HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

...humm ...hold on ...cut ..cut ..open ..crinkle ...crinkle looks like 1A, 1D, 1XB, 1B (now mind you I don't know what this means as this is my 1st Tamiya, but that's what the blocks say).

...I didn't even realize this, but DHL is 1/2 mile from my office, so I just got back from picking up the kit, it really did take 1 day to get from Hong Kong to me here in Roseville ...insane!!!

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

cheers Harsh.

Right... suspension blocks. do two things.
1) allow setting of toe in
2) allow setting of track width

goes (from widest to narrowest)

1E, 1D, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1X, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD

there is 0.5deg of toe difference between each block.

For example on the MRE,

1) with B/A on the front (B the front block, A the rear) there is 0.5deg of toe-OUT
On the rear, with XB/D (XB the front, D the rear) that is 3deg of toe-IN

2) For track width change....
XB/D and XB/B both give 3deg of toe-in (on the rear), but the XB/B combination results in a narrower rear track.

Hope that explains it There is a chart on my website with all the combinations of blocks.

HiH
Ed

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Only if you run Jaco tires. You don't need to mod anything for Parma tires. I think I posted this on page 495 near the bottom. Plus I posted some pics up earlier in the year or sometime last year of the HPI knuckle conversion I did. But I used the pro3/4 MIP CVD axles with RDX steel CVD bones. But back then I couldn't get the Cyclone axles to use my Tamiya bones...

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Here is one of my posts. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...es#post2144234

Here is the page with some pics I posted. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...es#post2087602

And yet another post... and a hint about the pro4 suspension. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...es#post2078544

bradley70

Ed, Thank you for the explanation regarding toe plates etc. Building my first set of Tamiya shocks for my 415, have a question regarding rebound!! I have read on a few different set up sheets 3 to 4mm or rebound I can only seem to get full rebound with mine, do you bleed the shocks through the bottom to get the desired rebound? Hope that made sense. Thanks!!

Brian Anthony

iTrader: (9)

Thanks guys. This is my first Tamiya since I got a MO1 when they first came out.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

If you are talking about rebound stroke, that refers to droop. Not shock rebound. I wouldn't worry if they rebound all the way. Mine does too. Just besure there is no air bubbles in the oil. etc etc.

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

OK, so I'm happily building away my MRE when all off a sudden

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

I have two trillion rear arms. I've even started throwing them out because all I need is the front arms.

Damn you Tamiya, just sell front arms only packs!

XrayFK

iTrader: (1)

That sucks, should have used titanium studs. I think the best you can try is to make a slot in it so you can use a screwdriver to unscrew it, that way you can avoid stripping out the hole. Or just use another hole.

Juan Aveytia

See what happens when you don't let me use your car for the tamiya nat's.LOL Just kidding. Call me tommorrow, I will see if I've got the part for you.

drew85

iTrader: (3)

Where are you guys get the car, I have not seen them anywhere but ebay?

Ben.C

That sucked....

Ben.C

Bought it off my local distributor...

Looks sweettt..........

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

you can try to used 2.5mm drill bit it drill the alum out. i had try it before on my TA05 it works. hope this help you.