Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Master
iTrader: (89)
Any big disadvantage to running the 03 vs the 05? Also what upgrades are considered to be must have, other than oil shocks and bearings? Thanks.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Some new Tamiya M05 kits (and bodies) coming soong
- Alfa Romeo MiTo (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58453).
- Honda S800 (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58454)
- Datsun 280zx (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=92213)
280zx body for sale on Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RCH=datsun+280)
- Alfa Romeo MiTo (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58453).
- Honda S800 (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58454)
- Datsun 280zx (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=92213)
280zx body for sale on Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RCH=datsun+280)
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 02-23-2010 at 09:58 AM.
i love the M03 but the M05 is nicer for me to drive , the M03 is an easy drive with a good set up but the M05 is more agressive on he steering and takes some getting used too
i set my fastest lap with the M03 but i am not far away with the M05
buy the M05 it is a great car
i set my fastest lap with the M03 but i am not far away with the M05
buy the M05 it is a great car
Get the M05. If for no other reason, then at least because it is the most evolved Tamiya M-chassis. The major difference is that the M05 can accept a TC-style balldiff which to me is a big improvement over the fiddly contraption they used since their M01 cars.
Everything else is just academic.
As for the upgrades, it depends on how you want to tune/prefer your cars, and what your regulations allow. Tamiya has a long list of upgrades, and they're all nice and neat, but rather costly by the time you add it all up (I know, for I bought the lot). I avoid however other brands as it has never worked for me, and some are just downright crap.
If you want to get rid of slop, you can try the steering upgrades and rear camber links, perhaps with better balljoints/cups like the Yokomo offerings (again to get rid of the slop). A good servo saver can again take away some grief as the Tamiya part is poorly designed. TRF mini shocks + springs are really nice and smooth and again offer some really nice tuning possibilities. The screw-type suspension hingepins are just nasty so I never use them. The option parts come with the little e-clips which bother some people, but I prefer that.
I also use the TC style balldiff because I mainly race TC and am used to building/tuning/doing maintenance on these. I find they lend themselves a lot better to fine tuning than the alternatives.
Tires/inserts themselves are an entirely different matter and here only testing at your track will decide what works best for you. The choice is huge, but there's plenty of info around on this.
Everything else is just academic.
As for the upgrades, it depends on how you want to tune/prefer your cars, and what your regulations allow. Tamiya has a long list of upgrades, and they're all nice and neat, but rather costly by the time you add it all up (I know, for I bought the lot). I avoid however other brands as it has never worked for me, and some are just downright crap.
If you want to get rid of slop, you can try the steering upgrades and rear camber links, perhaps with better balljoints/cups like the Yokomo offerings (again to get rid of the slop). A good servo saver can again take away some grief as the Tamiya part is poorly designed. TRF mini shocks + springs are really nice and smooth and again offer some really nice tuning possibilities. The screw-type suspension hingepins are just nasty so I never use them. The option parts come with the little e-clips which bother some people, but I prefer that.
I also use the TC style balldiff because I mainly race TC and am used to building/tuning/doing maintenance on these. I find they lend themselves a lot better to fine tuning than the alternatives.
Tires/inserts themselves are an entirely different matter and here only testing at your track will decide what works best for you. The choice is huge, but there's plenty of info around on this.
The TL01 balldiff works great in the M03 as well.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
The newer style bodies...from Tamiya....will fit on both the M03 or only the M05?? That may be reason enough to go M05!!! Someone will know!!!!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
It's been some time since I raced mini's....BUT.....I remember there always being tons o' stearing on the M03...typically we had issues with planting the rear end??? If the M05 has more steering......makes me wonder!!!
i love the M03 but the M05 is nicer for me to drive , the M03 is an easy drive with a good set up but the M05 is more agressive on he steering and takes some getting used too
i set my fastest lap with the M03 but i am not far away with the M05
buy the M05 it is a great car
i set my fastest lap with the M03 but i am not far away with the M05
buy the M05 it is a great car
less slop in the M05 too
for me, m05 has more rotational speed. smoother around corners.
if rear end needs to be more planted, maybe:
1. longer wheelbase (try an L).
2. rear camberlink position
3. 2deg toe in hub
4. ride height balance front to rear
5. traction compound balance
if rear end needs to be more planted, maybe:
1. longer wheelbase (try an L).
2. rear camberlink position
3. 2deg toe in hub
4. ride height balance front to rear
5. traction compound balance
Post race checking has revealed that the front left knuckle has bent. The plastic stock one.
