Tamiya Ta06
#2057
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
RE: TA06 final drive ratio
I've skimmed the posts and it seems that most people are running an FDR about 4.0 in 17.5. Any of you having success without thermal problems ?
I'm running a Viper VTX10 and their 17.5. My original gear choice was a 96 spur and a 51 pinion for an fdr of 4.085. I ran with no motor timing and no boost. On a typical, hot 90 deg day, I was only able to put down about 8-9 laps before thermal protection kicks in.
Next I tried gearing down to 96/49. Still overheating. Car seems fine. I don't have any particular drivetrain binding that I can notice. However, it is not as free as my TB03, but that is expected with a belt drive setup right?
My speed on the long straight was already a bit slower than I'd like so I'd prefer not to keep gearing down.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I've skimmed the posts and it seems that most people are running an FDR about 4.0 in 17.5. Any of you having success without thermal problems ?
I'm running a Viper VTX10 and their 17.5. My original gear choice was a 96 spur and a 51 pinion for an fdr of 4.085. I ran with no motor timing and no boost. On a typical, hot 90 deg day, I was only able to put down about 8-9 laps before thermal protection kicks in.
Next I tried gearing down to 96/49. Still overheating. Car seems fine. I don't have any particular drivetrain binding that I can notice. However, it is not as free as my TB03, but that is expected with a belt drive setup right?
My speed on the long straight was already a bit slower than I'd like so I'd prefer not to keep gearing down.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
#2058
You can make a hole in the chassis underneath the motor. Then attach a fan right above the motor. Should help a bit!
#2059
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
I noticed when I ran the Viper 17.5 that it ran kinda hot and also that compared to most other 17.5 motors the kv rating is lower than most other faster 17.5 motors that are out.
You want a high out put fan that either runs off your receiver at 6 volts or the better fans that are capable of running at 8.4 volts that you wire into your speedo where you plug the battery in. This will lower your temps a ton. From my other Tamiya cars you will want to run that belt as loose as possible will also help with freeing up the drive train.
I'm geared at 3.88 overall with my VBC Wildfire and I use a 6 volt fan on my Thunder Power 17.5 with the motor timing set right at 35 degrees and my temps are 156 degrees after a 6 minute race.
I would really like to try one a TA)6 on a Exotek or VBC graphite chassis setup and see how it compares to my current car.
You want a high out put fan that either runs off your receiver at 6 volts or the better fans that are capable of running at 8.4 volts that you wire into your speedo where you plug the battery in. This will lower your temps a ton. From my other Tamiya cars you will want to run that belt as loose as possible will also help with freeing up the drive train.
I'm geared at 3.88 overall with my VBC Wildfire and I use a 6 volt fan on my Thunder Power 17.5 with the motor timing set right at 35 degrees and my temps are 156 degrees after a 6 minute race.
I would really like to try one a TA)6 on a Exotek or VBC graphite chassis setup and see how it compares to my current car.
#2060
Thanks for the replies.
I have a fan over the motor running off the receiver. Should have mentioned it in the original post. Also, I believe it's the motor that is thermal-ing. It is noticeably hot and the esc seems fine. However, I haven't been able to verify on my PC yet (no USB cable to connect and run diagnostics).
I will try the other two ideas though: loosening the main belt and making some holes under the motor.
If that doesn't work, I'll try another motor/esc and maybe just rebuild the whole car to check for any drivetrain binding I may have missed.
Thanks again.
Paul
I have a fan over the motor running off the receiver. Should have mentioned it in the original post. Also, I believe it's the motor that is thermal-ing. It is noticeably hot and the esc seems fine. However, I haven't been able to verify on my PC yet (no USB cable to connect and run diagnostics).
I will try the other two ideas though: loosening the main belt and making some holes under the motor.
If that doesn't work, I'll try another motor/esc and maybe just rebuild the whole car to check for any drivetrain binding I may have missed.
