Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

If you want to know a bit on what rims are strong I would check out this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=20911

blixelX

i noticed that my tb01 is come 3 spur gears (61T, 58T, 55T) and the work with pinions (16T - 25T)... r these gearing ratio just work with the stock motor? if i change to a better motor (eg. 13T motor), can i use a bigger pinion (>25T) and smaller spur gear (<55T)? or even i change what ever motor still use back the same gearing ratio setting from the manual?

i am currently using 16T pinion + 61T spur gear and 20T pinion + 58T spur gear... any1 had try other ratio setting with a very good result by using the tb01, plz do advise... thkz...

davioh

just as i thought....original TB01 rims always crack after a few runs....

im 14

WC

iTrader: (28)

TB01 is pretty versatile on the gearing front... if you buy some more pinions you will have about everything you need from 9.91:1 (16/61) to 5.72:1 (25/55). You really don't need anything outside of this.

Silvercan RS540 kit motor is OK on torque but doesn't rev very high, probably only about 20,000rpm - think like lorry diesel engine. So if you want higher top speed, you gear Up (= bigger pinion). If you are running in a pretty big place, you can probably even use the 25/55 combination. Silvercan can pull very high ratios without complaining.

Modified motors on the other hand like to rev... they probably can reach 40,000rpm - think like racing motorcycle engine. If you don't let them rev, they will bog down and get overloaded - and Overheat!! This is very bad for the motor. So for Mod motor, you should gear DOWN quite a bit and allow the motor to rev fully.


What is "correct" gearing depends on where you are running. If its a big area and you can run full speed without stopping, you can gear up a bit. But if you have small area and always start/stop, then gear down.

blixelX

yah... very fragile...

u only 14?? so good can owned a r/c at this young age... i only can get now coz cant afford at study time...

davioh

well i do it as a hobby. it doesn't really affect my school work...cuz i still get near strait A's...i use this hobby as one of my "self motivated learning" goals...which is one of the things my school strives for...so i try to mix my hobby with more practical things (how chargers work, gearing, batts (chem ) and so on

WC

iTrader: (28)

Unfortunately Tamiya normal plastic wheels are all like that, they are made of a hard plastic that is not very impact-resistant. Even their TRF dish wheels will crack similarly.

Tamiya makes a carbon/fibre-reinforced wheel that is black and is much stiffer too, but this can also crack if hit too hard. They only come in 2 designs (5-spoke & BBS mesh) only, only in matte black and are about 2X price of standard ones.


In Singapore go around the hobby shops and you should be able to find generic no-brand 24mm wheels about SGD16 or less for 8pcs. I bought a heap & seem to work pretty well, whacked a few boards and they're still intact. I think they're made of nylon and they also survive acetone. HPI etc also make good wheels.

blixelX

what is rev stands for??

is the tt01 good??? tl01, tt01, & tb01, which 1 better??

WC, u from singapore too???

WC

iTrader: (28)

rev = revolution = RPM...

TT01 is "beginner" car.
I think it will replace the TL01 very soon; also slightly cheaper.

TB01 is better than TT01 (you got oil shocks, bearings...).


No, I not from S'pore although I've gone and visited every single
hobby shop in S'pore, last time was just earlier this year.

My first Tamiya came from S'pore... ~25 yrs ago.

KiwiKid

Hey dude,

For wheels, I suggest that you get either some Speedmind dish wheels (get them from Winnie in Orchard Plaza) or some 6 spoke Ride wheels (get them from Hobby Bug at Marina South). Both are very durable and cheap (around $6 for a set of four).

WC

iTrader: (28)

I got some Ride and some Yokomo wheels before too, both in white... but they seem to make it out of same material as Tamiya. They will not survive acetone and they feel hard enough to crack on impact too.


If you whack kerbs a lot... I just got given some Schumacher RevLite dish wheels. These are pretty flexible plastic, but this don't seem to hurt performance on track. Last w/e I tested their whackability (haha) and they survived fine. Picked up heaps of paint from the boards (heehee), wiped them off with acetone no problems. They sound like a good bet & not expensive.

Have no idea who in S'pore sells Schuey stuff, can't help you there.

WC

iTrader: (28)

forgot to mention...

I also use Kyosho 24mm multi-spoke wheels as seen on the V-One-R, they're pretty stiff for something with no reinforcing ribs behind it. They've survived the bashing & acetone tests so far.

They're a bit more interesting to look at compared to dog dishes definitely, and available 8 to a bag from your favourite Kyosho dealer.




Pls note... Tamiya "standard" tyres are for 26mm rims (Tamiya calls their tyres 27mm). The 24mm rims are for what Tamiya calls "medium narrow". Shouldn't mix 26mm & 24mm.

blixelX

so, 26mm or 24mm is better??

if not wrong, 26mm will hav better speed than 24mm, rite??

davioh

i dun't htink speed will be a differnece...just control...26 will give u better stability but 24 will be more responsive

sty

iTrader: (7)

Hi blixel X,

i am also thinking of buying a tb01, may i know where you bought it and how much? By the way i am from spore and 39 yrs old. Even worst than you, now than got a little bit of money to play RC. HA Ha.