Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

They're not going to move around, they will self center in the counter sink. Possible they could pull through. Don't know, as I mentioned it's "work-able", not "THEE" perfect fit.

You know what would be freaking sweet? Just drill another set of holes "X" dimension in front of or behind the stock ones and work with the shorter or longer wheelbase. Hmmm...

Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

And now that I look at it some more. There is more to it. If you're running small front tires, 39.5-40mm with no front end ride height spacers, the counter sink on the small screw is going to need to be addressed higher up in the suspension arm mount.

Lower a-arm inserts my need a bit of countersinking to compensate. Might not be necessary with a taller tire and spacers.

Minor stuff. As a buddy of mine always says, "that ain't no hill for a climber..".

Mr. Blonde

eemm guys....our front axle fits on any car, that uses the L4 front axle!!
We have different aluminium inserts for the front axle as an option, that fits US screw size drillings.

You only need to shim out the front stabilizer for any car...but thats easy....the stabilizer only needs little preload, so you can turn the rubber rings slighty when all is built.

We did this on purpose, some manufacturers do not really want to produce the oldschool L4 parts anymore, so there is a further option for any car.

Greetz!
Markus

P.S.: As far as I know, the kits that have been shipped from us since last week do all include new t-bars and all three caster blocks. I either use 3 or 6 degree. Depends on the track and traction. If you traction roll or simply have a too aggressive feeling, use 3 degree. If you have understeer use 6.

Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

Did you mean "front end", or actually just the axle itself?

Cool. Would you have those part numbers? as of this post, the only ones Serpent lists on it's site are the 411030 stock ones. These:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...l?pn=SER411030

So that we know and our customers know, are these newest kits marked in any way that signifies this change?

Mr. Blonde

Oh yeah, meant front end.....man that european english :-) time to be in the US again *lol*
Well....do not know all those part numbers, ask at Serpent US or simply Ronald from Serpent here.

When did you get the last shipment Bob?? Eddy from Serpent US told me there are kits on the way...so there should be the new options in them.
Markus

serpentamerica

Hi Guys,

The kits that are on the way to us will have all the latest upgrades and will come with the differents blocks. We don't know yet if they are going to be market differently at the moment.

serpentamerica

We are checking on this. This is new to us too. Maybe he is referring to some proto parts that are going to be available soon, but not sure. As soon as we have the info we will post it

Geezatec

Received kit today. Quickly inspected the kit. New T-Bar included in separate bag. Bag #3 The old T-Bar. Quickly useing a caliper Stock appromately 2.10mm, new one appromately 2.25mm.(old Caliper)

Crashby

Are you measuring the thickness? That is not the problem with the T bars. It's the location of the screw holes that mount the pivot ball cups. Have those holes been moved or are their more than two on the new T bars?

Geezatec

Like I said, was inspected quickly, Measure were done quickly. Don't know about the screw or mounting screws yet. Won't know till I have a good look, maybe tonight or tomorrow.

serpvect

Does somebody know where the new improved kit is in stock? I was going to order from stormerhobbies but would prefer to wait for a new kit. And yes, I also need shipping to Russia..

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

serpent america has kits inbound..

Geezatec

Closer look at T-BARS, Bag#3 Stock, measures 2.0mm thickness. Bag with NEW handwritten measures at 2.10mm. Addendum for page 12 assembly useing shims on 2.0 t- bar, no shim useing 1.75 T-Bar. Digital caliper maybe off, if someone has the new version made in china. he could check his measurements. Addendum says when mounting supplied 2.0mm T-bar to use shims, optional 1.75 T-bar not required to use shims.

Will know when assembling the Model.

Any other takes on this??

Julius

The shimming is the same as with the original t-bars.
The new ones have button head screws in stead of coutersunk ones.
This means there is more material around the pivot ball and this adds the strength needed.

The chassis is changed so the 2 holes next to the front and rear pivot ball mounting holes are larger, to create room for the button head screws.

I'll see if I can post a picture...

Julius

Here's a pic of the bottom of the chassis change.

The two holes next to the pivot ball screw are larger, and you can just see the button head screws in the t-bar. (the screws are not the official ones, they will be hex head and slightly smaller).