Ben.C

Won't the anti-wear grease attract lots of dirt??

I agree that the std steel ones are better in terms of durability. I've change from the alu ones to the steel ones in front even during building up the MRE but kept the alu ones in the rear, as they have a lot lower wear rates there.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

You'll need to buy the MRE version spool. That way it will fit direct.
You can always slot the holes, which is a pain but it can be done!

proceed5

Thanks Charles, will do will stick with the standard steel ones. Cheers

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I had a few issue with the Aluminium axles... I didn't realise, but mine had bent badly, and were affecting the car on track. Finally noticed it when I saw the extrememe amount of wobble on one wheel in the pits, took the car apart and found both left hand axles to be bent.

Out they came to be replaced with the steel version, no issues since.

cyrrus

iTrader: (5)

Hey guy's I though I would introduce myself.

Hi there I'm Cyrrus and I'm an alcholic. Oops wrong speech.

new Tamiya driver here. pick up the 415 msx mre.

Wow what a nice a car. Out with the purple in with the blue. Can't wait to start laying some series lap times down. And hunt down some xray's

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

welcome to the "blue side"

Glad you like the car, hope you grow to love it
Got any Q's, ask away.

Cheers
Ed

chris_morrison_

my first race with my MSX MRE will be the first tcs race of 2007 in Canada this month.

any one ever run type A tires on carpet before
also does any one have any tips or tricks for 19turn rubber carpet.

proceed5

Hi,
My experiences with Tamiya Type A's - inserts Tamiya Soft (blue) or Medium (green) Inserts & apply Paragon FX2 compound (cook it [tire warmer] till dry, then clean surface with cloth & cook it till just 1-2 mins b4 heats). If compounds not allowed just clean it with tire cleaners.
And errr please clean those carpet furs after every heat!

Bwadd2002

iTrader: (15)

Im running the HPI Aluminum knuckles on the front for carpet foam setup. For some reason I am breaking the ball end right at the neck section right off the screw when I tap a board. And I mean "tap" very lightly. I consider myself a decent driver and In my last qual last night barely touched the corner and it blew for the 3rd straight qual, placed last overall last night, finished 4th A last week... so yeah... need to know if anyone else ever had the same problem. The screw is inserted through the knuckle from the bottom, in the outer most hole, and then the ball end is threaded on tight, but once I tap they snap at the neck right off. Any ideas.....? Thanks If pics would help let me know I will try and get some up....

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

How far does the screw protrude up into the ball nut? have you tried using a longer screw, one that goes to the top of the ball nut?

Also, are they aluminium or steel nuts your using?

Regards
Ed

Bwadd2002

iTrader: (15)

Hey Ed,

Well I switched to a longer screw last time it broke and it was fine for a bit, but like I said last night was a disaster I barely tapped the corner and it broke everytime. I'm using steel screws with aluminum ball ends I believe. Thanks

Clint

trf_racer

Why don't you try this: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53906

They are made from 70-75 Aluminum, should be very strong.

Bwadd2002

iTrader: (15)

yeah I guess I will have to try that, but everyone at the local track is using the screw from bottom setup including all the sponsored drivers and I wouls be the only one switching, that's why I'm trying to understand what the problem is... thanks....

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

You need to make sure the screw is long enough to go all the way to the top of the ball end, flush. The screw needs to pass the neck of the ball end to strengthen it. That should help. Now if it snaps, you would be snapping the steel screw too.

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

I run these. It takes a hard crash to break these...ahh, from my experience.