Tekin RS ESC sensored
#6091
I've never had any braking issues with my DUO 13.5 from versions 189 thru 200. My brake strength (on hotwire) doesn't even have to be set at full, it's at about 70 only on my Airtronics MX-3. My EPA for brake is maxed out on the transmitter, if that helps anyone.
Last edited by stocker; 08-15-2009 at 06:18 AM. Reason: typo
#6092
The speeds with a 10,5 are higher than it was before with the new stock speedo's.
When you put a 10,5 in it you will see it.
Don't mes up the Timing Boost and Turbo Boost.
"turbo 5 turbo boost max, delay 0.5sec" The first you meant Timing boost.
The top speeds of a 10,5 on 5 cell are above the 77km/h.
The 13,5 and 10,5 lipo are above the 80km/h.
It depends on how long the straight is.
On my home track the difference between the mod times and the stock times are almost 0.
It's now only 0,12 Sec difference.
When you put a 10,5 in it you will see it.
Don't mes up the Timing Boost and Turbo Boost.
"turbo 5 turbo boost max, delay 0.5sec" The first you meant Timing boost.
The top speeds of a 10,5 on 5 cell are above the 77km/h.
The 13,5 and 10,5 lipo are above the 80km/h.
It depends on how long the straight is.
On my home track the difference between the mod times and the stock times are almost 0.
It's now only 0,12 Sec difference.
don't be so serious...
"turbo 5 turbo boost max, delay 0.5sec" The first you meant Timing boost.
yes, timing boost: 5, turbo boost: Max, delay 0.5...
Still the fact is that, thank new esc, the 10.5 class is becoming ridicolously fast.
At the recent Italians, the 6.5 class was at 84kmh and the 10.5 was 81...
The 10.5 is becoming worst than the 27 brushed which was an extremely sophisticated, and definitely not for newcomers...
Anyhow, back on the point...
I think, due the circuit, to need something to be faster on the straight.
is there any thing wrong in my set up?
#6093
Turn off turbo first. Setup the timing boost and gear ratios until you get the best possible lap times, and 85% of max motor temp. Then turn on full turbo. Good luck.
#6094
Tech Regular
What motor is that gearing for???? 13.5 or 17.5? It's seems over geared for a 13.5 but I could be wrong. If it is a 13.5 I would drop the gearing to 5.7 or so. I haven't run my throtle at 5 yet. I've run 3 & 4 and they didn't really feel all that different to me. I believe these setting just change the power band/curve in the intial trigger pull. If you're looking for more punch I would gear down just a hair. Randy will be along shortly to offer more help or correct me if I'm wrong with what I said. You will be ready to go by the weekend
Sorry should have said that it was for a 10.5.
#6096
Well I'm having brake issues with the Tekin and Novak 17.5 motors. Brakes suck arse with 200. There are a few others at our track having problems as well. One guy went back to his SPX until I figure it out hehe. I dunno, would a larger or more capacitors help any? I think I had this issue with 199 as well. Just not strong like the LRPs. I dunno if this makes any sense, but it seems like to me... the lower the drag brake value, the weaker the brakes. I experienced this a few weeks back at the Coliseum. Brake strength is left at 100%. Just does not make sense.
Today I started with 25% drag, ended up at 47%. Tomorrow I'm gonna try 60% with a Duo 17.5.
And I'm not talking about drag brake strength, I'm talking about applying full brakes with your finger. Brakes are just weak sauce.
Today I started with 25% drag, ended up at 47%. Tomorrow I'm gonna try 60% with a Duo 17.5.
And I'm not talking about drag brake strength, I'm talking about applying full brakes with your finger. Brakes are just weak sauce.
#6097
Oh, another note, can we get back zero turbo delay like on 199? This 0.5 ain't cutting it. Takes too long to kick in.
#6098
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
i'm guessing that part of the braking issue is that with the super low gear ratios used with these advanced timing profiles, you need a boat load of brakes just to offset the high RPMs the motor is pulling... basically it's harder to slow a motor pulling 40k rps at the end of the straight than to slow a motor pulling 25-30k RPMs...
#6100
200 software
twelve guage,
You have a message.
Robert
You have a message.
Robert
#6101
Im not sure how the novak's like to be geared in comarrison to the Duos and Redlines, but that seems to be geared a bit too tall. With my redline, I was geared around 5.0. With my Duo, I have been running 4.2. But with the realease of 200, and all the advice to gear down even a bit more, I am now running 4.5 with my duo. If I were you , I would certainly bring a larger spur just in case 3.46 is way over-geared. Look up Mark Cavanag when you get to the track... im pretty sure he is running a novak 17.5.
See ya Sunday
Cpt.
See ya Sunday
Cpt.
#6102
i'm guessing that part of the braking issue is that with the super low gear ratios used with these advanced timing profiles, you need a boat load of brakes just to offset the high RPMs the motor is pulling... basically it's harder to slow a motor pulling 40k rps at the end of the straight than to slow a motor pulling 25-30k RPMs...
I can lock the brakes on a 5.5 with brand X esc
#6104
just a FYI I geared MY duo 17.5 at 3.7 last sunday with 17 on boost and timing, 0 delay
#6105
Tech Apprentice
Tested the 10.5 Redline + RS (v200) on a technical track with relatively short straight (60 ft).
Car: Tamiya TA-05 IFS, front spool, rear ball diff.
Radio: Futaba 3PM 2.4G, receiver: Futaba R603FF
FDR: 6.85
Battery: 4200 Mah LIPO
DB: 15
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 45
MT: 3
TP: 5
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 15
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
Track temp: 82F
Motor temp: 120F after 15 minute run.
My car was very fast, easily gaining on another car fitted with 4.5T BL, both on the straight and infield. The turbo kicks in almost immediately after I hit the straight, but it is too short to hit the max rpm. Accelleration coming onto the straight is awesome.
I have to adjust the setup a bit to make sure that I don't lose traction at the end of the straight where it goes into a wide 90 degree turn. Probably increase DB to 20 to slow down a bit more before entering the turn.
I only use drag brake despite the track being very technical with multiple hair pin turns. I found dragbrake sufficient.
Car: Tamiya TA-05 IFS, front spool, rear ball diff.
Radio: Futaba 3PM 2.4G, receiver: Futaba R603FF
FDR: 6.85
Battery: 4200 Mah LIPO
DB: 15
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 45
MT: 3
TP: 5
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 15
Turbo: max
Turbo delay: 0.5
Track temp: 82F
Motor temp: 120F after 15 minute run.
My car was very fast, easily gaining on another car fitted with 4.5T BL, both on the straight and infield. The turbo kicks in almost immediately after I hit the straight, but it is too short to hit the max rpm. Accelleration coming onto the straight is awesome.
I have to adjust the setup a bit to make sure that I don't lose traction at the end of the straight where it goes into a wide 90 degree turn. Probably increase DB to 20 to slow down a bit more before entering the turn.
I only use drag brake despite the track being very technical with multiple hair pin turns. I found dragbrake sufficient.