Thanks again.
Paul
#2062
Yes, the F and R lights were blinknig with the N light off. Thanks for that info.
#2063
Tech Regular
iTrader: (45)
Selling a full set of Eagle racing chassis and aluminium option parts.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ion-parts.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ion-parts.html
#2065
Tech Fanatic
Parts Standard kit parts carbon reinf.parts
Front damper stay (J2) 7,7gr 6,2gr
Rear damper stay (J1) 9,0gr 6,9gr
Front lower bulkhead (A4&A5) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Rear lower bulkheads (A2&A3) 5,3gr 4,6gr
Rear upper brace (A9&A10) 7,2gr 6,4gr
Front upper bulkhead (A8) 6,6gr 5,7gr
Rear upper bulkhead (A11) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Front damper mount (A1) 2,4gr 2,0gr
Front damper brace (A6&A7) 10,8gr 9,4gr
Differential gear housing (T1&T2) 22,0gr 20,0gr
Chassis 99,0 102,0gr
Hope this helps
There are still other parts then can be replaced with original tamiya parts for even more weight saving
#2066
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Here is a list of weight differences
Parts Standard kit parts carbon reinf.parts
Front damper stay (J2) 7,7gr 6,2gr
Rear damper stay (J1) 9,0gr 6,9gr
Front lower bulkhead (A4&A5) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Rear lower bulkheads (A2&A3) 5,3gr 4,6gr
Rear upper brace (A9&A10) 7,2gr 6,4gr
Front upper bulkhead (A8) 6,6gr 5,7gr
Rear upper bulkhead (A11) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Front damper mount (A1) 2,4gr 2,0gr
Front damper brace (A6&A7) 10,8gr 9,4gr
Differential gear housing (T1&T2) 22,0gr 20,0gr
Chassis 99,0 102,0gr
Hope this helps
There are still other parts then can be replaced with original tamiya parts for even more weight saving
Parts Standard kit parts carbon reinf.parts
Front damper stay (J2) 7,7gr 6,2gr
Rear damper stay (J1) 9,0gr 6,9gr
Front lower bulkhead (A4&A5) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Rear lower bulkheads (A2&A3) 5,3gr 4,6gr
Rear upper brace (A9&A10) 7,2gr 6,4gr
Front upper bulkhead (A8) 6,6gr 5,7gr
Rear upper bulkhead (A11) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Front damper mount (A1) 2,4gr 2,0gr
Front damper brace (A6&A7) 10,8gr 9,4gr
Differential gear housing (T1&T2) 22,0gr 20,0gr
Chassis 99,0 102,0gr
Hope this helps
There are still other parts then can be replaced with original tamiya parts for even more weight saving
#2067
Tech Fanatic
Thanks! That was really helpful to know how much weight I'm actually saving by using the carbon parts. It looks like only the carbon reinforced chassis is heavier than the stock one? Or was that just a mistake? I already went ahead and ordered all the carbon reinforced parts except for the battery door.
I'm using the carbon reinforced chassis for carpet and the standard one for outdoor.
#2068
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Does anyone know which spur gears are a direct fit? I'm trying to gear my car to get the FDR down to around 3.8 to 4.2. I bought a 48 pitch 84T spur gear but I can only use two mounting holes. Then I bought a 45T pinion gear to get the FDR to about 4.0 and then out during assembly that it won't work because its too big and there's not enough room to move the motor back to mount the gears.
#2069
so buying all that carbon reinforced parts saves you +- 10gr ? an costs so much money...?
I'd say get yourself a lightweight battery that way you can save up to 100 grams or more !
this weekend we used 96 spur and 49-51 pinions in the tamiya benelux cup so the ratio was 4.25 - 4.08
I'd say get yourself a lightweight battery that way you can save up to 100 grams or more !
this weekend we used 96 spur and 49-51 pinions in the tamiya benelux cup so the ratio was 4.25 - 4.08