Tamiya F103 Forum
#1891
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
The only reason I planned on upgrading is the tires are severely dry rotten. So the side walls are cracked beyond belief. But the manager at the hobby shop I run at said they now make a rubberised CA that I could use to salvage them. He also said they looked like proline brand tires. He is pretty knowledgeable in cars especially Tamiya as he had races mostly Tamiya for 20 or so years.
The tires did perform rather well but the bumpy track we run on was the cause of my first crash and break today. The car got airborne from a dip in the track that I entered at a bad angle. The resulting glancing blow to the pipes ripped off the driverside front wheel taking the upper and lower A arm ends with it. Upon closer inspection they appeared to be the stock plastic ones. So while I was still at the track ordered the carbon reinforced ones as replacements.
My friends with F1's were upset I crashed and broke mine during practice but were happy to see another car for the class. Also going to go ahead and order the standard 103 base plate as tq has them for just $20. I am really glad parts for this car are still out there or I would be in deep poo, lol.
Jason
The tires did perform rather well but the bumpy track we run on was the cause of my first crash and break today. The car got airborne from a dip in the track that I entered at a bad angle. The resulting glancing blow to the pipes ripped off the driverside front wheel taking the upper and lower A arm ends with it. Upon closer inspection they appeared to be the stock plastic ones. So while I was still at the track ordered the carbon reinforced ones as replacements.
My friends with F1's were upset I crashed and broke mine during practice but were happy to see another car for the class. Also going to go ahead and order the standard 103 base plate as tq has them for just $20. I am really glad parts for this car are still out there or I would be in deep poo, lol.
Jason
#1892
Tech Master
Yeah, they are Proline Road Hawgs. We all bought a set when they came out and found they either worked well or didn't work at all, depending on the surface you were racing on.
A good move. The kit plastic arms work well but does seem to go brittle with age. Had big accidents in the old days that they survived but when I brought the cars out again they snapped so much easily. The carbon reinforced arms are stiffer, but also a lot more durable.
Tamiya are great in that they like to recycle parts where they can. Cuts down on their costs but also means a lot of F103 parts are used in the new F104W cars. The chassis plate, top deck and battery holders are the only parts unique to the F103, but as Tamiya have used the F103 for the Tyrrell P34 and Lotus 99T, and rereleased the F103RM kits, it is still technically a current kit 20 years since they first released it.
The resulting glancing blow to the pipes ripped off the driverside front wheel taking the upper and lower A arm ends with it. Upon closer inspection they appeared to be the stock plastic ones. So while I was still at the track ordered the carbon reinforced ones as replacements.
I am really glad parts for this car are still out there or I would be in deep poo, lol.
#1893
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
My parts shipped today. The guys at tq are just awesome. They combined my different orders without a single problem and gave refund for the extra shipping in record time. Hats off to them. So the car should be running again by Thursday night.
I got bored today and dug out a set of my old rc plane lights and fitted a nice blinking taillight. Looks great and was done with what was on hand.
Jason
I got bored today and dug out a set of my old rc plane lights and fitted a nice blinking taillight. Looks great and was done with what was on hand.
Jason
#1894
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
My parts shipped today. The guys at tq are just awesome. They combined my different orders without a single problem and gave refund for the extra shipping in record time. Hats off to them. So the car should be running again by Thursday night.
I got bored today and dug out a set of my old rc plane lights and fitted a nice blinking taillight. Looks great and was done with what was on hand.
Jason
I got bored today and dug out a set of my old rc plane lights and fitted a nice blinking taillight. Looks great and was done with what was on hand.
Jason
#1895
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Ok just noticed my last post went up twice, odd.
Anyhow I now have the car back together with its new arms. Oh and a brand spanking new set of Pardus brand tires. They seem to be a good choice but time will tell. But unfortunately I have made a new issue as now I needed to do the F104 conversion to equalize the front and rear wheel widths. I may do the conversion to a standard wheelbase at the same time. But the car currently is ready to run.
