Tamiya TRF415
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Csaari77
Does anyone know what the dimensions are for the bearings on the belt stabilizer on the msx? I ran mine for the first time yesterday, and the screw that holds the bearings backed out. I'm going to run the car in the TCS race in Memphis this weekend and need to get them replaced ASAP.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
I think all cars do it to some degree, except for the JRX-S. Losi have produced a “double knuckle” front CVD to eliminate this vibration, and it works very well. The only side effect from this is that there is another ‘joint’ in the driveline that can produce slop. But I can live with that if it’s getting rid of this vibration .
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Guys, I have a setup question for you guys. How would I be able to get more high speed steering without making the car steer too much in slower speeds?? I have got my car going basically how I would like it in some of the slower stuff at this particular track in question, but there is quite a bit of initial understeer (causing me to use the brakes a lot to begin rotating the car properly) as well as high speed understeer. A trait of the track is that it appears to have quite low forward traction, so when putting on the power, the rear end tends to wander and step out. To counter that I have got the car to be pretty good in the tight stuff, but not so great on the initial turn in particularly.
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Removing the Anti-Squat should make the car steer more at high speed!!
I have never liked running anti-squat at all and 1mm is allot!!
Cheers,
Eirik
I have never liked running anti-squat at all and 1mm is allot!!
Cheers,
Eirik
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Guys, I have a setup question for you guys. How would I be able to get more high speed steering without making the car steer too much in slower speeds?? I have got my car going basically how I would like it in some of the slower stuff at this particular track in question, but there is quite a bit of initial understeer (causing me to use the brakes a lot to begin rotating the car properly) as well as high speed understeer. A trait of the track is that it appears to have quite low forward traction, so when putting on the power, the rear end tends to wander and step out. To counter that I have got the car to be pretty good in the tight stuff, but not so great on the initial turn in particularly.
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Try switching your droop settings......that is if you are measuring the up travel like most people do. I f you are using a droop gauge leave it alone. I also think you might want to increase your shock oil and use 1 hole front & 2 hole rear, try 60 weight oil. You could always try the new Dodge Stratus or the Pontiac 6. I tried the Pontiac and had to change the car to get my rear traction back! That's how much more it steers...............
Paul.........
Anti-squat can be changed with those shims under the front mounts? LIke the stock msx has I think 1 mm under the rear front and none in the front front??So taking out that shim would give me highspeed steering?
Originally Posted by Eirik
Removing the Anti-Squat should make the car steer more at high speed!!
I have never liked running anti-squat at all and 1mm is allot!!
Cheers,
Eirik
I have never liked running anti-squat at all and 1mm is allot!!
Cheers,
Eirik
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I dont see how antisquat is a bad thing. I recently started trying it instead of messing with my droop settings and found it to be just as effective, but it didn't change the feel of the car - other the giving me more on power steering. (which is what you should be looking for if your running it)
I have no problems with turn in at all even in the high speed sweeper at the end of our straight.
I have no problems with turn in at all even in the high speed sweeper at the end of our straight.
Originally Posted by drew85
Anti-squat can be changed with those shims under the front mounts? LIke the stock msx has I think 1 mm under the rear front and none in the front front??So taking out that shim would give me highspeed steering?
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Guys, I have a setup question for you guys. How would I be able to get more high speed steering without making the car steer too much in slower speeds?? I have got my car going basically how I would like it in some of the slower stuff at this particular track in question, but there is quite a bit of initial understeer (causing me to use the brakes a lot to begin rotating the car properly) as well as high speed understeer. A trait of the track is that it appears to have quite low forward traction, so when putting on the power, the rear end tends to wander and step out. To counter that I have got the car to be pretty good in the tight stuff, but not so great on the initial turn in particularly.
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
I would not say it's a bad thing, but I never had any luck with antisquat.
It made the rear end feel very stiff, it would not carry as much cornerspeed and laptimes where slower.
This was at my track, maybe at another track it could be the other way around.....
It made the rear end feel very stiff, it would not carry as much cornerspeed and laptimes where slower.
This was at my track, maybe at another track it could be the other way around.....
Eirik, I found anti squat good when you are struggling to put the power down.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Guys, I have a setup question for you guys. How would I be able to get more high speed steering without making the car steer too much in slower speeds?? I have got my car going basically how I would like it in some of the slower stuff at this particular track in question, but there is quite a bit of initial understeer (causing me to use the brakes a lot to begin rotating the car properly) as well as high speed understeer. A trait of the track is that it appears to have quite low forward traction, so when putting on the power, the rear end tends to wander and step out. To counter that I have got the car to be pretty good in the tight stuff, but not so great on the initial turn in particularly.
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Has anyone got any particular suggestions that I could try? I still have to write my setup down, but basically I have:
F R
Oil: 40/40
Piston: 3/3
Springs: Yellow/Yellow
Sway Bars: None
Camber: 1/1
Caster: 4deg
Front Drive: Oneway
Center Drive: Oneway
1mm Antisquat
2deg rear toe
0deg front toe
Shock Angle: medium angle on front/fairly upright on the rear
Motor: DC Motorsports Modified
Droop: 5mm front/2mm rear
Tyres: CS27
Body: Mazda 6
Which hinge pin suspension blocks are you using?
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Eirik, I found anti squat good when you are struggling to put the power down.
The more antisquat you have, the more the front end will be lifting under acceleration! Very good for 2wd cars, but on a 4wd it will "only" take away front grip. This will give the feeling of having more rear traction, but you actually only have less steering and less front drive (on power)
This is how I feelt anyway after testing it at last years Euros track in Denmark.
If I have problems with putting the power down I will increase rear toe-inn and/or move the shocks out on the tower as this will give more forward traction!
This is how I feelt anyway after testing it at last years Euros track in Denmark.
If I have problems with putting the power down I will increase rear toe-inn and/or move the shocks out on the tower as this will give more forward traction!