Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Robert looked undergeared, or he needs to lighten up on the springs a bit.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys, just thouhgt I'd wish you all a happy christmas. You've all been a great help to me over the past few months, learning the 415, and hopefully some of the stuff I've posted has been useful too.

Have a good one, and I hope santa brings all you want...

Regards
Ed

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I have the original 415 with old suspension with no problems with 28mm tire rubbing except the front upper kingpin. Evo IV king pin is too short to run with stock 415 castor block (4 degree). But you may can get away with in it if you use a TA04Pro front castor block (6degree?) since the 04Pro block has a thinner upper tab for the kingpin to go through. EvoIV upper tab is 4mm. TA04Pro is 3.8/9mm. The 414/EvoIII/415 tab is 4.5mm. The EvoIV upper kingpin is shorter than the 415 kingpin. So if you used them, they would not seat all the way in properly.

As for LW suspension, I used Pro4 front spindles. They clear 28mm foam tires. And they fit right onto the castor blocks with a .7mm shim under them. You will however need bearings for the Pro4 spindles. And you would need to use either the stock original 415 front axles with shims... or the Square Ti Pro4 new style axles that will work with EvoIV bones.

Raul, let us know if the CVDs work. I've been toying with the idea too. But won't need them til Asphalt season if I decide to run with a spool. I know I could use the Pro4 front spindle so I'd have a CVD type axle to run up front. But the Pro4/TC3 axle uses a dogbone (same dogbone) that has a thicker pin at the end of the bone. There-fore the bone/pin won't fit into the outdrive slots without enlargening the slot.

Rayspeed (Yokomo) has a CVD dogbone with a thin pin that would fit. But the dogbone is too short. However, it might work with old style suspension.. but not with LW.

Anyways, I'm still working on this. But it's no rush til asphalt season.

Oh, and for those who want a lighter bone for the front instead of the steel ones.. just use the Square Ti bones for either the old style or new style suspensions. Thats what I have.

buboy28

ok thanks a lot now will have to order it after christmas

buboy28

thanks will order it after christmas

razzo

There are 3 c-hubs (castor blocks) you can use, 414/415 (these are ones with holes for upper tie-rod, 4 degrees), original TA04 blocks (no tie-rod mount, 6 degrees) and TA04 optional blocks (2 degree, with tie-rod mount)

I've been running for past 2 months on foams, with original suspension. Using Evo4 king pins. With little drill work, Evo4 king pins work fine, just tap the hole from top little wider, about 1mm deep. It'll let the king pin sit lower, and screw all the way into the knuckle.

Here's biggest thing with clearance with front king pins.. it all depends which foam brand you use! With TRC, you'll have to run Evo4 king pin mod, with open end ball cup, or shaved ball cup. With Parma, you can use original king pin, with shaved ball cup. With Jaco, you can use original king pin, with almost nothing shaved from the ball cup. New 2004 Jaco's rims are 2mm larger in inner diameter compared to TRC, and about 1mm wider then Parma. These are all with 28mm rims. Another place where 28mm rims will rub is rear sway bars, but if you use narrower suspension blocks to narrow the car in, you can use 1.5mm of shims to bring the car back out to 190mm with 28mm foams, and get the rear wheels to clear the swaybar mount.

Last thing.. all these 28mm foams are NOT 28mm wide out of the package! Last batch of Jaco I got are over 29mm wide!, TRC is little under 28mm, and Parma's been usually right on at 28mm.

Different brand wheels rubbed at different places on my car, so I just said hell with it, and sticking with Parma foam/wheels. I'll post a pic later, but with parma foams, I can run rear sway bar, and using Evo4 king pin with open ball cup, and no clearance issues what so ever.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I used Parma on mine as well. But I'm goin back to Jaco's so I can use Double Pink for rear and Double Pink/Orange for fronts. This is with 19t class. For stock.. I'd stick with the Purple tires.

Hey Razzo... what's the part number on the 2deg caster blocks? I know the 6degree blocks are No. 50870.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I just ordered some from Speedtech, didnt see em on the site but Steve said he had them, you might contact him for some.

razzo

Kilruf, part # for 2 degree blocks are 53458 (Racing uprights set) only down side, it's a SET, so comes with torque rods, and it's around $15!

How are your double pink/orange, double pink Jacos holding up? I'm done with Jaco POS!! every double pink set I have (all 8 pairs!), they've unglued from the rim, all on their own, they just start peeling away from the rim after about 2 runs. Never had any Magenta (same as DP) TRC or Parma do that. Anythig hotter then stock motor, Cyan/Magenta combo seems to be way to go.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I usually dont run swaybars, but I'm trying to go with a swaybar setup on this car right now, just having a hell of a time trying to get them balanced left to right. I sanded down the mounts to make them snug on the swaybar, and I put collets on the inside of the bar to hold it centered, but no luck. Anything else anyone can suggest?

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Randy, that brings up a good point because when I was mounting the swaybars and testing them, it seemed to me that they wouldn't be too effective. Compressing one arm all the way hardly yielded any compression of the opposite arm. I don't know if I'm just use to nitro racing or what cause it seems like the sway bars hardly do a thing in respect of "anti-roll".

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I've had problems in the past with Jaco's (sometimes but not always)... but I guess it depends on where you start the tires. I start mine at 58mm and go from there. If I started them at 60mm.. then I'd sometimes chuck or separate them. What's Parma's equivalent to Double Pink and Double Pink/Orange?

Razzo, are you sure those are 2degree sets? I think those were 4degree. The package said 6degree. But the stock TA04 had 2degree kickup. So the blocks are actually 4degree. I have a set of them as well 53458. The 6degree TA04 Pro block were to get 8degree on the Pro since the Pro had 2degree kickup.

For swaybars, I don't really run them as well unless if it's high traction track like carpet. Then I'll run a front swaybar.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I find the stock mounts to be useless, technically if a swaybar is working properly, if you lift one arm, it should lift the other just about the same amount, the only thing that would be holding the other one back would be gravity, this of coarse isn't true when you put shocks on the arm, but you get the idea. I spent about an hour on the rear swaybar trying to perfect it, and I got it really close. Take the little plastic swaybar mounts and file them down until there is literally 0 slop on the bar when it is mounted to the bulkheads. Then get gas car throttle linkage collets and clamp them on the swaybar inside the bulkheads to get rid of side-side slop.

I took my time on this because I wanted to get it perfect, but Patrick showed me a trick that can be useful if your at the track and dont have time. Do the trick with the collets on the inside of the bulkheads, then take a plastic bag (like a parts bag or something) and clamp pieces between the swaybar mount and bulkhead, letting the swaybar rest on them instead of the bulkhead itself. This will remove a lot of slop and get more functionality from the swaybar.

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Randy,

What spur/pinion and or final ratio have you been using at socal(for what motor as well please)? I am gonna be there on tuesday night and would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Blake

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I run a 25/104 which is I believe a 9.06/1 ratio, but dont remember for sure. I run Team Br00d V2 based 6x1 motors at SoCal.