silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

yes. rcmart has tons of option parts for it. honestly, its probably more beneficial to build the f103 from spare hopup parts since you will be changing everything. literally....

first mods: trf damper, friction plates and motor mount.

after that, make it lighter!

one part that made a HUGE difference in rear stability on my f103 was this part here:

its very stiff blue o ring and a stiff black one. my rear didnt twist as much and it gave the rear more progressive feeling.

robk

iTrader: (22)

What kind of track are you running the car on?

The only things you really need are the heatsink motor mount, some real turnbuckles for the steering, and the oil damper (shock). The rest is either dependent on the surface, or your personal preference.

njt

here's my bumper/ diffuser ,you may notice a little extra rear grip with the diffuser i did

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

Very nice! doesnt the "d-type" come with additional diffusers? opted out to save weight?


i think its just for looks anyways.

RC-ProSpeed

iTrader: (8)

Thank you for the replies, we starting to form the class so it will be on the low cost racing with
Silver can mabuchi motor, so we will not be reaching high speeds
The track is on a parking lot with medium traction

robk

iTrader: (22)

RC F1 Flex T-Bar - F103 Chassis Item #53169 Soft tbar-you might have to look on ebay or an Asian shop.

The RM will be fine since it's fiberglass, you'll be able to use the traction. The long fiberglass upper deck is something you want to look at if you feel like the steering is a little too dead. The pivotball suspension works well outdoors. The oring suspension works well too, but I have seen both work outdoors. Indoor, oring all the way. The Tamiya premount tires work, or a 25 shore for the rear and maybe 35 in front if you can get Zen tires or similar. Black or gold springs up front, with 20,000 on the king pins. Rear 25-30 in the shock, red spring or even lighter (the florescent minicar springs are lighter). 10,000 on the damper plate. White paragon on the tires, full rear, 1/4 front, cover the paragon with sunscreen when it soaks in (10 min).

RC-ProSpeed

iTrader: (8)

Thanks... Looking forward to start racing this class; since F1 is new to me, I'm sure the time will fly while on the track testing.
Will post some videos as soon I hit te track with the car

smracer31

iTrader: (6)

got my f104 up and running, as posted in the socal f1 forum

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

thats a lot of wires! how is your other side balanced?

are you ruinning 21.5brushless?


I have been wondering of going for brushed or brushless... I am used to brushless, but I have heard the silvercans are actually an advantage, not only by weight, but also performance. Has anyone compared the two?
laptimes, weight, battery consuption, etc.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

BL 21.5 is far and away more efficient, runs cooler especially after 5 mins.
We race 10 to 15 mins with lo grade lipos, and the last lap is as good as the first.
even 21.5 with no boost has more punch than silvercan.

Silvercan is no match.

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

Ive always thought that a silver can schotskied/capicatored is superior/lighter...

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

not even close although we race them together all the time.

If you had the choice and tried each one, you would pick the 21.5 in a split second.

smracer31

iTrader: (6)

to be honest im not sure about the balance, i still need to get some postage scales!

Enforcerman

smracer31, I like your F104. Are those front suspension arms carbon fiber or is that a decal? They look cool!!

kdeselms

I saw that Spaz Stix makes a carbon fibre decal sheet, they had it at A Main Hobbies but were out of stock when I looked. I suspect that's what he did there. I'm definitely going to steal that idea when I can get the decals

I've attached my just-built F104 Pro - I'll shorten the servo and ESC wires a little bit, yet. I'm guessing with the wires and the ESC, I might have to put half an ounce or so of lead on the other side to help balance it out.