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Old 12-16-2010, 09:11 AM   #18946
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I have it set at 30. On this new Ballistic they have 15-30-45 instead of - N +. I have not touched the timing of this motor. I bought it and stuck it in. I have 2 RS's programmed exactly the same and one wont run the ballistic and the other will. I have caps on both esc's. I is just weird. Just trying to figure out what is going on. Any other suggestions appreciated
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:53 AM   #18947
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Chances are you've got a sensor issue somewhere. My first suggestion is to swap the motors between the two cars and see if the issue follows the motor or stays with the car.
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:22 AM   #18948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victory Side View Post
I have it set at 30. On this new Ballistic they have 15-30-45 instead of - N +. I have not touched the timing of this motor. I bought it and stuck it in. I have 2 RS's programmed exactly the same and one wont run the ballistic and the other will. I have caps on both esc's. I is just weird. Just trying to figure out what is going on. Any other suggestions appreciated


I have had several issues with the Ballsitics
They seem to be difficult to get Sensor wire in motor correctly unless you take your time, also I ALWAYS change to a softer sensor wire

Thankx, Bill
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:21 PM   #18949
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Question regarding ESC Turbo and Motor Timing AND temperatures:

Are these the usual steps you guys usually use to find the right motor temps/speed?

1. Gearing
2. Adjust motor timing (endbell) and/or ESC turbo/boost
3. Gear up (lower FDR #) if your ESC Turbo/Boost settings > 50 + motor temps are still cold

Mainly concerned about #2, do you leave motor timing at 0 then adjust ESC or first adjust motor timing?

This is for a DUO 1/2/3

TIA
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:46 PM   #18950
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Start with the Boost and gearing to find a good infield speed.
later ad the Turbo for the top speed.
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:11 PM   #18951
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start with 0 mechanical timing on motor and then add it after? or start with a few notches?

Using a DUO1/3
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:18 PM   #18952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Chances are you've got a sensor issue somewhere. My first suggestion is to swap the motors between the two cars and see if the issue follows the motor or stays with the car.
That is what I did. I took the novak ss 17.5 out of my one TC and put it in the other TC that had the Ballistic in it. I put the Ballistic in the TC that had the SS and it worked as did the SS worked in the other car. For now I am just leaving them the way they are.

I had tried many others motors as well with simular results with just this one esc. All my other rs's had no issues. Thanks for the help and I love my Tekins.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:06 AM   #18953
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Default V212 ROAR approved Spec profile

How do you select the new ROAR spec profile in Hotwire v5?
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:13 AM   #18954
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How do you select the new ROAR spec profile in Hotwire v5?
I think you mean non ramping profile? Just put it in profile 1.
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:58 AM   #18955
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Thanks. I saw this for v208, but it mentioned blinky center light. v212 mentions blinky lights 3 & 5 and I can't find the v212 manual so wasn't certain. Thanks for your help.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:58 PM   #18956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j86 View Post
start with 0 mechanical timing on motor and then add it after? or start with a few notches?

look what works the best with the motor.
play with the motor timing to find the best setting for the motor.
I run Tekin, LRP X11 and SPv3 motors.
The Tekin works great with 0 to 10 timing. higher than that causes a lot of head.
The lrp is a spec motor so I never change the timing.
The SPv3 I always run on max timing. As you set it lower, than you have no power. The timing on max on this motor is the only timing I use.
On the Tekin I use a timing of 4 to 10 on larger tracks. On smaller tracks I use 0 to 6 timing on the motor.

Using a DUO1/3
Quote:
Originally Posted by marksp View Post
Thanks. I saw this for v208, but it mentioned blinky center light. v212 mentions blinky lights 3 & 5 and I can't find the v212 manual so wasn't certain. Thanks for your help.
it is the same.
it is 0 timing setting. for stock racing were no timing on the speedo is allowed.

Last edited by toptek; 12-18-2010 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:13 PM   #18957
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Thanks. I saw this for v208, but it mentioned blinky center light. v212 mentions blinky lights 3 & 5 and I can't find the v212 manual so wasn't certain. Thanks for your help.
Yeah, they blink differently. 208 would blink the center light. 212 blinks two lights. I can't say for certain what number lights they are, but it is two lights. You'll also know that you are in the correct profile when you're in hotwire by seeing that all the timing controls have been disabled.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:44 PM   #18958
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roger that. thanks
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:52 PM   #18959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
Yeah, they blink differently. 208 would blink the center light. 212 blinks two lights. I can't say for certain what number lights they are, but it is two lights. You'll also know that you are in the correct profile when you're in hotwire by seeing that all the timing controls have been disabled.
Spec profile indicated by led's #3 and #5 flashing.
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:15 AM   #18960
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Hey guys,

I was trying to setup an RS Pro last night to run Brushed FW-Only w/ Lipo. I had it wired up (ABC to negative on the motor, shared B+) and everytime I put the ESC into calibration mode it would blow the cap. Did this three times.

I'm running 212. Happened with the motor connected and disconnected. Tried to do a factory reset, ensured the ESC was setup for Brushed FW-Only and the LiPo cutoff was working, etc etc. The cap would just blow everytime I tried to calibrate my endpoints.

Was hoping someone would have a clue as to what the issue is.

Thanks!
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