R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-24-2004, 06:06 PM   #5896
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Hebiki
hey dude... whats up? yah that was me. talk to jeff.. he can hook you up with some good motors. or you can try the EA Motorsports monster stock. thats the one i was using and same with Robert Morris.
Robert looked undergeared, or he needs to lighten up on the springs a bit.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 06:07 PM   #5897
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Happy Christmas

Hey guys, just thouhgt I'd wish you all a happy christmas. You've all been a great help to me over the past few months, learning the 415, and hopefully some of the stuff I've posted has been useful too.

Have a good one, and I hope santa brings all you want...

Regards
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 06:09 PM   #5898
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,443
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I have the original 415 with old suspension with no problems with 28mm tire rubbing except the front upper kingpin. Evo IV king pin is too short to run with stock 415 castor block (4 degree). But you may can get away with in it if you use a TA04Pro front castor block (6degree?) since the 04Pro block has a thinner upper tab for the kingpin to go through. EvoIV upper tab is 4mm. TA04Pro is 3.8/9mm. The 414/EvoIII/415 tab is 4.5mm. The EvoIV upper kingpin is shorter than the 415 kingpin. So if you used them, they would not seat all the way in properly.

As for LW suspension, I used Pro4 front spindles. They clear 28mm foam tires. And they fit right onto the castor blocks with a .7mm shim under them. You will however need bearings for the Pro4 spindles. And you would need to use either the stock original 415 front axles with shims... or the Square Ti Pro4 new style axles that will work with EvoIV bones.

Raul, let us know if the CVDs work. I've been toying with the idea too. But won't need them til Asphalt season if I decide to run with a spool. I know I could use the Pro4 front spindle so I'd have a CVD type axle to run up front. But the Pro4/TC3 axle uses a dogbone (same dogbone) that has a thicker pin at the end of the bone. There-fore the bone/pin won't fit into the outdrive slots without enlargening the slot.

Rayspeed (Yokomo) has a CVD dogbone with a thin pin that would fit. But the dogbone is too short. However, it might work with old style suspension.. but not with LW.

Anyways, I'm still working on this. But it's no rush til asphalt season.

Oh, and for those who want a lighter bone for the front instead of the steel ones.. just use the Square Ti bones for either the old style or new style suspensions. Thats what I have.
__________________
M.J. McIntyre

Yokomo YRX12
Tamiya TB03
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 06:31 PM   #5899
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Arrow

Quote:
Originally posted by buboy28
does the 415MS already have the aluminum rear hubs or do i still have to buy them seperately
ok thanks a lot now will have to order it after christmas
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 06:33 PM   #5900
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Eirik
buboy28,

You will have to buy the Alu hubs seperately, but they are worth it!!
thanks will order it after christmas
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 06:42 PM   #5901
Tech Regular
 
razzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Crappy MN weather!
Posts: 426
Send a message via Yahoo to razzo
Default

There are 3 c-hubs (castor blocks) you can use, 414/415 (these are ones with holes for upper tie-rod, 4 degrees), original TA04 blocks (no tie-rod mount, 6 degrees) and TA04 optional blocks (2 degree, with tie-rod mount)

I've been running for past 2 months on foams, with original suspension. Using Evo4 king pins. With little drill work, Evo4 king pins work fine, just tap the hole from top little wider, about 1mm deep. It'll let the king pin sit lower, and screw all the way into the knuckle.

Here's biggest thing with clearance with front king pins.. it all depends which foam brand you use! With TRC, you'll have to run Evo4 king pin mod, with open end ball cup, or shaved ball cup. With Parma, you can use original king pin, with shaved ball cup. With Jaco, you can use original king pin, with almost nothing shaved from the ball cup. New 2004 Jaco's rims are 2mm larger in inner diameter compared to TRC, and about 1mm wider then Parma. These are all with 28mm rims. Another place where 28mm rims will rub is rear sway bars, but if you use narrower suspension blocks to narrow the car in, you can use 1.5mm of shims to bring the car back out to 190mm with 28mm foams, and get the rear wheels to clear the swaybar mount.

Last thing.. all these 28mm foams are NOT 28mm wide out of the package! Last batch of Jaco I got are over 29mm wide!, TRC is little under 28mm, and Parma's been usually right on at 28mm.

Different brand wheels rubbed at different places on my car, so I just said hell with it, and sticking with Parma foam/wheels. I'll post a pic later, but with parma foams, I can run rear sway bar, and using Evo4 king pin with open ball cup, and no clearance issues what so ever.
razzo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 06:57 PM   #5902
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,443
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I used Parma on mine as well. But I'm goin back to Jaco's so I can use Double Pink for rear and Double Pink/Orange for fronts. This is with 19t class. For stock.. I'd stick with the Purple tires.

