SERPENT 120
#826
Tech Fanatic
Try opening up the large holes in the T bar that the pivot sockets fit into. Do this with some sandpaper and to a little at a time until the pivot ball sockets fit into the hole with out having to force them in. Take off a little at a time. Remember, you can always take off more but you can’t put it back. Do this until the pivot balls are free and smooth with the two screws in place. You may have to trial fit several times until you get just the right amount removed. Also, do not tighten down the two screws real tight. I just use my thumb and finger and tighten them until they are barley snug. It’s a feel thing. They will not back out as the screws are going into plastic/delrin.
#827
What do you mean by "when I mount the wheels and tighten the nuts"? How far are you tightening? The nuts should only be tightened to the point where the wheels still spin freely. So just losen the nut a bit until the wheel is spinning freely again...
If it's not about the nut being too tightened, check if the kingpin is not touching the inside of the wheel (this you might have to check anyway...)
Rgds,
Andy
If it's not about the nut being too tightened, check if the kingpin is not touching the inside of the wheel (this you might have to check anyway...)
Rgds,
Andy
I am worried that as soon as I've run a few laps one or both wheels are going to decide to travel in different directions to the rest of the car!!
Neither the king pin or the springclip is close to the inside of the rim.
Could it be the wheel itself? I'm using Jaco tyres.
#828
Tech Fanatic
I was tightening quite a bit. However the point at which the wheels stop turning freely is only where the shaft is about half way through the nut, i.e. the threaded portion has only just bit into the nylon inside the nut. At this point the wheels run freely, any further tightening and the whatever resistance increases to the point where the wheels will not turn unless with reasonable force applied.
I am worried that as soon as I've run a few laps one or both wheels are going to decide to travel in different directions to the rest of the car!!
Neither the king pin or the springclip is close to the inside of the rim.
Could it be the wheel itself? I'm using Jaco tyres.
I am worried that as soon as I've run a few laps one or both wheels are going to decide to travel in different directions to the rest of the car!!
Neither the king pin or the springclip is close to the inside of the rim.
Could it be the wheel itself? I'm using Jaco tyres.
#829
You are doing exactly the right thing. The axles need to be just a little longer. Hopfully in future production runs they will correct that. But, even with the nut only threaded on that much, I have never lost a wheel. I did shop around and found some smaller 3mm nuts which does allow the nut to go on a little more than the kit nuts before the wheel starts to bind.
#831
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
http://www.serpent.com/racing/setups/
#832
I was tightening quite a bit. However the point at which the wheels stop turning freely is only where the shaft is about half way through the nut, i.e. the threaded portion has only just bit into the nylon inside the nut. At this point the wheels run freely, any further tightening and the whatever resistance increases to the point where the wheels will not turn unless with reasonable force applied.
I am worried that as soon as I've run a few laps one or both wheels are going to decide to travel in different directions to the rest of the car!!
Neither the king pin or the springclip is close to the inside of the rim.
Could it be the wheel itself? I'm using Jaco tyres.
I am worried that as soon as I've run a few laps one or both wheels are going to decide to travel in different directions to the rest of the car!!
Neither the king pin or the springclip is close to the inside of the rim.
Could it be the wheel itself? I'm using Jaco tyres.
#833
Tech Rookie
#834
Tech Master
Hi mate, try putting the wheel nut on back to front, so that the nylock bit is closest to the bearing, that may help for now until you find your low profile nuts! Cheers, Chris.
#836
#837
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
I just ran my S120 for the first time last night and I'm extremely impressed. This is not my first 12th scale but it is the best handling I've had(Assoc. 12L3, L4, Trinity Switch Blade, and 12R5). Consistent from run to run, and never had to change the car. Not one broken part and yes I hit stuff.........HARD!!! Didn't even tweak. Just the best experience with 12th scale.
#838
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
I just ran my S120 for the first time last night and I'm extremely impressed. This is not my first 12th scale but it is the best handling I've had(Assoc. 12L3, L4, Trinity Switch Blade, and 12R5). Consistent from run to run, and never had to change the car. Not one broken part and yes I hit stuff.........HARD!!! Didn't even tweak. Just the best experience with 12th scale.
i hear many time that s120 is best handling than eg. 12r5...
i hope so...