Jason
Anyhow I now have the car back together with its new arms. Oh and a brand spanking new set of Pardus brand tires. They seem to be a good choice but time will tell. But unfortunately I have made a new issue as now I needed to do the F104 conversion to equalize the front and rear wheel widths. I may do the conversion to a standard wheelbase at the same time. But the car currently is ready to run.
Jason
#1896
How much would a f103 15th anivseary edition be worth?
It's used, the chasisis has a few scratches/etc but it's complete+ extra parts...
It's used, the chasisis has a few scratches/etc but it's complete+ extra parts...
#1898
Los Angeles/SFV F-1 Test & Race Day
Winter Outdoor F-1 Track Test & Race
March 3, 2013
Classes: UF1 and Le Mans
We are all invited to test and race at Marvin's URC V Raceway (in the SFV!)
Great opportunity to start testing set-ups in a low grip, long - fast layout track
This first race is for Free!
For all of us so we get to know the venue.
Formula 1 and Le Mans
Sunday March 3
URC V Raceway
Metro Link Parking Lot
8775 Wilbur Ave. SF Valley CA 91324
Track set up 9:00 – 11:00
Practice 11:00
Racing 12:00 – 5:00 or Sunset
You will need your own power supply
To register please send me a PM with your name and transponder numbers.
So they can be race ready and not spend time loading our data on race day.
Cordially,
Marcos Wanless
March 3, 2013
Classes: UF1 and Le Mans
We are all invited to test and race at Marvin's URC V Raceway (in the SFV!)
Great opportunity to start testing set-ups in a low grip, long - fast layout track
This first race is for Free!
For all of us so we get to know the venue.
Formula 1 and Le Mans
Sunday March 3
URC V Raceway
Metro Link Parking Lot
8775 Wilbur Ave. SF Valley CA 91324
Track set up 9:00 – 11:00
Practice 11:00
Racing 12:00 – 5:00 or Sunset
You will need your own power supply
To register please send me a PM with your name and transponder numbers.
So they can be race ready and not spend time loading our data on race day.
Cordially,
Marcos Wanless
#1899
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Well I am beginning the conversion of the my F103L to a F103 standard length / F104. Am finding out there are a few pieces that I hadn't accounted for and still need to order so I can finish the transformation. Still have yet to pick up the F104 front wing, servo mount, king pins and other various screws.
Jason
Jason
#1902
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Ok so I ran the f103 in its first race since its rebuild. I have TONS of steering but cannot keep the rear end from coming around when I try to keep up with the pack. What you seein my pic 2 posts ago is how my car is setup. I need to get a oil damper to replace the friction one.
1. I have what looks like Gold springs in the front.
2. Ride height is 6mm all the way around.
3. Tires are these: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod..._id=&cart_seq=
4. No clue on rear T bar but am running it fairly loose hoping it would help it hold the track.
5. Motor for our class is 540J.
Any starting points or suggestion?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
1. I have what looks like Gold springs in the front.
2. Ride height is 6mm all the way around.
3. Tires are these: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod..._id=&cart_seq=
4. No clue on rear T bar but am running it fairly loose hoping it would help it hold the track.
5. Motor for our class is 540J.
Any starting points or suggestion?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
#1903
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Ok so I ran the f103 in its first race since its rebuild. I have TONS of steering but cannot keep the rear end from coming around when I try to keep up with the pack. What you seein my pic 2 posts ago is how my car is setup. I need to get a oil damper to replace the friction one.
