Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#3002
#3003
#3004
In the case i wish using 2 holes piston but with smaller holes in my trf shock.
But as i know frm RC square there are 2 types:
STV-12P2
TGE-12P-2
Could someguy tell me which 1 is common for the latest generation shock, please?
Best regards
But as i know frm RC square there are 2 types:
STV-12P2
TGE-12P-2
Could someguy tell me which 1 is common for the latest generation shock, please?
Best regards
#3005
#3006
@mac: These are the same products, with the only difference in order number.
#3007
#3008
The SMC 5000 LiPo pack is tall enough that it pretty much touches the topdeck. Even though it's supposed to have .5mm clearance, I find the packs are a little taller than advertised. Wouldn't this inhibit equal flex and affect the handling of the car? It does often feel tweaked after a minor incident on the track, but doesn't show tweak on the board.
#3009
Tech Apprentice
hi guys, ive been running my 416 for a few weeks now, can someone please help...when i follow the setup sheet of the likes of the tfr boys ect, when they have a droop setting of 6mm front 5mm rear where are they measuring from...i have my chassis on the board with no wheels on and set the end of the wishbone under the upright hinge pin to 5mm front 6mm rear...is this correct or am i missing something.....i just also wondered why sometimes they set the droop using o rings in the shock body rather than on the droop screws, many thanks in advance.....
#3010
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Adam the pack hitting the deck is bad, check out the bitty designs lipo trays, they move the battery out a bit http://www.feralbatteries.com.au/category.aspx?id=%2053
I find my car tweaks very easily too, 1 hack and I'm taily on one side and understeery on the other until I loosen the top deck off and detweak it
Mark you are correct about the droop measurement being from the chassis to the arms, this is usually done with droop blocks and a droop gauge, but you can do it with calipers from the setup board too. #6 means the outside of the arms rest 6mm above the chassis line. Don't forget to measure it with the sway bar and shocks disconnected. The orings on the shock shaft arent for droop however - I think you might be thinking of Mini where they are placed inside the shock body to limit shock travel. The orings are placed on the shaft to accurately set rebound when building the shocks; you put them on the shaft, screw the ball end on, fill the shock with oil, placed the diaphram on, compress the shaft up to the orings, clean up the excess oil and screw the shock cap on while holding the piston in against the oring. With 1 oring you'll have 2mm of rebound, with 2 you'll have 4mm
I find my car tweaks very easily too, 1 hack and I'm taily on one side and understeery on the other until I loosen the top deck off and detweak it
Mark you are correct about the droop measurement being from the chassis to the arms, this is usually done with droop blocks and a droop gauge, but you can do it with calipers from the setup board too. #6 means the outside of the arms rest 6mm above the chassis line. Don't forget to measure it with the sway bar and shocks disconnected. The orings on the shock shaft arent for droop however - I think you might be thinking of Mini where they are placed inside the shock body to limit shock travel. The orings are placed on the shaft to accurately set rebound when building the shocks; you put them on the shaft, screw the ball end on, fill the shock with oil, placed the diaphram on, compress the shaft up to the orings, clean up the excess oil and screw the shock cap on while holding the piston in against the oring. With 1 oring you'll have 2mm of rebound, with 2 you'll have 4mm
#3011
Tech Apprentice
Hello guys the Photos from ETS (EURO TOURING SERIES in Kastellaun, Germany )
Marc used the new chassis proto 416
Viktor Wilk
Photos http://gallerie.automodelisme.com/th...bum=227&page=1
Marc used the new chassis proto 416
Viktor Wilk
Photos http://gallerie.automodelisme.com/th...bum=227&page=1
#3012
check out the bitty designs lipo trays, they move the battery out a bit http://www.feralbatteries.com.au/category.aspx?id=%2053
#3013
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
I've got the 4000s so just use a PPD EZ lipo tray. I have seen it installed though and they look very clean. You can sit a lipo lead in the bottom of them to bring your car up to weight and they still hold the battery nicely in place
Was the latest ETS round on carpet? I noticed Marc is back to using the 2pc deck
Was the latest ETS round on carpet? I noticed Marc is back to using the 2pc deck