Tekin RS ESC sensored
12-16-2010, 08:11 AM
I have it set at 30. On this new Ballistic they have 15-30-45 instead of - N +. I have not touched the timing of this motor. I bought it and stuck it in. I have 2 RS's programmed exactly the same and one wont run the ballistic and the other will. I have caps on both esc's. I is just weird. Just trying to figure out what is going on. Any other suggestions appreciated
12-16-2010, 09:53 AM
Chances are you've got a sensor issue somewhere. My first suggestion is to swap the motors between the two cars and see if the issue follows the motor or stays with the car.
12-16-2010, 10:22 AM
I have it set at 30. On this new Ballistic they have 15-30-45 instead of - N +. I have not touched the timing of this motor. I bought it and stuck it in. I have 2 RS's programmed exactly the same and one wont run the ballistic and the other will. I have caps on both esc's. I is just weird. Just trying to figure out what is going on. Any other suggestions appreciated
I have had several issues with the Ballsitics
They seem to be difficult to get Sensor wire in motor correctly unless you take your time, also I ALWAYS change to a softer sensor wire
Thankx, Bill
12-16-2010, 04:21 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Question regarding ESC Turbo and Motor Timing AND temperatures:
Are these the usual steps you guys usually use to find the right motor temps/speed?
1. Gearing
2. Adjust motor timing (endbell) and/or ESC turbo/boost
3. Gear up (lower FDR #) if your ESC Turbo/Boost settings > 50 + motor temps are still cold
Mainly concerned about #2, do you leave motor timing at 0 then adjust ESC or first adjust motor timing?
This is for a DUO 1/2/3
TIA
Are these the usual steps you guys usually use to find the right motor temps/speed?
1. Gearing
2. Adjust motor timing (endbell) and/or ESC turbo/boost
3. Gear up (lower FDR #) if your ESC Turbo/Boost settings > 50 + motor temps are still cold
Mainly concerned about #2, do you leave motor timing at 0 then adjust ESC or first adjust motor timing?
This is for a DUO 1/2/3
TIA
12-16-2010, 04:46 PM
Tech Adept
Start with the Boost and gearing to find a good infield speed.
later ad the Turbo for the top speed.
later ad the Turbo for the top speed.
12-16-2010, 05:11 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
start with 0 mechanical timing on motor and then add it after? or start with a few notches?
Using a DUO1/3
Using a DUO1/3
12-16-2010, 07:18 PM
I had tried many others motors as well with simular results with just this one esc. All my other rs's had no issues. Thanks for the help and I love my Tekins.
12-16-2010, 11:06 PM
V212 ROAR approved Spec profile
How do you select the new ROAR spec profile in Hotwire v5?
12-16-2010, 11:13 PM
12-17-2010, 07:58 AM
Thanks. I saw this for v208, but it mentioned blinky center light. v212 mentions blinky lights 3 & 5 and I can't find the v212 manual so wasn't certain. Thanks for your help.
12-17-2010, 02:58 PM
Tech Adept
start with 0 mechanical timing on motor and then add it after? or start with a few notches?
look what works the best with the motor.
play with the motor timing to find the best setting for the motor.
I run Tekin, LRP X11 and SPv3 motors.
The Tekin works great with 0 to 10 timing. higher than that causes a lot of head.
The lrp is a spec motor so I never change the timing.
The SPv3 I always run on max timing. As you set it lower, than you have no power. The timing on max on this motor is the only timing I use.
On the Tekin I use a timing of 4 to 10 on larger tracks. On smaller tracks I use 0 to 6 timing on the motor.
Using a DUO1/3
look what works the best with the motor.
play with the motor timing to find the best setting for the motor.
I run Tekin, LRP X11 and SPv3 motors.
The Tekin works great with 0 to 10 timing. higher than that causes a lot of head.
The lrp is a spec motor so I never change the timing.
The SPv3 I always run on max timing. As you set it lower, than you have no power. The timing on max on this motor is the only timing I use.
On the Tekin I use a timing of 4 to 10 on larger tracks. On smaller tracks I use 0 to 6 timing on the motor.
Using a DUO1/3
it is 0 timing setting. for stock racing were no timing on the speedo is allowed.
Last edited by toptek; 12-18-2010 at 08:39 AM.
12-17-2010, 05:13 PM
Yeah, they blink differently. 208 would blink the center light. 212 blinks two lights. I can't say for certain what number lights they are, but it is two lights. You'll also know that you are in the correct profile when you're in hotwire by seeing that all the timing controls have been disabled.
12-17-2010, 06:44 PM
roger that. thanks
12-17-2010, 07:52 PM
Tech Master
Yeah, they blink differently. 208 would blink the center light. 212 blinks two lights. I can't say for certain what number lights they are, but it is two lights. You'll also know that you are in the correct profile when you're in hotwire by seeing that all the timing controls have been disabled.
12-18-2010, 05:15 AM
Hey guys,
I was trying to setup an RS Pro last night to run Brushed FW-Only w/ Lipo. I had it wired up (ABC to negative on the motor, shared B+) and everytime I put the ESC into calibration mode it would blow the cap. Did this three times.
I'm running 212. Happened with the motor connected and disconnected. Tried to do a factory reset, ensured the ESC was setup for Brushed FW-Only and the LiPo cutoff was working, etc etc. The cap would just blow everytime I tried to calibrate my endpoints.
Was hoping someone would have a clue as to what the issue is.
Thanks!
I was trying to setup an RS Pro last night to run Brushed FW-Only w/ Lipo. I had it wired up (ABC to negative on the motor, shared B+) and everytime I put the ESC into calibration mode it would blow the cap. Did this three times.
I'm running 212. Happened with the motor connected and disconnected. Tried to do a factory reset, ensured the ESC was setup for Brushed FW-Only and the LiPo cutoff was working, etc etc. The cap would just blow everytime I tried to calibrate my endpoints.
Was hoping someone would have a clue as to what the issue is.
Thanks!