Tamiya TRF415
i bit the bullet and ordered the kit and a new set of suspension bridges as per your PM
cheers for all the help
would have ordered the TRF416 World Edition
BUT they are all out of stock and the Mrs said NO !!!!
a very firm NO !!!!!
never mind it's my birthday in july
cheers for all the help
would have ordered the TRF416 World Edition
BUT they are all out of stock and the Mrs said NO !!!!
a very firm NO !!!!!
never mind it's my birthday in july
Ed,
I have been reading through and have looked at the shorter arms before but never tried, from what you say is i can just put the short arms on without the other 416 stuff like the hubs and bearings and it works OK?
That might be a cheaper start and get the other stuff later, might just borrow 2 sets off some of the boys who have 416 and give them a try
Thanks for all your info as well you help keep the 415 alive
not that its dead
Chris
I have been reading through and have looked at the shorter arms before but never tried, from what you say is i can just put the short arms on without the other 416 stuff like the hubs and bearings and it works OK?
That might be a cheaper start and get the other stuff later, might just borrow 2 sets off some of the boys who have 416 and give them a try
Thanks for all your info as well you help keep the 415 alive
not that its dead
Chris
Hi
Ed,
I have been reading through and have looked at the shorter arms before but never tried, from what you say is i can just put the short arms on without the other 416 stuff like the hubs and bearings and it works OK?
That might be a cheaper start and get the other stuff later, might just borrow 2 sets off some of the boys who have 416 and give them a try
Thanks for all your info as well you help keep the 415 alive
not that its dead
Chris
I have been reading through and have looked at the shorter arms before but never tried, from what you say is i can just put the short arms on without the other 416 stuff like the hubs and bearings and it works OK?
That might be a cheaper start and get the other stuff later, might just borrow 2 sets off some of the boys who have 416 and give them a try
Thanks for all your info as well you help keep the 415 alive
not that its dead
Chris
Ive converted my car and am using 1C/1C and 1XA/1F rear.
Might catch ya in Bendigo for the VIC titles
Mark Miller
cheers mark grabed the arms today and ill see what blocks ill have sorry wont be making it to vic but wanted to get that extra edge in the 415
It is an awsome car
It is an awsome car
Yep
i bit the bullet and ordered the kit and a new set of suspension bridges as per your PM
cheers for all the help
would have ordered the TRF416 World Edition
BUT they are all out of stock and the Mrs said NO !!!!
a very firm NO !!!!!
never mind it's my birthday in july
cheers for all the help
would have ordered the TRF416 World Edition
BUT they are all out of stock and the Mrs said NO !!!!
a very firm NO !!!!!
never mind it's my birthday in july
Forgot to say you need slightly longer front axles to go with the 416 knuckles, I had a new pair from a TA04 that fit , part # TA 9804380
let me know how it all goes .
Mark M (south australia)
Tech Initiate
@penmark67:
hi mark, i want to ask question on your bulkhead mod..
you explained that you removed 1 mm of the bottom of motor mount.
do you also cut the center post (the "T" bar) or only remove the screw?
and how about cutting the bulkhead into 2 parts , so the front part that holds the motor is separated from the rear one that holds the diff (similar to the 416's).
it will give more flex, but is it worth to do? (personally i'll think many times before doing that )
thanks.
hi mark, i want to ask question on your bulkhead mod..
you explained that you removed 1 mm of the bottom of motor mount.
do you also cut the center post (the "T" bar) or only remove the screw?
and how about cutting the bulkhead into 2 parts , so the front part that holds the motor is separated from the rear one that holds the diff (similar to the 416's).
it will give more flex, but is it worth to do? (personally i'll think many times before doing that )
thanks.
@penmark67:
hi mark, i want to ask question on your bulkhead mod..
you explained that you removed 1 mm of the bottom of motor mount.
do you also cut the center post (the "T" bar) or only remove the screw?
and how about cutting the bulkhead into 2 parts , so the front part that holds the motor is separated from the rear one that holds the diff (similar to the 416's).
it will give more flex, but is it worth to do? (personally i'll think many times before doing that )
thanks.
hi mark, i want to ask question on your bulkhead mod..
you explained that you removed 1 mm of the bottom of motor mount.
do you also cut the center post (the "T" bar) or only remove the screw?
and how about cutting the bulkhead into 2 parts , so the front part that holds the motor is separated from the rear one that holds the diff (similar to the 416's).
it will give more flex, but is it worth to do? (personally i'll think many times before doing that )
thanks.
All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...
To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
Mark,
You said
Ive converted my car and am using 1C/1C and 1XA/1F rear.
I currently run
FRONT
1a
1xb
= -1.5
REAR
1xb
1c
=2.5
will i go up to?
FRONT
1b
1xa
=-1.5
REAR
1xa
1d
=2.5
You said
Ive converted my car and am using 1C/1C and 1XA/1F rear.
I currently run
FRONT
1a
1xb
= -1.5
REAR
1xb
1c
=2.5
will i go up to?
FRONT
1b
1xa
=-1.5
REAR
1xa
1d
=2.5
Tech Initiate
No you don't cut the T-bar. It remains in place. The bulk-head piece you cut into two is the upper cross brace that connects the left & right bulk-heads through the rear belt. It's on top and looks like a heat-sink. You also remove the beam down inside between the two rear bulk-heads.
All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...
To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...
To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
i've cut the upper brace and remove the beam long time ago.
just thinking about cutting the T bar that connects to the lower deck (so it will only connect left and right bulkhead, no longer standing on the lower deck) to increase flex.
btw.. thanks 94eq!
>>>>>>
No you don't cut the T-bar. It remains in place. The bulk-head piece you cut into two is the upper cross brace that connects the left & right bulk-heads through the rear belt. It's on top and looks like a heat-sink. You also remove the beam down inside between the two rear bulk-heads.
All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...
To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...
To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
Yes it really is worth it especially on our low grip tracks.
Mark
Tech Initiate
still waiting for the arms and bridges GRR
Internial ratio change pro and cons
Hy there!
I own an MSXXMRE07, with the kit puleys and the internal ration of 2,25
Now i have al the part i need to change it form 2,25 to 2,0:
TRF501X/416 Puleys 18T
HB front belt 169T
Xray rear belt
Now my question, because i have not much tracktime to test:
Is it always a benefit to lower the internial ratio? or depends it on wich class you run (mod or stock)
I run the car in 9,5BL 5cell/13,5BL LIPO classes.
Thanks in advance for some answers.
Greetings Blueman
I own an MSXXMRE07, with the kit puleys and the internal ration of 2,25
Now i have al the part i need to change it form 2,25 to 2,0:
TRF501X/416 Puleys 18T
HB front belt 169T
Xray rear belt
Now my question, because i have not much tracktime to test:
Is it always a benefit to lower the internial ratio? or depends it on wich class you run (mod or stock)
I run the car in 9,5BL 5cell/13,5BL LIPO classes.
Thanks in advance for some answers.
Greetings Blueman
The only noticable difference will be gearing options.
Otherwise I think lighter would be better. Of course more belt wrap on larger pullies is helpful allowing to run belts a little looser...
Otherwise I think lighter would be better. Of course more belt wrap on larger pullies is helpful allowing to run belts a little looser...