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Old 10-17-2008, 11:44 AM   #3016
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This will undoubtedly sound pretty dumb, but...

If you're using one of the Square lower bumpers, keep an eye on it and make sure it's not rubbing on the racing surface. They tend to bend downward with use and impacts, and will eventually begin to rub. If your car stops turning after a front impact, this could be the culprit. :-)
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:13 PM   #3017
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so dose anyone have the carpet set up for Vages for the 416???
anyone???
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Old 10-18-2008, 12:49 AM   #3018
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I have bought a second hand 416. The previous owner has made the conversion to the shorter A-arms and has build it with the Jilles groskamp-setup.
He has never driven the car and sold it with a lot of parts ... my luck.

However, ... this is my first Carbon-chassis-car and I still have a lot to learn.
So I was considering to rebuild the car to a more standard set-up, just to have a good start from there, as I am far from an experienced driver-mechanic and have a lot to learn on how to tune a car.

I will be competing in stock-competitions (27T-motors) on carpet track with medium grip so I thought the car would better equiped with the One-way. I prefer driving a One-way over a direct coupling (which we seem to call a spool over here).

Should I start with the manual-setup? Or is there a (short-Arms) set-up that will be a better as starting position?
I 've lookd into the set-up-section on http://www.thard.co.uk/ and found the setup from Chris Vanderhagen, which also uses a One-way for his 19T-setup.
Would this be a not-so-critical set-up, good to start with?

A friend of mine (Grooveman), with loads of experience told me I'd better begin with the manual-setup, so I will follow his advice, but it would be nice to have a back-up plan (as this friend is not always arround when tuning my car ) and since I have the parts for the short-arms-conversion anyway?
So ... all advice much appreciated!
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:05 AM   #3019
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Mostly likely, you will be unhappy with the manual set up and end up needing to make a number of changes. You have to understand what the changes you make will do to the car in order to make it handle better. So, if you are most concerned with learning, then I'd say to go with the manual setup.
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Old 10-18-2008, 11:53 AM   #3020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HI_808 View Post
Mostly likely, you will be unhappy with the manual set up and end up needing to make a number of changes. You have to understand what the changes you make will do to the car in order to make it handle better. So, if you are most concerned with learning, then I'd say to go with the manual setup.
In general I'd agree, hoiwever, I'm always willing to try a car the way it is, if I were you, I'd at least try it with the short-arm setup first & see how you like it(you never know, it might suit you), & be prepared to go long-arm if you feel it neccessary....
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Old 10-18-2008, 01:14 PM   #3021
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In general I'd agree, hoiwever, I'm always willing to try a car the way it is, if I were you, I'd at least try it with the short-arm setup first & see how you like it(you never know, it might suit you), & be prepared to go long-arm if you feel it neccessary....
mmm, ok, but WHAT short-Arms-set-up should I use then, as a starting point.
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Old 10-18-2008, 01:48 PM   #3022
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the tray looks good... do you have any pics of it installed?
These are some pics of a LiPo tray installed in my 416.

Ben
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-tray1.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-tray2.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-tray3.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-tray4.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:44 PM   #3023
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mmm, ok, but WHAT short-Arms-set-up should I use then, as a starting point.
Try starting here. It's been working for me for a while. I'm using the 2.5 chassis, but the 2.25 is pretty close. Hope this helps.
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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-trf416_101008_360.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2008, 10:12 PM   #3024
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Try starting here. It's been working for me for a while. I'm using the 2.5 chassis, but the 2.25 is pretty close. Hope this helps.
That is a very solid setup to start with. I would stick to the 4mm hex hub up front and no wheel spacer though as D/D with the 5mm hub will be a wider track than XA/E at the rear. Also if it's too steery go back to 3mm of ackerman

Edit: just saw the 60/50 oil split which explains the ackerman. 50/50 with the 3mm ackerman would also work pretty well
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Old 10-19-2008, 01:03 AM   #3025
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Sohlman, CraigM, thx guys,

I've been asking these questions on different fora. You guys are the first to give me some useful, to-the-point answers

I will definitely try this set-up as a starting point.


but as I am still learning ... could you explain me how one can change ackerman? I am not able to find anything about "ackermann" o the set-up-sheet but I guess, if I learned correctly, this is done by switching the steering rod-connection to a different hole on the steering block?

About "5mm hex hub". I only have the standard 4mm Hex wheel hubs. I guess I could use those and add a spacer? ... Or just use the 4mm, as CraigM says

Also, I learned from some veteran tamiya-racers, that the Tamiya-shocks should be 62mm long, so I always build them that way on my previous TA05. Why did you choose to make them 61.5mm? Does it make a (big) difference?

And then I have yet another question. The building manual mentions you should not spray the belts with some products. But somewhere else I've read that it helps to spray some WD40 on a cloth and to wipe the belts with it and that it helps to smoothing the belts.
My belts are brand new. I thougt it might help to loosen them up or is it something that has to be avoided?

@ Sohlman:

How did you add the extra weight on the Lipo? As a lead sheet on top of the Lipo?
Did you use some more lead or weight in other positions on the chassis?
What brand of oil were you using? Was it Losi oil?

and ... if I might still add these questions
Do you have this set-up-sheet also in a greater resolution?
How do you make this (very clear) digital set-up-sheets?

Again, THX! for previous advice ...
and thx in advance for helping me out with my other questions.
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Last edited by Low_E; 10-19-2008 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 10-19-2008, 01:05 AM   #3026
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Default rear toe settings

Good day!

I have a question regarding rear toe settings. I am running my car on a tight and technical track with a short straight. I would like to ask which settings will suit best on this kind of track, a rear toe in of 3.0 deg or 2.5 deg?

thanks!
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Old 10-19-2008, 06:06 AM   #3027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_E View Post
@ Sohlman:

How did you add the extra weight on the Lipo? As a lead sheet on top of the Lipo?
Did you use some more lead or weight in other positions on the chassis?
What brand of oil were you using? Was it Losi oil?

and ... if I might still add these questions
Do you have this set-up-sheet also in a greater resolution?
How do you make this (very clear) digital set-up-sheets?

Again, THX! for previous advice ...
and thx in advance for helping me out with my other questions.
I use a PPD EZ-Lipo battery tray (www.ppdbillet.com) with lead weight strips on the side (see the orange blocks on set up sheet). I also added 15 gr extra to balance it left-to-right. I use Trinity shock oil. The set up sheet was created and modified in Illustrator CS3. I'll post a larger version in a little while.
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Old 10-19-2008, 01:22 PM   #3028
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and how do you attach this lipo-tray into the 416? With tape?
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Old 10-19-2008, 01:56 PM   #3029
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and how do you attach this lipo-tray into the 416? With tape?
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Old 10-19-2008, 04:43 PM   #3030
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Low_E, ackerman is best adjusted by adding or removing spacers from the inner steering rod ball mounts. More spacers = greater ackerman effect. You can change where the balls are on the knuckle but from what I've heard there is a huge difference between the two holes, plus I've never seen any setups using the front one - my square knuckles have a 3rd hole inbetween but I've never tried that either. Don't spray anything on your belts either, I've had my car for months now and I'm still on the original belts, I just put them in and went racing.

Beserk is your track carpet or asphalt? I'd start with 3 degrees and go from there, I race on a pretty tight asphalt track and 3 degrees is just right
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