I remember reading earlier in the thread someone else posting about this on their M05. I never bent one on my M01 in 2 years. The new track on Saturday did have horrible "kerbs" square blocks of wood and I did whack the front left corner on occasion. So I don't know for sure if the knuckle is weaker on the M05 or if it is susceptible to weakening from motor heat as the prior post discussed.
Question is do I fork out for a whole plastic tree for a new one, and possibly more in future, or do I put on the alu hop up I have (I forgot to get bearings for it prior to build) and risk it getting bent or transferring shock harshly elsewhere on the new horror "kurbs".
"Try missing the kurbs" is part of the plan
I remember reading earlier in the thread someone else posting about this on their M05. I never bent one on my M01 in 2 years. The new track on Saturday did have horrible "kerbs" square blocks of wood and I did whack the front left corner on occasion. So I don't know for sure if the knuckle is weaker on the M05 or if it is susceptible to weakening from motor heat as the prior post discussed.
Question is do I fork out for a whole plastic tree for a new one, and possibly more in future, or do I put on the alu hop up I have (I forgot to get bearings for it prior to build) and risk it getting bent or transferring shock harshly elsewhere on the new horror "kurbs".
"Try missing the kurbs" is part of the plan
Get the M05. If for no other reason, then at least because it is the most evolved Tamiya M-chassis. The major difference is that the M05 can accept a TC-style balldiff which to me is a big improvement over the fiddly contraption they used since their M01 cars.
Everything else is just academic.
As for the upgrades, it depends on how you want to tune/prefer your cars, and what your regulations allow. Tamiya has a long list of upgrades, and they're all nice and neat, but rather costly by the time you add it all up (I know, for I bought the lot). I avoid however other brands as it has never worked for me, and some are just downright crap.
If you want to get rid of slop, you can try the steering upgrades and rear camber links, perhaps with better balljoints/cups like the Yokomo offerings (again to get rid of the slop). A good servo saver can again take away some grief as the Tamiya part is poorly designed. TRF mini shocks + springs are really nice and smooth and again offer some really nice tuning possibilities. The screw-type suspension hingepins are just nasty so I never use them. The option parts come with the little e-clips which bother some people, but I prefer that.
I also use the TC style balldiff because I mainly race TC and am used to building/tuning/doing maintenance on these. I find they lend themselves a lot better to fine tuning than the alternatives.
Tires/inserts themselves are an entirely different matter and here only testing at your track will decide what works best for you. The choice is huge, but there's plenty of info around on this.
Everything else is just academic.
As for the upgrades, it depends on how you want to tune/prefer your cars, and what your regulations allow. Tamiya has a long list of upgrades, and they're all nice and neat, but rather costly by the time you add it all up (I know, for I bought the lot). I avoid however other brands as it has never worked for me, and some are just downright crap.
If you want to get rid of slop, you can try the steering upgrades and rear camber links, perhaps with better balljoints/cups like the Yokomo offerings (again to get rid of the slop). A good servo saver can again take away some grief as the Tamiya part is poorly designed. TRF mini shocks + springs are really nice and smooth and again offer some really nice tuning possibilities. The screw-type suspension hingepins are just nasty so I never use them. The option parts come with the little e-clips which bother some people, but I prefer that.
I also use the TC style balldiff because I mainly race TC and am used to building/tuning/doing maintenance on these. I find they lend themselves a lot better to fine tuning than the alternatives.
Tires/inserts themselves are an entirely different matter and here only testing at your track will decide what works best for you. The choice is huge, but there's plenty of info around on this.
I was about to get the 05 but suddenly I came across the 03R Blue Edition and it looks so delicious lol.
When you say TC Balldiff, does it mean that the Hot Bodies TC ball diff fits perfectly for the 05 but not the 03? Why dont we use Tamiya Ball diff I think the TA03 ones fit.
The Tamiya M-05 ball diff is externally adjustable , like a tc and has replaceable blades too.
Seems to work fine built per the instructions, with Anti Wear grease.
Just need to make sure you "feel " the bolt tension as you nip it up.
I had an M-03 for a couple of months once and sold it.
Had the M-05 now for six months or so now, It is pretty good now.
Tyres and ride height are everything , IMHO.
Seems to work fine built per the instructions, with Anti Wear grease.
Just need to make sure you "feel " the bolt tension as you nip it up.
I had an M-03 for a couple of months once and sold it.
Had the M-05 now for six months or so now, It is pretty good now.
Tyres and ride height are everything , IMHO.