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Old 04-16-2009, 01:54 PM   #20446
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i bit the bullet and ordered the kit and a new set of suspension bridges as per your PM

cheers for all the help

would have ordered the TRF416 World Edition

BUT they are all out of stock and the Mrs said NO !!!!

a very firm NO !!!!!



never mind it's my birthday in july
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:58 PM   #20447
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Ed,

I have been reading through and have looked at the shorter arms before but never tried, from what you say is i can just put the short arms on without the other 416 stuff like the hubs and bearings and it works OK?

That might be a cheaper start and get the other stuff later, might just borrow 2 sets off some of the boys who have 416 and give them a try

Thanks for all your info as well you help keep the 415 alive

not that its dead

Chris
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Old 04-17-2009, 05:50 AM   #20448
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Ed,

I have been reading through and have looked at the shorter arms before but never tried, from what you say is i can just put the short arms on without the other 416 stuff like the hubs and bearings and it works OK?

That might be a cheaper start and get the other stuff later, might just borrow 2 sets off some of the boys who have 416 and give them a try

Thanks for all your info as well you help keep the 415 alive

not that its dead

Chris
Hi Chris , the 415 is certainly not dead , dont forget that you will need to use the wider suspension blocks to keep the correct width.
Ive converted my car and am using 1C/1C and 1XA/1F rear.
Might catch ya in Bendigo for the VIC titles

Mark Miller
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:00 AM   #20449
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cheers mark grabed the arms today and ill see what blocks ill have sorry wont be making it to vic but wanted to get that extra edge in the 415


It is an awsome car
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Old 04-17-2009, 06:01 AM   #20450
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i bit the bullet and ordered the kit and a new set of suspension bridges as per your PM

cheers for all the help

would have ordered the TRF416 World Edition

BUT they are all out of stock and the Mrs said NO !!!!

a very firm NO !!!!!



never mind it's my birthday in july
Hi Phil, yeah im saving and having a 1/12 scale sell off to fund my WE purchase , hopefully before our state titles in September

Forgot to say you need slightly longer front axles to go with the 416 knuckles, I had a new pair from a TA04 that fit , part # TA 9804380

let me know how it all goes .

Mark M (south australia)
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Old 04-18-2009, 05:45 AM   #20451
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@penmark67:
hi mark, i want to ask question on your bulkhead mod..
you explained that you removed 1 mm of the bottom of motor mount.
do you also cut the center post (the "T" bar) or only remove the screw?

and how about cutting the bulkhead into 2 parts , so the front part that holds the motor is separated from the rear one that holds the diff (similar to the 416's).
it will give more flex, but is it worth to do? (personally i'll think many times before doing that )

thanks.
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Old 04-18-2009, 02:34 PM   #20452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r_s View Post
@penmark67:
hi mark, i want to ask question on your bulkhead mod..
you explained that you removed 1 mm of the bottom of motor mount.
do you also cut the center post (the "T" bar) or only remove the screw?

and how about cutting the bulkhead into 2 parts , so the front part that holds the motor is separated from the rear one that holds the diff (similar to the 416's).
it will give more flex, but is it worth to do? (personally i'll think many times before doing that )

thanks.
No you don't cut the T-bar. It remains in place. The bulk-head piece you cut into two is the upper cross brace that connects the left & right bulk-heads through the rear belt. It's on top and looks like a heat-sink. You also remove the beam down inside between the two rear bulk-heads.

All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...

To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
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Old 04-18-2009, 10:42 PM   #20453
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Mark,

You said
Ive converted my car and am using 1C/1C and 1XA/1F rear.

I currently run
FRONT
1a
1xb
= -1.5

REAR
1xb
1c
=2.5

will i go up to?

FRONT
1b
1xa
=-1.5

REAR
1xa
1d
=2.5
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:24 AM   #20454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
No you don't cut the T-bar. It remains in place. The bulk-head piece you cut into two is the upper cross brace that connects the left & right bulk-heads through the rear belt. It's on top and looks like a heat-sink. You also remove the beam down inside between the two rear bulk-heads.

All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...

To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
oh.. i didn't notice that msxx mre has slightly different motor mount bulkhead. so basically we copy it on standard bulkhead.
i've cut the upper brace and remove the beam long time ago.
just thinking about cutting the T bar that connects to the lower deck (so it will only connect left and right bulkhead, no longer standing on the lower deck) to increase flex.
btw.. thanks 94eq!
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:04 AM   #20455
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Default >>>>>>

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
No you don't cut the T-bar. It remains in place. The bulk-head piece you cut into two is the upper cross brace that connects the left & right bulk-heads through the rear belt. It's on top and looks like a heat-sink. You also remove the beam down inside between the two rear bulk-heads.

All thees mods can be found on the Marc Rheinard MSXX 2007 car. Except for some reason they still install the 6th motor mount screw with a 1mm shim. I can't seem to figure out why...

To see the manual for this car, go to the following link and click on "Product Manual" in the upper right corner:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104
Yep like 94eg say's and.......I also milled 1mm from the bottom edge of the motor mount and 1mm from the centre mount and removed the screw.

Yes it really is worth it especially on our low grip tracks.

Mark
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:26 AM   #20456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penmark67 View Post
Yep like 94eg say's and.......I also milled 1mm from the bottom edge of the motor mount and 1mm from the centre mount and removed the screw.

Yes it really is worth it especially on our low grip tracks.

Mark
that's what i really need to know. thanks mark!
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:17 AM   #20457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisk View Post
Mark,

You said
Ive converted my car and am using 1C/1C and 1XA/1F rear.

I currently run
FRONT
1a
1xb
= -1.5

REAR
1xb
1c
=2.5

will i go up to?

FRONT
1b
1xa
=-1.5

REAR
1xa
1d
=2.5
Chris YGPM
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:43 AM   #20458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by penmark67 View Post
Yep like 94eg say's and.......I also milled 1mm from the bottom edge of the motor mount and 1mm from the centre mount and removed the screw.

Yes it really is worth it especially on our low grip tracks.

Mark
can you take a piccy of the 1mm off the centre mount mod you did

still waiting for the arms and bridges GRR
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:45 AM   #20459
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Default Internial ratio change pro and cons

Hy there!

I own an MSXXMRE07, with the kit puleys and the internal ration of 2,25

Now i have al the part i need to change it form 2,25 to 2,0:

TRF501X/416 Puleys 18T
HB front belt 169T
Xray rear belt

Now my question, because i have not much tracktime to test:

Is it always a benefit to lower the internial ratio? or depends it on wich class you run (mod or stock)
I run the car in 9,5BL 5cell/13,5BL LIPO classes.

Thanks in advance for some answers.

Greetings Blueman
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:28 AM   #20460
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The only noticable difference will be gearing options.

Otherwise I think lighter would be better. Of course more belt wrap on larger pullies is helpful allowing to run belts a little looser...
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