86LikesHpi Pro 4
10-05-2004, 06:43 PM
#7861
Tech Adept
Re: Dont be fooled by the name!!
Originally posted by QuickyTC3
Hey Guys. I just went to the dark side... I was impressed by the Pro-4 Kit so I decided to go for it. I am very glad I did. I still love my TC3 but this car is SWEEEET!! I Tq'd right out of the box... very pleased.. I was wondering if any of you guys have found a good system for taking the motor in/out of the car. I was having a hard time with that this weekend... With the rear suspension being in the way and all. I know there might be something about that somewhere on this thread..but dont have time to look through it all!
Thanks in advance for any responses.
-Brett (Quicky Pro-4)
Hey Guys. I just went to the dark side... I was impressed by the Pro-4 Kit so I decided to go for it. I am very glad I did. I still love my TC3 but this car is SWEEEET!! I Tq'd right out of the box... very pleased.. I was wondering if any of you guys have found a good system for taking the motor in/out of the car. I was having a hard time with that this weekend... With the rear suspension being in the way and all. I know there might be something about that somewhere on this thread..but dont have time to look through it all!
Thanks in advance for any responses.
-Brett (Quicky Pro-4)
10-05-2004, 06:49 PM
#7862
Tech Adept
Originally posted by robk
HPI Ninja Death Squad:
K Kane
R King
E "Euge" Sia
J Zorc
M "goop" Dienes (sp?)
That's the guys from Chicago, not sure if there will be any others..
HPI Ninja Death Squad:
K Kane
R King
E "Euge" Sia
J Zorc
M "goop" Dienes (sp?)
That's the guys from Chicago, not sure if there will be any others..
But I will be at the Indoor Champs
10-05-2004, 07:25 PM
#7863
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
artwork- i filed down the top side of the inner camberlink brace so it no longer touches the top deck, because both the front and rear ones were sitting much too high, causing the topdeck to bow over them when tightend down.
then so that the top deck isnt pulled down onto them with them now being lower than where the top deck sits, i opened out the 4 counter sunk holes (2 front, 2 rear) on the top deck where the screws go down into the camber link braces. as per the pictures posted above.
using 4 button head screws the inner camber link braces are now held firmly in place without interfering with the top deck.
finally i noticed that when i had all of the scews partially threaded into the top deck that it was 'free' to wobble a little on the screws untill i put either of the 2 steering post scews in.
this seemed to be causing alot of tweak, so i opened out the 2 holes for the steering posts slowly and carefully so that the topdeck would be 'free' with all the screws for the top deck partially threaded in.
prior to doing this the car required massive pre-loads on the left rear shock when setting the tweak... more than any weight imbalance would ever require. also droop was way out left to right when set on 10mm blocks and then checked with droop gauge, etc.
now everyhting is sweet.
the car was and driveable before and set fast times etc, but just didnt feel right...
now it does, it feels like a transformed car - much more neutral feeling making it alot easier to drive.
then so that the top deck isnt pulled down onto them with them now being lower than where the top deck sits, i opened out the 4 counter sunk holes (2 front, 2 rear) on the top deck where the screws go down into the camber link braces. as per the pictures posted above.
using 4 button head screws the inner camber link braces are now held firmly in place without interfering with the top deck.
finally i noticed that when i had all of the scews partially threaded into the top deck that it was 'free' to wobble a little on the screws untill i put either of the 2 steering post scews in.
this seemed to be causing alot of tweak, so i opened out the 2 holes for the steering posts slowly and carefully so that the topdeck would be 'free' with all the screws for the top deck partially threaded in.
prior to doing this the car required massive pre-loads on the left rear shock when setting the tweak... more than any weight imbalance would ever require. also droop was way out left to right when set on 10mm blocks and then checked with droop gauge, etc.
now everyhting is sweet.
the car was and driveable before and set fast times etc, but just didnt feel right...
now it does, it feels like a transformed car - much more neutral feeling making it alot easier to drive.
10-05-2004, 08:08 PM
#7864
Originally posted by Kevin K
No he didnt....lol....
.....besides that was a list of guys going to the Gate this weekend. Are you going Brian? It seems like a bunch of the guys jumped at the last second to go so maybe you did as well?
Quicky.....get yourself a 2.5mm ball driver makes it much easier to get the motor in and out.
No he didnt....lol....
.....besides that was a list of guys going to the Gate this weekend. Are you going Brian? It seems like a bunch of the guys jumped at the last second to go so maybe you did as well?Quicky.....get yourself a 2.5mm ball driver makes it much easier to get the motor in and out.
No I'm not going to the Classic, wish I could.
I'll get that ball driver, I noticed that is kinda hard...
10-05-2004, 08:19 PM
#7865
Originally posted by tones
artwork- i filed down the top side of the inner camberlink brace so it no longer touches the top deck, because both the front and rear ones were sitting much too high, causing the topdeck to bow over them when tightend down.
then so that the top deck isnt pulled down onto them with them now being lower than where the top deck sits, i opened out the 4 counter sunk holes (2 front, 2 rear) on the top deck where the screws go down into the camber link braces. as per the pictures posted above.
using 4 button head screws the inner camber link braces are now held firmly in place without interfering with the top deck.
finally i noticed that when i had all of the scews partially threaded into the top deck that it was 'free' to wobble a little on the screws untill i put either of the 2 steering post scews in.
this seemed to be causing alot of tweak, so i opened out the 2 holes for the steering posts slowly and carefully so that the topdeck would be 'free' with all the screws for the top deck partially threaded in.
prior to doing this the car required massive pre-loads on the left rear shock when setting the tweak... more than any weight imbalance would ever require. also droop was way out left to right when set on 10mm blocks and then checked with droop gauge, etc.
