theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

with a real agressive setup in the speedo and a heavy trigger finger, I can see you using more then the low voltage cut off. in 1s application i have seen guys dump a 5000mah pack in an 8min run. also remember with a 2s application the cut off is total for the pack and not per cell. so you could have 2 cell that may not be holding as good of a charge. basically I am not aware of any lipo that are match packs at this point. it would be good to do a balance charge and then monitor each cell on the discharge to see if each cell is maintaining the same level

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

i am using down to 3.8 and 2400mah in my 12th

Krio

iTrader: (159)

My personal setup for a 110 ft straight is 5 on the motor and 5 on boost with start/end rpm at 5000/20000 geared 19/84.

Copying myself from a couple pages back on general mod setups offroad:

For smooth power go with dual mode like smoke suggests with 60-70 advance to start. For more power feel free to go all the way to 100.
If you still need more snort then swap over to sensored only mode and leave the motor at its default timing with boost and turbo at 0.
If you want "lolomgwtf" power turn the motor back to 5 degrees and just start with 10 degrees of boost with 5000/30000 start/end rpms. If you still have room to lay down power on the straight then keep adding 5 degrees of timing at a time until the tires fall off.

For future offroad questions hit up the RS thread in the offroad section.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Correct. Typically, you won't come anywhere close to the LVC in a 6-min stock touring car race. With a 17.5 I usually am still at around 7.8V at that point, after starting at 8.40V.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

i assume that is 3.8v no load. we are running 2900 and I have seen guy with my setup almost 3300mah

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

what you mean no load.

Tomah

Bit of a dilemma, any help would be appreciated.

Been running the tekin rs on v200 firmware for sometime without issue. Running 1/10th Touring car with novak ballistic 13.5 motor.

Been running fairly mild settings untill recently, i updated to the latest v203 firmware and ran into some issues. After updating the firmware, seemingly regardless of what settings i choose i have "cogging" issues (if this is the correct term). The car will move to a point, then stop and stutter with quite a loud whining noise.

Havent had this issue previously, occured as soon as i updated the firmware. Pretty lost as to what could be the cause of the problem.

Since i have downgraded to v200, and have no such issues. But running in a race, after approx 3mins im noticing a lack of punch, and the turbo boost is lesser than that at the start of the race. Motor is coming off at reasonable temps, so isnt overheating. Unsure what could be causing this.

Any help would be appreciated, can provide more info if need be.

Cheers.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

post your 203 setup,to much timing low will cause the squeal/cog

Senna Racing

iTrader: (2)

you my be over timed as the ballistic comes with 30 as standard

and if you set your radio throttle epa to 90% and do the recalibration thing it should take care of the turbo fade

Tomah

Drag brake: OFF
Reverse: 100
Brakes: 90
Motor: BL-FW
Throttle: 5
Push: OFF
Timing: 45
Turbo: 10

Sensored

0.5 Delay

Start 4933
End 14500

Ramp 1.0

Tomah

Way over timed with that i figure?

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

That's a perfectly reasonable 13.5 setup...

Have you turned the endbell timing down on the Ballistic?

I have actually had a few guys have cogging issues with the RS/Ballistic combo when they turned the endbell timing all the way down. Turning it back to neutral corrected it. Seems counter-intuitive, but it worked.

Tomah

Nope, motor is at its stock position. Havent touched the endbell timing.

Senna Racing

iTrader: (2)

You could also try this

i set 1 up the other night with simiar settings except it was 17.5 with lower rpm rates 2.0

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Timing on the motor is so relative manufacturer to manufacturer...
I have found too little timing on the motor will cause stuttering at takeoff. Try even going past neutral a couple degrees at a time and see if that solves the problem.