3LikesTamiya TRF415
12-31-2004, 06:44 AM
#6046
I use the one made by Atlas. It is really nothing special. Just adhesive thick vinyl. It can easily be done with a circle cutter. It works great so far. I will post the measurements if someone's interested.
12-31-2004, 06:47 AM
#6047
o wondered what they were.. knew it couldnt be much. i have been toying around with testing some of the Xray covers.
ill get my Xray back in a couple weeks (on loan to a buddy running at the Novak race!), and see if they adapt.
they have the nicest system to keep the diffs clean!
ill get my Xray back in a couple weeks (on loan to a buddy running at the Novak race!), and see if they adapt.
they have the nicest system to keep the diffs clean!
12-31-2004, 08:01 AM
#6048
hey fourty6. Have you got those measurements for the diff covers?, id like to make some as rebuilding my diff every few runs is begining to get anoying. Cheers Phil C.
12-31-2004, 08:04 AM
#6049
Originally posted by Arun
I put the shield on both my front and rear diffs. The plastic that I used is the "plastruct" stuff that you can find in hobby stores, and I used shoe-goo to glue them to the outdrives.
We considered the 414 blocks at first, but, as far as we knew, they did not make an A bridge. I never had a 414, so correct me if I'm wrong.
I put the shield on both my front and rear diffs. The plastic that I used is the "plastruct" stuff that you can find in hobby stores, and I used shoe-goo to glue them to the outdrives.
We considered the 414 blocks at first, but, as far as we knew, they did not make an A bridge. I never had a 414, so correct me if I'm wrong.
I haven't run the 414 blocks either, So I don't know if they wokr or not, just going on what I read herre. I might have to get a set and give them a try.....
Regards
Ed
12-31-2004, 08:19 AM
#6050
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Rod, did you use shims to keep the diff/front one way from moving laterally? I notice there is alot of slop side to side.
Rod, did you use shims to keep the diff/front one way from moving laterally? I notice there is alot of slop side to side.
Randy, I think Neil would have a tough time making it over to socal since he's now located in Texas
Difuser, whatever you do, don't bring rain with you when you come to "sunny" California...It's been raining off and on for the past week
I look forward to running with ya. Bring some 7-8 Turns and a 19Turn in case we all wuss out, since traction may be an issue because of said rain.I hope you all have a very Happy New Year's celebration and be safe! Approximately t-minus 12 hours til brain cell oblideration
12-31-2004, 08:21 AM
#6051
Try this: best thing that I've found to reduce the number of times you have to rebuild your diff is to keep a small compressor with you or a can of compressed air at the track. Just blow off the fuzz after each run. If you allow the fuzz to accumlate it gets worse.
I was never convinced that dust covers really work. Kind of like dust sheild on ball bearings. For some reason dirt always seems to find a way into the bearings and gets trapped. I would think te smae would happen on diff covers?
If you diff feels gritty, try relubing the small thrust balls first.
Ran, my 415 last night, switching to Parma Cyan/Maganta's vs. Plaid/Purple. The only change I made. Both set-ups yield almost the same fastest lap, but the Cyan/Magenta set-up was a lot more consistant.
Then switch springs from Tamiya Purple/Gray to ASC Purple/Copper with the Cyan/Magenta. Still had plenty of steering, but the car was not as twitchy. Makes sense as the stiff springs helped smooth out the car. Everythig else was basically stock set-up from the instruction books.
Except for:
front A block
Low friction belts
I was never convinced that dust covers really work. Kind of like dust sheild on ball bearings. For some reason dirt always seems to find a way into the bearings and gets trapped. I would think te smae would happen on diff covers?
If you diff feels gritty, try relubing the small thrust balls first.
Ran, my 415 last night, switching to Parma Cyan/Maganta's vs. Plaid/Purple. The only change I made. Both set-ups yield almost the same fastest lap, but the Cyan/Magenta set-up was a lot more consistant.
Then switch springs from Tamiya Purple/Gray to ASC Purple/Copper with the Cyan/Magenta. Still had plenty of steering, but the car was not as twitchy. Makes sense as the stiff springs helped smooth out the car. Everythig else was basically stock set-up from the instruction books.
Except for:
front A block
Low friction belts
12-31-2004, 08:31 AM
#6052
Originally posted by rtypec
Neil, I don't use shims on the 10x15 parts. I let them find their own centers hehe.
Randy, I think Neil would have a tough time making it over to socal since he's now located in Texas
Difuser, whatever you do, don't bring rain with you when you come to "sunny" California...It's been raining off and on for the past week I look forward to running with ya. Bring some 7-8 Turns and a 19Turn in case we all wuss out, since traction may be an issue because of said rain.
