the
car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it
just barely doesn’t top out.
B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until it’s
making the kick come in later than it was before – then back it down one value.
C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if you’ve got enough rip
already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on
overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!
D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:
Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost
and punch. It’s easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor
slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also
dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once you’ve completed the above, you can
experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get
faster than the next one lower. That’s the motor’s breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back
down the boost to the next lower setting.
2) Same process for punch – too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and
overheat quickly – back the punch down.
3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the
infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a
little kick where you want it, but NOT where you don’t want it. For almost ALL tracks however -
just have the boost engage on the straight.
IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able
to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly
translate into faster lap times.
When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's
better or worse!
.
.
"Value 11" is like hangar 18 - it doesn't exist. If you keep on
looking at it and asking questions, the men in black suits and dark shades will come to your door
to reinforce the fact that it indeed does not exist.
If you persist, the little gray
spindly guys with big dark eyes will show up in your room late at night and perform "adjustments"
to your hindquarters and mutilate your livestock. I know it's true - Art Bell has been telling me
so for years.
But seriously - "Value 11" is reserved for some future goodies coming into the software soon.
Time travel, quantum traction increase, levitation, drug free male enhancement - it's all on the
table right now.
looking at it and asking questions, the men in black suits and dark shades will come to your door
to reinforce the fact that it indeed does not exist.
If you persist, the little gray spindly guys with big dark eyes will show up in your room late at night and perform "adjustments"
to your hindquarters and mutilate your livestock. I know it's true - Art Bell has been telling me
so for years.
But seriously - "Value 11" is reserved for some future goodies coming into the software soon.
Time travel, quantum traction increase, levitation, drug free male enhancement - it's all on the
table right now.
I salute you.
Now i Know were in the right Plans
Excellent.
tiny question, can we do the
Custom Value RPM on "13" ?
i see the gap is too far more like 1000,
may be i would like to have like 500 step.
since not every 13.5t had the same kV.
Hi irgo, - finer adjustment on RPM delay:
Have you run the new software at your track and found "setting A" kicks in too early, and
stepping to "setting B" is too late? If so, try adjusting the time delay to find a happy medium.
They work together, so you should be able to find that happy place.
The rpm settings may look like large differences just looking at the numbers, but on the track
the range is much finer than you'd expect.
As for a custom settable function, the possibility is there if it's needed in the future. Let us
know if you get stuck between two RPM settings on the track and we'll add that to the BETA
feedback.
Have you run the new software at your track and found "setting A" kicks in too early, and
stepping to "setting B" is too late? If so, try adjusting the time delay to find a happy medium.
They work together, so you should be able to find that happy place.
The rpm settings may look like large differences just looking at the numbers, but on the track
the range is much finer than you'd expect.
As for a custom settable function, the possibility is there if it's needed in the future. Let us
know if you get stuck between two RPM settings on the track and we'll add that to the BETA
feedback.
TRF4:
The 2.1s available for sale right now have the previous stock software on them. This "latest"
we're talking about here has just gone out for beta testing. It will be in the 2.1s when it is
proven and available for everyone in the main software on the SP site.
ronaldo:
10.5 is right on the edge of "OK" to use supercharger settings - be very very careful.
For 13.5 you can use either 230 0r 231.
leonard:
The short answer is LESS than what you can accomplish with ESC settings. If you run mod, the cool
kids are hip to running the larger diameter rotors for more punch and cooler temps (more
efficiency with more magnet volume).
mick:
The Emotions are awesome systems for the Losi minis. I've been racing with them for a couple
years now, and the performance is smooth and fast.
Questions:
1) Do you really want your buggy to be 60mph+ capable? I would recommend the 6900 combo over the
7800 for anything except pure high speed record attempts.
2) Do you plan to run 3s at all, or only 2s?
3s with the 7800 is a recipe for disaster. (but it'll be really fast for those 4
seconds...)
The 2.1s available for sale right now have the previous stock software on them. This "latest"
we're talking about here has just gone out for beta testing. It will be in the 2.1s when it is
proven and available for everyone in the main software on the SP site.
ronaldo:
For 13.5 you can use either 230 0r 231.
leonard:
The short answer is LESS than what you can accomplish with ESC settings. If you run mod, the cool
kids are hip to running the larger diameter rotors for more punch and cooler temps (more
efficiency with more magnet volume).
mick:
The Emotions are awesome systems for the Losi minis. I've been racing with them for a couple
years now, and the performance is smooth and fast.
Questions:
1) Do you really want your buggy to be 60mph+ capable? I would recommend the 6900 combo over the
7800 for anything except pure high speed record attempts.
2) Do you plan to run 3s at all, or only 2s?
3s with the 7800 is a recipe for disaster. (but it'll be really fast for those 4
seconds...)
+++
Setup Sheet
+++
Hello,
I tryed during my freetime to "build" a PDF file where is possible share the setups that we use
on our speedcontrollers.
Is the first time that i try something like that, i hope you like it.
Thank you @Solara / AGNO for their help.
Andrea
Link for to download it: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=WC4EQ0PN
EDIT: now is possible to save the setups as file.
I tryed during my freetime to "build" a PDF file where is possible share the setups that we use
on our speedcontrollers.
Is the first time that i try something like that, i hope you like it.
Thank you @Solara / AGNO for their help.
Andrea
Link for to download it: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=WC4EQ0PN
EDIT: now is possible to save the setups as file.