Hey Razzo... what's the part number on the 2deg caster blocks? I know the 6degree blocks are No. 50870.
__________________
M.J. McIntyre

Yokomo YRX12
Tamiya TB03
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 07:50 PM   #5903
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by buboy28
thanks will order it after christmas
I just ordered some from Speedtech, didnt see em on the site but Steve said he had them, you might contact him for some.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 09:01 PM   #5904
Tech Regular
 
razzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Crappy MN weather!
Posts: 426
Send a message via Yahoo to razzo
Default

Kilruf, part # for 2 degree blocks are 53458 (Racing uprights set) only down side, it's a SET, so comes with torque rods, and it's around $15!

How are your double pink/orange, double pink Jacos holding up? I'm done with Jaco POS!! every double pink set I have (all 8 pairs!), they've unglued from the rim, all on their own, they just start peeling away from the rim after about 2 runs. Never had any Magenta (same as DP) TRC or Parma do that. Anythig hotter then stock motor, Cyan/Magenta combo seems to be way to go.
razzo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 09:07 PM   #5905
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

I usually dont run swaybars, but I'm trying to go with a swaybar setup on this car right now, just having a hell of a time trying to get them balanced left to right. I sanded down the mounts to make them snug on the swaybar, and I put collets on the inside of the bar to hold it centered, but no luck. Anything else anyone can suggest?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 09:44 PM   #5906
Tech Elite
 
Racing4Evo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,118
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Racing4Evo
Default

Randy, that brings up a good point because when I was mounting the swaybars and testing them, it seemed to me that they wouldn't be too effective. Compressing one arm all the way hardly yielded any compression of the opposite arm. I don't know if I'm just use to nitro racing or what cause it seems like the sway bars hardly do a thing in respect of "anti-roll".
Racing4Evo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 10:40 PM   #5907
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,443
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I've had problems in the past with Jaco's (sometimes but not always)... but I guess it depends on where you start the tires. I start mine at 58mm and go from there. If I started them at 60mm.. then I'd sometimes chuck or separate them. What's Parma's equivalent to Double Pink and Double Pink/Orange?

Razzo, are you sure those are 2degree sets? I think those were 4degree. The package said 6degree. But the stock TA04 had 2degree kickup. So the blocks are actually 4degree. I have a set of them as well 53458. The 6degree TA04 Pro block were to get 8degree on the Pro since the Pro had 2degree kickup.

For swaybars, I don't really run them as well unless if it's high traction track like carpet. Then I'll run a front swaybar.
__________________
M.J. McIntyre

Yokomo YRX12
Tamiya TB03
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 11:16 PM   #5908
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Racing4Evo
Randy, that brings up a good point because when I was mounting the swaybars and testing them, it seemed to me that they wouldn't be too effective. Compressing one arm all the way hardly yielded any compression of the opposite arm. I don't know if I'm just use to nitro racing or what cause it seems like the sway bars hardly do a thing in respect of "anti-roll".
I find the stock mounts to be useless, technically if a swaybar is working properly, if you lift one arm, it should lift the other just about the same amount, the only thing that would be holding the other one back would be gravity, this of coarse isn't true when you put shocks on the arm, but you get the idea. I spent about an hour on the rear swaybar trying to perfect it, and I got it really close. Take the little plastic swaybar mounts and file them down until there is literally 0 slop on the bar when it is mounted to the bulkheads. Then get gas car throttle linkage collets and clamp them on the swaybar inside the bulkheads to get rid of side-side slop.

I took my time on this because I wanted to get it perfect, but Patrick showed me a trick that can be useful if your at the track and dont have time. Do the trick with the collets on the inside of the bulkheads, then take a plastic bag (like a parts bag or something) and clamp pieces between the swaybar mount and bulkhead, letting the swaybar rest on them instead of the bulkhead itself. This will remove a lot of slop and get more functionality from the swaybar.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 11:34 PM   #5909
Tech Addict
 
Blakesrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Grover Beach/Palm Desert, CA
Posts: 660
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Blakesrc
Default

Randy,

What spur/pinion and or final ratio have you been using at socal(for what motor as well please)? I am gonna be there on tuesday night and would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Blake
Blakesrc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2004, 11:38 PM   #5910
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Blakesrc
Randy,

What spur/pinion and or final ratio have you been using at socal(for what motor as well please)? I am gonna be there on tuesday night and would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Blake
I run a 25/104 which is I believe a 9.06/1 ratio, but dont remember for sure. I run Team Br00d V2 based 6x1 motors at SoCal.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TAMIYA TRF415 Xray XB8 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 32 04-04-2008 08:50 PM
Tamiya TRF415 Crashmaster R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 12-13-2006 04:48 PM
Tamiya TRF415 MS NIB koabich R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 8 11-11-2005 07:28 AM
F/S Tamiya TRF415 rraden R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 20 06-10-2005 09:02 PM
Tamiya Evo IV or TRF415 TheDevil Electric On-Road 23 10-15-2004 07:27 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:59 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net