1. I have what looks like Gold springs in the front.
2. Ride height is 6mm all the way around.
3. Tires are these: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod..._id=&cart_seq=
4. No clue on rear T bar but am running it fairly loose hoping it would help it hold the track.
5. Motor for our class is 540J.
Any starting points or suggestion?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
1. I have what looks like Gold springs in the front.
2. Ride height is 6mm all the way around.
3. Tires are these: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod..._id=&cart_seq=
4. No clue on rear T bar but am running it fairly loose hoping it would help it hold the track.
5. Motor for our class is 540J.
Any starting points or suggestion?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
#1904
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
It breaks loose pretty much whenever I apply power other than straight. I can manage entry pretty well unless I enter too late then I might come around, but that is all driver not car. I guess its mostly mid and exit. I do understand that finesse is needed with these cars and I do have some learning to do when it comes to this car. I run for practice whenever I get a chance at the track I race at. I wound say the track currently is a medium grip surface. They have been working on the track every week and should be completely resurfaced this next week bringing it up closer to high grip surface. The guys in the class had awesome traction and were putting times in that rivaled our GT3 and even some of our GT2 TC classes. My laps were about I would say 3-4 seconds slower than thiers and finished on average 5-7 laps down.
Just a bit of info on my background. I race the mini, TC's listed in my signature locally and have been doing so since August of last year. Just recently started racing offroad and only do it when nothing onroad is going on. I usually place on the podium when racing onroad so although I wouldn't call me a pro or even intermediate I am proficient. Previous to my getting into onroad and now offroad have flow RC planes since I was 14 (am 36 now).
Also forgot to add to the original setup post that the Spur is a 104T and the pinion is a 25T. I do also have a 88T spur for it.
Jason
Just a bit of info on my background. I race the mini, TC's listed in my signature locally and have been doing so since August of last year. Just recently started racing offroad and only do it when nothing onroad is going on. I usually place on the podium when racing onroad so although I wouldn't call me a pro or even intermediate I am proficient. Previous to my getting into onroad and now offroad have flow RC planes since I was 14 (am 36 now).
Also forgot to add to the original setup post that the Spur is a 104T and the pinion is a 25T. I do also have a 88T spur for it.
Jason
#1905
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
It breaks loose pretty much whenever I apply power other than straight. I can manage entry pretty well unless I enter too late then I might come around, but that is all driver not car. I guess its mostly mid and exit. I do understand that finesse is needed with these cars and I do have some learning to do when it comes to this car. I run for practice whenever I get a chance at the track I race at. I wound say the track currently is a medium grip surface. They have been working on the track every week and should be completely resurfaced this next week bringing it up closer to high grip surface. The guys in the class had awesome traction and were putting times in that rivaled our GT3 and even some of our GT2 TC classes. My laps were about I would say 3-4 seconds slower than thiers and finished on average 5-7 laps down.
Just a bit of info on my background. I race the mini, TC's listed in my signature locally and have been doing so since August of last year. Just recently started racing offroad and only do it when nothing onroad is going on. I usually place on the podium when racing onroad so although I wouldn't call me a pro or even intermediate I am proficient. Previous to my getting into onroad and now offroad have flow RC planes since I was 14 (am 36 now).
Also forgot to add to the original setup post that the Spur is a 104T and the pinion is a 25T. I do also have a 88T spur for it.
Jason
Just a bit of info on my background. I race the mini, TC's listed in my signature locally and have been doing so since August of last year. Just recently started racing offroad and only do it when nothing onroad is going on. I usually place on the podium when racing onroad so although I wouldn't call me a pro or even intermediate I am proficient. Previous to my getting into onroad and now offroad have flow RC planes since I was 14 (am 36 now).
Also forgot to add to the original setup post that the Spur is a 104T and the pinion is a 25T. I do also have a 88T spur for it.
Jason
A proper shock will help a lot too. The original damper really isn't up to much and can't even call it a proper friction damper. Though if you played with different greases on the plates you might be able to calm the rear of the car down some.
Are the other drivers using the Pardus tyres? - they are not considered a particularly grippy tyre. Most people I know are using either the Ride R1 or Shimizu tyres
Finally, for 540 I would say you are massively under geared. That will also make the car harder to drive coming out of the corner because of all the punch it will give. I'd definitely move to the 88tooth spur
Nothing ground breaking here but like I said I am only quoting from my own experience