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Old 10-18-2009, 09:48 PM
  #7981  
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Apparently not all of them...I bought a set of blue and a set of the newer gold thinking if I was wrong on the golds the blues should be ok...nope...these are 100 degree as well.
i rummaged thru my box of 8/32 screws, which i think were all from AE packaging. the blue ones and the greenish yellow (old gold?) were 100 degree. the only 82 degree screws were some silver ones. the IRS screws are a darker grey and also look to be 82 degrees.
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:27 PM
  #7982  
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
OK so which 8-32nd screws are 80 degree heads? I need some shorter ones then the IRS and don't feel like cutting them down. I ordered a couple AE ones knowing some are 100 and some are 80 and ended up with both as 100.
Lunsford sells titanium scews for the front end in 3 different lengths for around $7 for 4 screws and Fastener Express sells the screws in bulk amounts in both 100 and 82 degree in about 4 different lengths and different colors too. I have been using the Lunsford ones for a while now, they are a hex socket instead of a philips... no stripping!
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:51 PM
  #7983  
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Where is everyone sourcing parts? It seems neither Ampdraw or Stormer are supporting this brand any longer???
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Old 10-19-2009, 03:50 AM
  #7984  
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Stormer has an order on the way to them. I dont sell to ampdraw any more.
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:46 PM
  #7985  
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Originally Posted by biz77
Where is everyone sourcing parts? It seems neither Ampdraw or Stormer are supporting this brand any longer???
you can always go through the bmi site directly, no problems there!
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:13 AM
  #7986  
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Jason, Can you get the IRS ones in different lengths? That would be cool if possible.
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Old 10-20-2009, 05:20 AM
  #7987  
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Originally Posted by protc3
Going to a thicker side dampening will reduce double steer to the point it is not noticable. I am working on some new flex plates that should be available within the next 2 weeks that really help with this also.
Hi Jason,
You don't have DB3015R Flex Plate Thin G10?
(I can't find one on your web site)
DB3015R change to new flex plate?
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Old 10-20-2009, 11:44 AM
  #7988  
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The website is www.bmiracing.com

The flex plates are:
DB3010R - Standard flex plate for DB12RR
DB3015R - Thin flex plate for DB12RR

No part number yet for the new flex plate that Jason mentioned...at least that I can see on the website.
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:58 PM
  #7989  
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So I am going through the car tonight to do some low level ballancing of it. I have 4 pocket scales and a level surface. I setup the car as I would on race day, making sure ride height is correct, etc... Also using newly trued tires front and back so they are equal side to side.


From initial testing the car looks like: - without body
As if you are looking at it from the front)
LF: 150 RF: 143
LR: 182 RR: 210
L: 332 R: 353
(in gm)

(edit - ignore these weights, I found the 5$ scales are a bit touchy and need to have the weight directly over the pressure measurement post... so I am re-doing some tests and looks like I am within a few gm side to side)

I am also noticing the car doesnt recenter properly, if I push down on a corner, it holds that stance and leaves more weight on the corner that was pushed down, Front and rear. This is with the damper tubes disconnected.

The rear weight difference confuses me. The right side of the car is the one with the power wires for the batt, the ESC, switches, etc... as you can see the right front is light and the right rear is heavy. Not sure where to put weight to solve this.

What should the weight distribution be on a 1/12th, side to side, cross, F/R. Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by Clegg; 10-20-2009 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 10-20-2009, 03:19 PM
  #7990  
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I may have asked this before, but I am still unsure. I am running the DB12RR in modified class. We can use Lipo or NiMh cells. My question is can Lipo keep up with the 4 cell set-up? Would I need a lower turn motor to keep up? and should I use a step-up module or receiver pack?

Thanks
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Old 10-20-2009, 06:01 PM
  #7991  
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Hey PHI/BMI Racer,

For Mod I would use a receiver pack

Hope this helps
Mike
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:26 PM
  #7992  
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Originally Posted by Clegg
I am also noticing the car doesnt recenter properly, if I push down on a corner, it holds that stance and leaves more weight on the corner that was pushed down, Front and rear. This is with the damper tubes disconnected.

Check for any binding in all of the suspension, front and rear. Any binding may be the culprit in not allowing the chassis to return to center.
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:43 PM
  #7993  
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Jason,
Could you make the battery holder for 1S Lipo?
I used Thunder power battery. This helps the battery stay in place.
I did this to mine 10RR and 12RR/Lipo chassis.
Attached Thumbnails BMI's DB12R-dsc00560.jpg   BMI's DB12R-dsc00569.jpg   BMI's DB12R-dsc00568.jpg  

Last edited by MaxSp97; 10-21-2009 at 06:00 PM. Reason: pictures added
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Old 10-20-2009, 09:13 PM
  #7994  
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Originally Posted by MaxSp97
Jason,
Could you make the battery holder for 1S Lipo?
I used Thunder power battery. This is help the battery in place.
I did this to mine 10RR and 12RR/Lipo chassis.
Sorry for the picture is not clear.
You did that on a 10R chassis? could you post a pic? ( I know wrong forum... but this is one of the only things keeping me from buying a 10R. I hate the idea of the weighted battery tray.
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Old 10-20-2009, 10:24 PM
  #7995  
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Originally Posted by Clegg
You did that on a 10R chassis? could you post a pic? ( I know wrong forum... but this is one of the only things keeping me from buying a 10R. I hate the idea of the weighted battery tray.
I will post the picture 2morrow.
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