Tekin RS ESC sensored
#8431
Tech Master
It can easily locate the position of the rotor this way and nows better were it is. This way the motor runs better.
To let a motor run on a sensor, you must now it's position. The better the speedo nows it's position the better the speedo can do it's work and the motor will go faster.
There is a sort of Voltage booster in the speedo that changes the Voltage.
#8432
Tech Master
The AE is winning in the first few meters. After that it is as fast as any other speedo.
I don't now if Tekin can do it with there current speedo.
I hope they can.
I don't now if Tekin can do it with there current speedo.
I hope they can.
#8433
Tech Fanatic
not what I was saying.
all speedos maybe using pwm drive circuits. But it seams that the AE maybe the only one that varies the frequency. and it looks like the higher the freq the more power the pwm circuit requires. I understand that there is a port on the speedo and that it is said that it is only because of the BEC that people use it. I am just saying that maybe it is not just for the convenience, but that the "recommended" configuration is to have the rx pack connected to the speedo. And the reason is that the pwm circuit when varying the freq to a high freq may require a more consistent power source then the varying power source of the main 3.7v battery pack. especially during hard acceleration, which is where the AE shines. at no point did I say that the RX is used to drive the motor.
all speedos maybe using pwm drive circuits. But it seams that the AE maybe the only one that varies the frequency. and it looks like the higher the freq the more power the pwm circuit requires. I understand that there is a port on the speedo and that it is said that it is only because of the BEC that people use it. I am just saying that maybe it is not just for the convenience, but that the "recommended" configuration is to have the rx pack connected to the speedo. And the reason is that the pwm circuit when varying the freq to a high freq may require a more consistent power source then the varying power source of the main 3.7v battery pack. especially during hard acceleration, which is where the AE shines. at no point did I say that the RX is used to drive the motor.
Your motor + ESC boost timing together should not exceed 30. Yours was 45, so it generated lots of heat. Go back to 5 on the motor and 25 on the ESC and it will not generate heat. (this is just an example, you can go to 15-15, 10-20, 14-16, etc. but maybe 30 is too much and you need 0-25 only).
I suggest you to follow these steps to set up your esc:
1. gear the car light
2. set up your motor timing. to do so, run the car on the track and monitor your in-field performance. try different combinations of motor and esc timing, but the sum should not exceed 30. do not measure your top speed in the straight, it is not important yet
3. when you are satisfied with the behavior of your car in the corners, set up the gearing. run 3 minutes and measure the temperature of your motor. the gearing is right if you get 80deg C. If you have more, make the gearing shorter, if you measure colder, then you can make the gearing longer. make sure you always start your 3 minutes with cold motor.
4. now, your in-field performance is set. you have to set up the esc for the straight. start with turbo 10 and turbo delay 0,8s (on a long straight, but if you drive on a small track you can start from 0,5s). you have to set up the turbo value in a way that your car accelerates to a meaningful top speed and you set up the timing in a way that you can see only one acceleration and not two.
hope this helps
I suggest you to follow these steps to set up your esc:
1. gear the car light
2. set up your motor timing. to do so, run the car on the track and monitor your in-field performance. try different combinations of motor and esc timing, but the sum should not exceed 30. do not measure your top speed in the straight, it is not important yet
3. when you are satisfied with the behavior of your car in the corners, set up the gearing. run 3 minutes and measure the temperature of your motor. the gearing is right if you get 80deg C. If you have more, make the gearing shorter, if you measure colder, then you can make the gearing longer. make sure you always start your 3 minutes with cold motor.
4. now, your in-field performance is set. you have to set up the esc for the straight. start with turbo 10 and turbo delay 0,8s (on a long straight, but if you drive on a small track you can start from 0,5s). you have to set up the turbo value in a way that your car accelerates to a meaningful top speed and you set up the timing in a way that you can see only one acceleration and not two.
hope this helps
#8434
That was the same problem I was facing and trying so hard to match. Unfortunately Tekins 2 stage timing increase + delay is the reason nothing much can be done to help low to mid acceleration. I believe the RS can be improved further with better firmware by changing the way timing is applied. Timing should be applied little at a time in a linear manner instead of in lumps....
#8435
hey guys think i toaster my rs, quick question though i did the old +ve to -ve etc trick and the cap went pop, if i plug in the esc the lights do blink but the esc doesnt register with the reciever. Reciver is fine though. much chance of fixing it or is it a bin job?
#8436
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
I'm having no luck in using the search function, so I apologise if it's been asked, but what would be a good starting point for rollout/timing etc for a
F104 Pro with the RS 21.5T combo.
Track is free flowing with a little infield. I would be intersted in hearing others F104pro setup's. Thanks
F104 Pro with the RS 21.5T combo.
Track is free flowing with a little infield. I would be intersted in hearing others F104pro setup's. Thanks
#8437
Tech Master
That was the same problem I was facing and trying so hard to match. Unfortunately Tekins 2 stage timing increase + delay is the reason nothing much can be done to help low to mid acceleration. I believe the RS can be improved further with better firmware by changing the way timing is applied. Timing should be applied little at a time in a linear manner instead of in lumps....
But it will be easier as it is applied in bits (dynamic timing).
#8440
Thanks to a member on here and his computer smarts in coding programs my Hotwire now works on my laptop!
I have version 200 on there now and I'm looking for the version that allows me to adjust the trubo boost time. 200. something?
If you have it, can you please e-mail me a copy at [email protected] I'd greatly appreciate it!
I have version 200 on there now and I'm looking for the version that allows me to adjust the trubo boost time. 200. something?
If you have it, can you please e-mail me a copy at [email protected] I'd greatly appreciate it!
#8445
v200
max i just have my hotwire can u send me vegas200 to my email [email protected] thanks a lot bro