Will there ever be a 1/8th scale Electric onroad car
#632
I working on one right now hopefully it will be done by next Friday for the Montonica GT race in L.A..
#633
#634
I have a old Mugen MRX2 THAT I AM CONVERTING.
#635
Tech Master
I'm picking up my Serpent 960 tomorrow. Yay, my first 1/8. Been pouring over this thread and many others, and am trying to sort out what motor and battery sizes to use.
I want it to be a pure track car. We have a 1/8 size track that I race 1/10 on. There are no other 1/8e cars, but plenty of Nitro's.
With electric brakes, single speed, no clutch, what would be preferred out of 6S 1700kV or 5S 2050kV? I'm hoping I can raise the top deck to fit a 5S in, otherwise it's twin 3S outriggers, which I don't like the idea of much.
Ideas?
I want it to be a pure track car. We have a 1/8 size track that I race 1/10 on. There are no other 1/8e cars, but plenty of Nitro's.
With electric brakes, single speed, no clutch, what would be preferred out of 6S 1700kV or 5S 2050kV? I'm hoping I can raise the top deck to fit a 5S in, otherwise it's twin 3S outriggers, which I don't like the idea of much.
Ideas?
#636
Here's the latest installment of my 1/8 scale, on road, brushless conversion, this time being driven by Kevin Jelich. Notice the smoothness of power from turn to turn, not to mention how quickly it accelerates from each turn to the next.
In the video, I was running a smaller pinion, but I later ran it with a pinion 1 tooth larger and the difference on the straight was quite noticeable.
Run time with this setup is between 9-11 minutes depending on how hard you drive. Motor temps came in no higher than 150 degrees after 11 minutes of running. Data logging showed that amp spikes were no higher than 142 amps. The average amp draw was about 30 amps.
I believe the car can now compete in a 30 minute main without issues. I have a method of doing a battery change that doesn't involve removing the body, so pitstops, while they will take about 10 seconds, are possible. Remember, though, that in a 30 minute main, only 3 pitstops are necessary.
In the video, I was running a smaller pinion, but I later ran it with a pinion 1 tooth larger and the difference on the straight was quite noticeable.
Run time with this setup is between 9-11 minutes depending on how hard you drive. Motor temps came in no higher than 150 degrees after 11 minutes of running. Data logging showed that amp spikes were no higher than 142 amps. The average amp draw was about 30 amps.
I believe the car can now compete in a 30 minute main without issues. I have a method of doing a battery change that doesn't involve removing the body, so pitstops, while they will take about 10 seconds, are possible. Remember, though, that in a 30 minute main, only 3 pitstops are necessary.
+ YouTube Video | |
#637
WOW that car looks like it handle and accelerate really good. Do you have a picture of the car layout and what brand of car is it?
#638
See this post in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7240478-post521.html
#640
Tech Master
I'm picking up my Serpent 960 tomorrow. Yay, my first 1/8. Been pouring over this thread and many others, and am trying to sort out what motor and battery sizes to use.
I want it to be a pure track car. We have a 1/8 size track that I race 1/10 on. There are no other 1/8e cars, but plenty of Nitro's.
With electric brakes, single speed, no clutch, what would be preferred out of 6S 1700kV or 5S 2050kV? I'm hoping I can raise the top deck to fit a 5S in, otherwise it's twin 3S outriggers, which I don't like the idea of much.
Ideas?
I want it to be a pure track car. We have a 1/8 size track that I race 1/10 on. There are no other 1/8e cars, but plenty of Nitro's.
With electric brakes, single speed, no clutch, what would be preferred out of 6S 1700kV or 5S 2050kV? I'm hoping I can raise the top deck to fit a 5S in, otherwise it's twin 3S outriggers, which I don't like the idea of much.
Ideas?
#641
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
So I picked up the gear today. It's got the 966e conversion set which takes 4 x 1S batteries. Using it with that configuration and, say, a 2200kV motor, would the heat get out of hand? I don't want balls-out speed, just a good fairly quick and driveable car. Don't care if I get pasted on the straight, races are won in the corners
I typically run a 2650kv on 4 cells but the 2200kv motor will likely give you more room to tune, not to mention you can run 5 cells when the batteries get better and smaller.
#642
The car is a Kyosho Evolva M3. The conversion is something simple that I've been working on for about 2 years. It doesn't take much to bolt on.
See this post in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7240478-post521.html
See this post in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7240478-post521.html
Will
#643
#644
There is really is no other way to run 6S (with the current shape of batteries.) That's what Motonica did, I don't like the way it looks, but it probably works ok unless you have access to a machine shop. I saw some drawings that changed the layout of an 1/8 4wd car that allowed for a retangular battery to sit in the middle of the chassis. Very cool.
#645
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Hi guys, I'm back...
I just thought I'd post some of the latest pictures of the E'volva.
I've made some changes to accommodate the larger, Neu motors.
I will be testing for runtime and working on the setup this weekend so I will post my findings next week.
Sorry if the pictures are a bit small.
I just thought I'd post some of the latest pictures of the E'volva.
I've made some changes to accommodate the larger, Neu motors.
I will be testing for runtime and working on the setup this weekend so I will post my findings next week.
Sorry if the pictures are a bit small.
Last edited by YoDog; 05-05-2011 at 05:56 PM.