I hope you all have a very Happy New Year's celebration and be safe! Approximately t-minus 12 hours til brain cell oblideration
Neil, I don't use shims on the 10x15 parts. I let them find their own centers hehe.
Randy, I think Neil would have a tough time making it over to socal since he's now located in Texas
Difuser, whatever you do, don't bring rain with you when you come to "sunny" California...It's been raining off and on for the past week
I look forward to running with ya. Bring some 7-8 Turns and a 19Turn in case we all wuss out, since traction may be an issue because of said rain.I hope you all have a very Happy New Year's celebration and be safe! Approximately t-minus 12 hours til brain cell oblideration
How bout you Rodzilla, got it in ya to bring out the low turn motor to SoCal next Tuesday?
12-31-2004, 08:48 AM
#6053
Last nights race
camber front -2
camber rear -2
front blocks A/A
Ass. purple
yellow sway
evo 4 king pin
belt tensioner removed
diff in the front
center layshaft
rear toe-in 1.5
sway bar blue
rear blocks A/B
Ass. copper
speedmind 45 front
speedmind 36 rear
everything else is stock
camber rear -2
front blocks A/A
Ass. purple
yellow sway
evo 4 king pin
belt tensioner removed
diff in the front
center layshaft
rear toe-in 1.5
sway bar blue
rear blocks A/B
Ass. copper
speedmind 45 front
speedmind 36 rear
everything else is stock
12-31-2004, 08:58 AM
#6054
Originally posted by Carl Giordano
Try this: best thing that I've found to reduce the number of times you have to rebuild your diff is to keep a small compressor with you or a can of compressed air at the track. Just blow off the fuzz after each run. If you allow the fuzz to accumlate it gets worse.
I was never convinced that dust covers really work. Kind of like dust sheild on ball bearings. For some reason dirt always seems to find a way into the bearings and gets trapped. I would think te smae would happen on diff covers?
If you diff feels gritty, try relubing the small thrust balls first.
Ran, my 415 last night, switching to Parma Cyan/Maganta's vs. Plaid/Purple. The only change I made. Both set-ups yield almost the same fastest lap, but the Cyan/Magenta set-up was a lot more consistant.
Then switch springs from Tamiya Purple/Gray to ASC Purple/Copper with the Cyan/Magenta. Still had plenty of steering, but the car was not as twitchy. Makes sense as the stiff springs helped smooth out the car. Everythig else was basically stock set-up from the instruction books.
Except for:
front A block
Low friction belts
Try this: best thing that I've found to reduce the number of times you have to rebuild your diff is to keep a small compressor with you or a can of compressed air at the track. Just blow off the fuzz after each run. If you allow the fuzz to accumlate it gets worse.
I was never convinced that dust covers really work. Kind of like dust sheild on ball bearings. For some reason dirt always seems to find a way into the bearings and gets trapped. I would think te smae would happen on diff covers?
If you diff feels gritty, try relubing the small thrust balls first.
Ran, my 415 last night, switching to Parma Cyan/Maganta's vs. Plaid/Purple. The only change I made. Both set-ups yield almost the same fastest lap, but the Cyan/Magenta set-up was a lot more consistant.
Then switch springs from Tamiya Purple/Gray to ASC Purple/Copper with the Cyan/Magenta. Still had plenty of steering, but the car was not as twitchy. Makes sense as the stiff springs helped smooth out the car. Everythig else was basically stock set-up from the instruction books.
Except for:
front A block
Low friction belts
12-31-2004, 09:00 AM
#6056
Re: Last nights race
Originally posted by dawgmeat
camber front -2
camber rear -2
front blocks A/A
Ass. purple
yellow sway
evo 4 king pin
belt tensioner removed
diff in the front
center layshaft
rear toe-in 1.5
sway bar blue
rear blocks A/B
Ass. copper
speedmind 45 front
speedmind 36 rear
everything else is stock
camber front -2
camber rear -2
front blocks A/A
Ass. purple
yellow sway
evo 4 king pin
belt tensioner removed
diff in the front
center layshaft
rear toe-in 1.5
sway bar blue
rear blocks A/B
Ass. copper
speedmind 45 front
speedmind 36 rear
everything else is stock
12-31-2004, 09:03 AM
#6059
keep the photos coming Dawg. For those of you outside the NY area, that's Chris R. the Region 1 Director.
Our local track has a small grill on site. They actually name a sandwich after Chris. Its called the "Raffaelli". Its really good. Chris used to weight in around 150, see what racing at a track with food will do to ya.
Our local track has a small grill on site. They actually name a sandwich after Chris. Its called the "Raffaelli". Its really good. Chris used to weight in around 150, see what racing at a track with food will do to ya.