+++
Precaution
+++
racingnazy:
This is BETA software. Meaning unproven, only internally tested so far, but being provided
semi-publicly to gain some more feedback on the functions and functionality before being
revised/repaired/released to the public as an officially "safe" and "improved" version of
software. So please don't take the following as rude in any way - If renaming/replacing program
files and having to do a little searching for the beta software is beyond your patience or
comfort zone, I would respectfully recommend waiting for the public version of the software.
Again with no disrespect meant - we purposely make it a little difficult to get and load BETA
software. For those with the time and patience to get it, load it up successfully and spend
several practice days dialing it in and all the while providing feedback - you are SP heroes and
I sincerely thank and salute you. You have made the product better for everyone.
This is BETA software. Meaning unproven, only internally tested so far, but being provided
semi-publicly to gain some more feedback on the functions and functionality before being
revised/repaired/released to the public as an officially "safe" and "improved" version of
software. So please don't take the following as rude in any way - If renaming/replacing program
files and having to do a little searching for the beta software is beyond your patience or
comfort zone, I would respectfully recommend waiting for the public version of the software.
Again with no disrespect meant - we purposely make it a little difficult to get and load BETA
software. For those with the time and patience to get it, load it up successfully and spend
several practice days dialing it in and all the while providing feedback - you are SP heroes and
I sincerely thank and salute you. You have made the product better for everyone.
FAQ
+++
I'm bit a confused and having problems finding a balance with the beta software.
Need some help understanding the difference between #4 DRRS (Start Mode) and #15 Supercharger Punch. And how they affect and/or compliment each other? Similarly, #9 AMTS (Timing) and #12 Supercharger Boost Level.
Thx.
Need some help understanding the difference between #4 DRRS (Start Mode) and #15 Supercharger Punch. And how they affect and/or compliment each other? Similarly, #9 AMTS (Timing) and #12 Supercharger Boost Level.
Thx.
With the help from Brandon in MS today, I was able to make some mental connections from a previous call with the SP owner and engineers earlier this morning.
I was told "the software has to be loaded twice for the full effects to take". I initially interpreted that as meaning the new files had to be copied/pasted twice for the new beta software to show up.
After several phone calls with Brandon in MS testing beta software today with no luck, and then an email from him just now saying "I reloaded the software again onto my ESC, and now it seems fine" - I'm putting two and two together. This has now been confirmed from the SP owner and engineers - please "upgrade ESC" TWICE when putting new beta software on your ESC!
So - If you have loaded the new software onto your ESC and observed "little or no difference" to 107/110 - please load it (or reload it, and then) again a 2nd time! (and hold onto your shorts!)
All the feedback we have received (with special thanks to Charlie Barnes and Rich Stidham) so far tells us we are 100% with Tekin on the straight, and eating their lunch in the infield when the settings are optimized. And this is also on a track (in Rich's case) with a 165ft straight!
Also noted from this morning's Skype call - 230 has about 5% more power (both punch and top speed) than 231. PLEASE BE CAREFUL with 230 - many motors have been smoked with too much Supercharger punch/Supercharger boost in testing!
Also confirmed tonight:
AMTS timing is interconnected with the Supercharger function. In Alpha testing (and in general for AMTS) setting 8 gives highest top speed (but lowest punch). Setting 1 give most punch, but lower top speed. Depending on your motor and track, AMTS setting 6 or 7 might be best for you. (lower for lower turn motors, higher for higher turn motors.)
DRRS is still active as well. Generally setting 8 is still best. Lower settings will lower punch and allow higher supercharger and AMTS setings for higher top speed.
I was told "the software has to be loaded twice for the full effects to take". I initially interpreted that as meaning the new files had to be copied/pasted twice for the new beta software to show up.
After several phone calls with Brandon in MS testing beta software today with no luck, and then an email from him just now saying "I reloaded the software again onto my ESC, and now it seems fine" - I'm putting two and two together. This has now been confirmed from the SP owner and engineers - please "upgrade ESC" TWICE when putting new beta software on your ESC!
So - If you have loaded the new software onto your ESC and observed "little or no difference" to 107/110 - please load it (or reload it, and then) again a 2nd time! (and hold onto your shorts!)
All the feedback we have received (with special thanks to Charlie Barnes and Rich Stidham) so far tells us we are 100% with Tekin on the straight, and eating their lunch in the infield when the settings are optimized. And this is also on a track (in Rich's case) with a 165ft straight!
Also noted from this morning's Skype call - 230 has about 5% more power (both punch and top speed) than 231. PLEASE BE CAREFUL with 230 - many motors have been smoked with too much Supercharger punch/Supercharger boost in testing!
Also confirmed tonight:
AMTS timing is interconnected with the Supercharger function. In Alpha testing (and in general for AMTS) setting 8 gives highest top speed (but lowest punch). Setting 1 give most punch, but lower top speed. Depending on your motor and track, AMTS setting 6 or 7 might be best for you. (lower for lower turn motors, higher for higher turn motors.)
DRRS is still active as well. Generally setting 8 is still best. Lower settings will lower punch and allow higher supercharger and AMTS setings for higher top speed.
Last edited by irgo; 03-17-2010 at 07:47 PM.
03-17-2010, 09:21 PM
#3356
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
Shawn....empty your VM out ...gggeeezzzzzz hahaa
Adam your cell is still a POS....hahahaaaaa
Can't wait to try the boost in offroad
[email protected]
[email protected]
Shawn....empty your VM out ...gggeeezzzzzz hahaa
Adam your cell is still a POS....hahahaaaaa
Can't wait to try the boost in offroad
03-17-2010, 10:49 PM
#3358
holy crap irgo!!!
thats the longest quote ever
sorry the cold medicine is kickin in lol
thats the longest quote ever
sorry the cold medicine is kickin in lol