now everyhting is sweet.
the car was and driveable before and set fast times etc, but just didnt feel right...
now it does, it feels like a transformed car - much more neutral feeling making it alot easier to drive.
artwork- i filed down the top side of the inner camberlink brace so it no longer touches the top deck, because both the front and rear ones were sitting much too high, causing the topdeck to bow over them when tightend down.
then so that the top deck isnt pulled down onto them with them now being lower than where the top deck sits, i opened out the 4 counter sunk holes (2 front, 2 rear) on the top deck where the screws go down into the camber link braces. as per the pictures posted above.
using 4 button head screws the inner camber link braces are now held firmly in place without interfering with the top deck.
finally i noticed that when i had all of the scews partially threaded into the top deck that it was 'free' to wobble a little on the screws untill i put either of the 2 steering post scews in.
this seemed to be causing alot of tweak, so i opened out the 2 holes for the steering posts slowly and carefully so that the topdeck would be 'free' with all the screws for the top deck partially threaded in.
prior to doing this the car required massive pre-loads on the left rear shock when setting the tweak... more than any weight imbalance would ever require. also droop was way out left to right when set on 10mm blocks and then checked with droop gauge, etc.
now everyhting is sweet.
the car was and driveable before and set fast times etc, but just didnt feel right...
now it does, it feels like a transformed car - much more neutral feeling making it alot easier to drive.
10-05-2004, 09:05 PM
#7866
Good lord, not you too..."
"But but but...Nexus said my application was under review!
No I'm not going to the Classic, wish I could.
I'll get that ball driver, I noticed that is kinda hard..."
MUAHHAHAAAHAHAHA!!! Soon, it will be purple as far as the eye can see around Chicago!! HAHAHAHAAA!!!
"But but but...Nexus said my application was under review!
No I'm not going to the Classic, wish I could.
I'll get that ball driver, I noticed that is kinda hard..."
MUAHHAHAAAHAHAHA!!! Soon, it will be purple as far as the eye can see around Chicago!! HAHAHAHAAA!!!
10-05-2004, 10:07 PM
#7868
I heard that Erik's Pro4 could do the Kessel run in 23.1 parsecs...that's not bad for a 1/10 electric touring car!
10-05-2004, 10:42 PM
#7869
.. I was wondering if any of you guys have found a good system for taking the motor in/out of the car.
as everyone was saying.......ballhead hex.
euge also suggested try holding the car upright so the screws "fall into" place easier. once you do it a few times it gets easier.
10-05-2004, 10:45 PM
#7870
Funny is Funny
Did Someone Just Buy the DVD's that were released
Last edited by TRESFR; 10-05-2004 at 10:52 PM.
10-05-2004, 11:58 PM
#7871
Tech Master
Race Report 10/5
Hi guys, just came back from a night asphalt rubber race.
1st Heat: Everything went great. My new Futaba 9550 is super responsive matched up with my Helios. I finished 3rd in that.
2nd Heat: Everything went great until there was some hacking. For some reason the ball stud on my alum knuckle fell off. Stripped? Don't know. I finished the race, however after I brought the car in I saw that the front 4L hub was broken. The front CVD Bones (Tobee Craft) were also bent. I believed this problem has been addressed before?
Main: Everything went extremely smooth. I was on a pace of 2nd place. However, I got hacked again, and then there was a lack of turn marshalls as well. I dropped down to 4th or 5th place. I made it up at the end however. I was on a 3rd place pace. Then I was hacked between 2 cars (funny though), but I finished 3rd.
Overall great race!
1st Heat: Everything went great. My new Futaba 9550 is super responsive matched up with my Helios. I finished 3rd in that.
2nd Heat: Everything went great until there was some hacking. For some reason the ball stud on my alum knuckle fell off. Stripped? Don't know. I finished the race, however after I brought the car in I saw that the front 4L hub was broken. The front CVD Bones (Tobee Craft) were also bent. I believed this problem has been addressed before?
Main: Everything went extremely smooth. I was on a pace of 2nd place. However, I got hacked again, and then there was a lack of turn marshalls as well. I dropped down to 4th or 5th place. I made it up at the end however. I was on a 3rd place pace. Then I was hacked between 2 cars (funny though), but I finished 3rd.
Overall great race!
10-06-2004, 05:27 AM
#7872
QUICK QUESTION
can i use the associated screw, nut and spring for the tc3 diff mod on the pro4?
can i purchase these parts of someone? i tryed using the nitro parts (all i could get my hands on) but it doesn't seem to work
can i purchase these parts of someone? i tryed using the nitro parts (all i could get my hands on) but it doesn't seem to work
10-06-2004, 08:12 AM
#7873
Re: QUICK QUESTION
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
can i use the associated screw, nut and spring for the tc3 diff mod on the pro4?
can i use the associated screw, nut and spring for the tc3 diff mod on the pro4?
yes...i've done this with my diff and it solved a lot of my problems...right kev/euge LOL just remember to put the spring in.....doh...don't ask LOL
10-06-2004, 08:32 AM
#7874
Originally posted by robk
ps. to all they guys running carpet/foam- The Kevin K setup kicks ass. I got away from it for a little bit, and now have come back. Try it and you'll see why.
ps. to all they guys running carpet/foam- The Kevin K setup kicks ass. I got away from it for a little bit, and now have come back. Try it and you'll see why.
10-06-2004, 09:39 AM
#7875
Tech Apprentice
bmi on foam carpet help.
I need help with my setup on foam tires I have a BMI chassis, And my car is why to aggressive using the stock setup for foam tires. I need help. 