Tamiya mini cooper
#9631
I'm guessing all 4 corners, and the [now open] gearbox, but I get your point.
#9632
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Actually Gaz,
I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!
I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!
#9634
Actually Gaz,
I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!
I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!
#9636
I usually run the steel balls, and I sand the diff plates with 1500 grit sand paper from time to time
#9638
#9639
Tech Master
Actually Gaz,
I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!
I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!
#9640
bjspinner,
I took the M chassis TRF's off my MO3 and fitted them directly to my MO5. I am running the following:
Front
3 hole piston
50 wt oil
Blue TRF short spring
Rear
3 hole piston
40 wt oil
Yellow TRF short spring.
I have also used TRF short yellow springs F/R and TRF short Blue TRF springs F/R. It depends on the grip levels of your track. I will in the future be trying other spring combinations with added weight to the car.
With the HW 13T BL systems we use, the light weight of the car, hinders getting enough forward traction, to accelerate hard out of the corners. Presently my car is at 1348 gms and I will be trying to bring this up to at least 1450 gms. This weight I want to place over the front for more traction and balance out the extra weight added to the rear by the relocation of the servo.
I also found building the ball diff as described was not tight enough for me so I left the three large cone washers and the two small cone washers, replaced the thrust washer with the 1150 bearing and was heaps tighter. The other way is to leave the thrust bearing and add another large cone washer.
This is just my opinion.
Regards,
Calvin.
I took the M chassis TRF's off my MO3 and fitted them directly to my MO5. I am running the following:
Front
3 hole piston
50 wt oil
Blue TRF short spring
Rear
3 hole piston
40 wt oil
Yellow TRF short spring.
I have also used TRF short yellow springs F/R and TRF short Blue TRF springs F/R. It depends on the grip levels of your track. I will in the future be trying other spring combinations with added weight to the car.
With the HW 13T BL systems we use, the light weight of the car, hinders getting enough forward traction, to accelerate hard out of the corners. Presently my car is at 1348 gms and I will be trying to bring this up to at least 1450 gms. This weight I want to place over the front for more traction and balance out the extra weight added to the rear by the relocation of the servo.
I also found building the ball diff as described was not tight enough for me so I left the three large cone washers and the two small cone washers, replaced the thrust washer with the 1150 bearing and was heaps tighter. The other way is to leave the thrust bearing and add another large cone washer.
This is just my opinion.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 07-29-2009 at 12:09 AM.
#9641
Tech Apprentice
M05 Aluminum Pro Parts
I have lots of On Road TC experience, but now I'm looking to get in on the Mini Mania.
I've decided to purchase an M05 when my hobby shop gets them in next month. I have already picked up a set of the Tamiya M-Chassis shocks, and universals. I still need to get a set of bearings.
My question is, do the aluminum front and rear uprights included on the M05 Pro kit provide a performance advantage over the plastic uprights included in the M05 standard kit?
I've decided to purchase an M05 when my hobby shop gets them in next month. I have already picked up a set of the Tamiya M-Chassis shocks, and universals. I still need to get a set of bearings.
My question is, do the aluminum front and rear uprights included on the M05 Pro kit provide a performance advantage over the plastic uprights included in the M05 standard kit?
#9642
DEACON,
MO5 PRO does not come with aluminum front knuckles, these are a Tamiya Hop up purchased seperately. These do offer you three holes for steering linkage adjustment. The rear alloy hubs also have two holes which allow you to run differnt rear camber points. These are also another Tamiya Hop up part. if you decide to go this option then these use 1050 wheel bearings.
The plastic parts in the MO5 kit use 1150 bearings. I have not used the plastic parts on my MO5. I fitted the alloy from day one, so I can not make comparisons. Part numbers for the alloy bits are in this thread a few pages back.
Regards,
Calvin.
MO5 PRO does not come with aluminum front knuckles, these are a Tamiya Hop up purchased seperately. These do offer you three holes for steering linkage adjustment. The rear alloy hubs also have two holes which allow you to run differnt rear camber points. These are also another Tamiya Hop up part. if you decide to go this option then these use 1050 wheel bearings.
The plastic parts in the MO5 kit use 1150 bearings. I have not used the plastic parts on my MO5. I fitted the alloy from day one, so I can not make comparisons. Part numbers for the alloy bits are in this thread a few pages back.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9643
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
bjspinner,
I took the M chassis TRF's off my MO3 and fitted them directly to my MO5. I am running the following:
Front
3 hole piston
50 wt oil
Blue TRF short spring
Rear
3 hole piston
40 wt oil
Yellow TRF short spring.
I have also used TRF short yellow springs F/R and TRF short Blue TRF springs F/R. It depends on the grip levels of your track. I will in the future be trying other spring combinations with added weight to the car.
With the HW 13T BL systems we use, the light weight of the car, hiders getting enough forward traction, to accelerate hard out of the corners. Presently my car is at 1348 gms and I will be trying to bring this up to at least 1450 gms. This weight I want to place over thefront for more traction and balance out the extra weight added to the rear by the relocation of the servo.
I also found building the ball diff as described was not tight enough for me so I left the three large cone washers and the two small cone washers, replaced the thrust washer with the 1150 bearing and was heaps tighter. The other way is to leave the thrust bearingand add another large cone washer.
This is just my opinion.
Regards,
Calvin.
I took the M chassis TRF's off my MO3 and fitted them directly to my MO5. I am running the following:
Front
3 hole piston
50 wt oil
Blue TRF short spring
Rear
3 hole piston
40 wt oil
Yellow TRF short spring.
I have also used TRF short yellow springs F/R and TRF short Blue TRF springs F/R. It depends on the grip levels of your track. I will in the future be trying other spring combinations with added weight to the car.
With the HW 13T BL systems we use, the light weight of the car, hiders getting enough forward traction, to accelerate hard out of the corners. Presently my car is at 1348 gms and I will be trying to bring this up to at least 1450 gms. This weight I want to place over thefront for more traction and balance out the extra weight added to the rear by the relocation of the servo.
I also found building the ball diff as described was not tight enough for me so I left the three large cone washers and the two small cone washers, replaced the thrust washer with the 1150 bearing and was heaps tighter. The other way is to leave the thrust bearingand add another large cone washer.
This is just my opinion.
Regards,
Calvin.
#9644
I have been trying to read through this thread and I'm a bit confused. Why do they sell the M03 if the M05 is out? My LHS is ordering some Mini's this week and I would like to pick one up. Im not even sure what they are ordering. Should I call to specific ask that an M05 be ordered for me? Is there a big difference between the M03 and 05 that a novice would notice? Is either one competitive with each other?
Oh and what about the newer body style 03L? They have one of those in stock.
Oh and what about the newer body style 03L? They have one of those in stock.
Last edited by CSaddict; 07-28-2009 at 06:38 PM.
#9645
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
a lot of people still use the MO3 since the M05 is fairly new hence the abundance of MO3 parts and kits at LHS.
i recommend you read this link to find out the differences between the MO3 vs the MO5 and see the advantages of the latter over the former:
http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/
happy reading
i recommend you read this link to find out the differences between the MO3 vs the MO5 and see the advantages of the latter over the former:
http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/
happy reading