Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Check the pics




This with the LRP motor.
With a GM you go under the belt and bend it upwards and tie it with a tierap to the stifner.

cheers Roy

Evoracer

iTrader: (24)

Thanks Roy. It appears the problem is related to specific motors. On my Novak for instance...the sensor wire is located at the lower left corner as you look at the endbell. As you can imagine that puts it right at the lower corner of the tensioner bulkhead. No where to go but through the belt and up.

Ginsu

iTrader: (9)

Dave has made it onto www.rctvlive.com twice now once for the Birds and now Vegas.....good job man!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

If you run the Novak Ballistic motors you won't have any problems. These new motors fit great with their new narrow end and new sensor wire placement.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

It's what I got.

Cammer

iTrader: (3)

The Orion is a little longer but still fits great. Through the brace and around.

RyeRey521

iTrader: (21)

Hello everyone.. I need to know what spares I should be looking to get at the same time I order my FS kit.. Im thinking obviously f/r arms but wolf doesnt have the E4FS front arms only the E4J.. I am guessing there the same thing but parts numbers are diffrent so just asking... Also what do you guys break so I can build up a little stock.. No one in probly a 500 mile radius from me has a E4 lol so if I break I want to be able to fix it... lol Thanks for the help in advance and hopfully I can turn some people onto the car...

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

I thought about the same thing when I bought my E4RS, so according to my previous experience, I bought suspension arms, C hubs, steering blocks and dog bones. That is the experience when I started playing touring car on the carpet track with HB Cyclone and Tamiya TA05. You know what so far I have not broken any parts in my E4, I may have improved my skill a bit, but I did hit the wall seriously few times, nothing happened. So if you have some experience driving other cars on your track and gradually stop from breaking parts, you should be fine without buying any thing. If you still want to buy some just in case you would break the car, use your previous experience

RyeRey521

iTrader: (21)

Thanks a lot man.. yea at our track It seems like all the fast guys.. when they do break stuff they are casterblocks, arms, and outdrives... All XRay if i may add... Ill go ahead and buy a single set of arms, knuckles, blocks f/r, and possible some outdrivesand if I don't need them then it will make selling it (when of ir I do) that much easier... Ha or maybe I just like to be one of those guys with bags full of spares lol... Thanks for your input forfun... I have only been racing for 2/3 months lol granted I really don't hit too much but I know the transition to Rubber touring will involve some walls lol

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

Be aware there are two different types of arms. There are the "foam" arms and the RS or "rubber spec" arms. The rubber spec arms give a little bit more suspension travel and help the car with the correct ride height with obviously rubber tires. The FS "foam spec" arms are beefier and raise the ride height a little because of the low height of foam tires.

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

You have PM.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Awesome. I know if I still ran touring car I would of bought a 2nd E4FS at the price Wolf had them for. What a deal on the car. I say that price and was like OMG!!!!!!!

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Dude, go Lipo. The E4 is best suited for it.

What motor are you using? I have a Losi Xcelorin in mine and have no problems routing the sensor wire over or under the battery cover. You just have to watch out at around the motor where the wire loops into the motor so that the looped wire sticking out doesn't hit the belts. Its best that you get a long sensor wire so that you have some slack to work with. Stormer Hobbies has some.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=LRP81910

Tamiya and others like it won't work. The E4 kinda carries over from the G4 which has some compatibility with the old Kyosho and Reflex gas cars. You will need to get a clamping hub for any of those nitro TC to work on the E4.
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...oducts_id=1479

If you don't want to go to that expense you can always use the 1mm wheel spacers that HPI has.

I use the 2413ICS low profile.

It fits perfectly on my JS. Plus its super smooth and has plenty of torque.
http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...=25&Itemid=127

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

LOL - C'mon man I know that. Which Lipo "pack" is what I was saying. Does anyone still use NiMh besides mod racers? Did he say that... "go Lipo"

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I just saw the word "Intellec" and all I can think of was those krapped out 4300s sitting on my shelf. I haven't gotten used to their name with Lipos yet.