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Old 08-28-2009, 05:32 AM
  #1621  
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come to think of it my layshaft is black alu aswell
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:50 AM
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maybe it is alu. I put my second one together in about 2hrs. And really didnt have alot of time to inspect the part. But i did notice it was black
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:03 AM
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mattyau... I noticed this with my kit as well, the parts are the same just different colour is all, I wasn't really impressed at first, but it looks pretty trick once it's all together, black out all your wiring and components and everything seems to hide really nicely.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bjs227
in all my xray kits i have always had the xray shock shims. I have 2 rubber cars and the only difference i saw as the the layshaft. In the first kit it was Orange ALu and in the my second it was black plastic.
Yes the layshafts are made of a different alumn (not plastic) and when anodized it doesnt match the other orange. I think this is why they made them black instead.

Different grades of alumn will take anodize differently. And depending where and how the alumn is used is why there is different grades.

EA
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:28 AM
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Can someone post the setup the factory guys ran at the euros?
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:17 AM
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hi guys

i upgraded from a t2 07 to a t2 09 at the start of the year and it has been performing well.

recently at a club meet, one of the shocks got broken and my replacement part was the longer 07 shocks.

I placed 2 of these 07 shocks at the rear and quite surprisingly, my rear wasn't loose anymore and had more of a grip.

Just want to ask if anyone had done the same (put the 07 longer shocks at the rear of an 09) and what were the results?

thanks in advance.

I run 13.5BL on asphalt.
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Old 08-29-2009, 05:51 PM
  #1627  
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Default ecs 52mm

i have a problems with ecs 52mm vibrating when turning. is this normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfR4LknK4gk

Last edited by johndayo101; 08-29-2009 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:08 PM
  #1628  
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im just starting out so im a noob.i believe the chatter is normal, i think putting abit of graphite grease around the drive shaft coupling and abit on the bottom of the drive shaft where the pin would move helps afair bit. did you make sure when you built the esc and was securing the pin into the coupling that pin was centered and the drive shaft rotated freely around the drive axle. as i had a the same type problem when i first built mine.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:31 PM
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i cleaned and rebuild them. but never checked thorougly. this is the first time i rebuild them.. i was thinking is when you turn the steering left right the ecs is hitting the c hubs and makes it to vibrate. correct me if im wrong.
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:57 PM
  #1630  
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http://www.titaniumracing.com/menu.asp?menu_id=17 they have some great hop ups for the 009
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Old 08-29-2009, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by johndayo101
i have a problems with ecs 52mm vibrating when turning. is this normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfR4LknK4gk
a couple of things, do you have the large open c hubs (new style) I know the 009 comes with them but if you broke one you may have replaced it with an older chub with smaller opening. also check the pins in the ecs as they seem to fall out and hit the inside of the steer knuckle
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by johndayo101
i have a problems with ecs 52mm vibrating when turning. is this normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfR4LknK4gk
It looks to me like maybe you used too much locktite on your grub screws. Same thing happened to me. Too much locktite, and some of it gets on your axle grease, the grease hardens, and the axles no longer flex/bend well. Take your shafts out and see if they flop around freely, or if they seem to bind. If so.... its your locktite.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
It looks to me like maybe you used too much locktite on your grub screws. Same thing happened to me. Too much locktite, and some of it gets on your axle grease, the grease hardens, and the axles no longer flex/bend well. Take your shafts out and see if they flop around freely, or if they seem to bind. If so.... its your locktite.
thanks for the reply guys.

it might be the loctite. i put a little bit much cause i dont wanna loose those pins again. rebuild time
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:31 PM
  #1634  
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Time for me to rebuild the diffs, and I have a question. When I bought the car the diffs needed new balls and plates, so I put new parts in with lube and they were flawless. I think the plates just need to be sanded a touch and re-lubed. Is there a certain grit of sandpaper that works really well? Or with these do you just purchase new plates?

When the first rebuild time came, I just took the new plates I had put in and flipped them over, since the outdrives don't really wear out the plates as much as the diff balls. It seemed to work like new, but now THAT side is a bit more worn, and I really don't like the idea of dropping in a new rebuild kit every time they wear out. Tips or tricks anyone? Thanks a ton!

Upgraded earlier this year from TC4's in VTA and stock foam to 007's, I don't think I will own anything except XRAY from now on After 1 race night I had the 007 turning faster laps than the FT TC4 that I had ran for about 5 months!

Lots of great information in this thread!
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:23 PM
  #1635  
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Originally Posted by cwoods34
Is there a certain grit of sandpaper that works really well? Or with these do you just purchase new plates?
1000 grit u should be able to make it smooth again
tho the diff rings are pretty cheap even when u replace it u can sand the new one's before you put it in theres a tool u can get that muchmore makes so you dont have to use your fingers
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