U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
#16
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Here are the HPI '70 'Cuda bodies that I've painted so far using rattle cans.
Pink/Black: Testors Model Master Panther Pink (Dodge) '70/'71 28124 and Testors Model Master Flat Black 28134 (painted on inside)
Green Black: Testors Model Master Sublime Green (Dodge) '70/'71 28117 and Testors Model Master Flat Black 28134 (painted on inside)
Pink/Black: Testors Model Master Panther Pink (Dodge) '70/'71 28124 and Testors Model Master Flat Black 28134 (painted on inside)
Green Black: Testors Model Master Sublime Green (Dodge) '70/'71 28117 and Testors Model Master Flat Black 28134 (painted on inside)
#19
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Here is a link for the Model Master's lacquer 3oz paint/rattle cans - http://www.testors.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=95
I have had no problems with this paint coming off in a crash. I am always careful when I spray using rattle cans to spray in multiple light coats and give each coat a chance to dry. I usually speed up this process with a regular hair dryer on high heat. I try to let the paint cure for at least 12-24 hours before I bash...er...race a body.
I should post a pic of my pink 'Cuda body because I've pretty much bashed the front end in. I've also broken the upper left corner of the body. Even with beating the heck out of it, the paint isn't chipping. I've been very pleased with the paints so far. It has opened up some more color options for me since I don't have the patience to maintain/clean a airbrush.
From what I understand, Testors let HPI use some of this paint so HPI could paint some of the bodies on their website. In fact the HPI '70 'Cuda body's instructions tell you which model masters paint they used to paint their pink car.
One last tip for the other rattle can painters out there - a warm can paints better than a cold can. I usually put a few cups of water in a small microwavable container and only heat the water in a microwave for about 2-3 minutes. I remove the water from the microwave and place the can of paint into the water. I let the can sit in the water until the can starts to get warm and immediately remove the can from the water. This gives the can a bit more pressure and makes painting a bit easier.
I should warn everyone that spray cans are under pressure. Use the above tip at your own risk. Should the spray can become too hot the pressure could rupture the can and could cause injuries. Do not place a spray can directly in/over an open flame or heating element. Do not attempt to heat a spray can in a microwave as this could be extremely dangerous.
I have had no problems with this paint coming off in a crash. I am always careful when I spray using rattle cans to spray in multiple light coats and give each coat a chance to dry. I usually speed up this process with a regular hair dryer on high heat. I try to let the paint cure for at least 12-24 hours before I bash...er...race a body.
I should post a pic of my pink 'Cuda body because I've pretty much bashed the front end in. I've also broken the upper left corner of the body. Even with beating the heck out of it, the paint isn't chipping. I've been very pleased with the paints so far. It has opened up some more color options for me since I don't have the patience to maintain/clean a airbrush.
From what I understand, Testors let HPI use some of this paint so HPI could paint some of the bodies on their website. In fact the HPI '70 'Cuda body's instructions tell you which model masters paint they used to paint their pink car.
One last tip for the other rattle can painters out there - a warm can paints better than a cold can. I usually put a few cups of water in a small microwavable container and only heat the water in a microwave for about 2-3 minutes. I remove the water from the microwave and place the can of paint into the water. I let the can sit in the water until the can starts to get warm and immediately remove the can from the water. This gives the can a bit more pressure and makes painting a bit easier.
I should warn everyone that spray cans are under pressure. Use the above tip at your own risk. Should the spray can become too hot the pressure could rupture the can and could cause injuries. Do not place a spray can directly in/over an open flame or heating element. Do not attempt to heat a spray can in a microwave as this could be extremely dangerous.
#20
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Warming the can also makes too fine a mist if it's too hot and can waste paint. Frequently removing the can from the water is a good idea, and stop heating when you shake the can and the bearing is moving around freely inside. It doesn't take very long at all for the can to pressurize. Best bet is to keep the can inside for an hour or so before using it to let it get to room temp, then shake vigorously before spraying.
Last edited by BobbyS; 07-24-2008 at 12:15 PM.
#21
here are some that I have paint for fellow racers
this one won concourse at The HPI challenge in NJ
and this is mine
this one won concourse at The HPI challenge in NJ
and this is mine
#24
dodge, It should be 'Clean Bodies by Bean'. Nice!
on the cans... I simply turn on the hot water and let the cans take a soak in the hot tub til the can is warm, not the entire can! bout half. Also always do a test spray before you think about pointing it to the lexan. you can have a bad can and ruin a good body. I also after shooting w/ each can, turn it upside down & spray until only air is coming out...then wipe off any paint left on the nozzle w/ a paper towel...they'll be good to go for the next coat or body. I use a big cardboard box as a paint booth to help keep over spray down.
on the cans... I simply turn on the hot water and let the cans take a soak in the hot tub til the can is warm, not the entire can! bout half. Also always do a test spray before you think about pointing it to the lexan. you can have a bad can and ruin a good body. I also after shooting w/ each can, turn it upside down & spray until only air is coming out...then wipe off any paint left on the nozzle w/ a paper towel...they'll be good to go for the next coat or body. I use a big cardboard box as a paint booth to help keep over spray down.
#25
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hate to be an old maid about this, but for the sake of the kids -- heating the can even with water from the tap can cause the gas in the can to boil after only a minute or less, even if you only warm half the can. Please don't try this at home without adult supervision!
#26
Don't breath the fumes either!
#29
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Thanks for posting front/rear photos for the #42 Cuda. I'm not sure if I've ever seen a good photo of the rear bumper.
Sorry for opening a "can" of worms with warming a spray paint can.
I should also add that I finally learned my leason when painting and bought a decent paint mask. I try to paint outside (weather permitting in Indiana), and wear a mask to prevent breathing in the fine paint mist. Can't imagine the gunk that I put in my system from not wearing a mask.
As far as the Testors Model Masters spray paint, make sure that you use the lacquer based paint. If you use the Model Masters acrylic paint on an r/c body it will most likely fall off after impact. I will post a close-up of a body that has seen some abuse to show the results that I've had so far.
Sorry for opening a "can" of worms with warming a spray paint can.
I should also add that I finally learned my leason when painting and bought a decent paint mask. I try to paint outside (weather permitting in Indiana), and wear a mask to prevent breathing in the fine paint mist. Can't imagine the gunk that I put in my system from not wearing a mask.
As far as the Testors Model Masters spray paint, make sure that you use the lacquer based paint. If you use the Model Masters acrylic paint on an r/c body it will most likely fall off after impact. I will post a close-up of a body that has seen some abuse to show the results that I've had so far.