YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

A good matched set of pro level nimh batteries will give you better performance than a Lipo, however it will only give you that performance under a very very small set of conditions. You have to cycle your packs maintain them and carry around all the equipment to keep them at their best, and even then they only stay at their peak for a couple of runs (i'm talking about pro level batts not sport level) vs lipos you charge them and maybe heat them if you can get away with it (it's illegal at roar races) and you are good to go. You don't have to do anything special to them just chuck them in your box when you are done with them and charge them and run them next weekend.

As far as price goes, I have sport packs available for roughly 85$ it's a 5400mah you really only need 1, vs 2x packs of nimh because of how long they take to charge. I charge my lipos at 10 to 15 amps and am done charging in about 15 minutes after a race. If you want 2x lipos then the cost does go up but you can get multiple seasons of great performance out of them.

I match and sell nimh batteries (2/3a batts for micros), and my nimh batts can outperform Lipos, we did it at the on road micro nats and the off road micro nats. People thought we were running Lipo's because we were so fast and we have a couple national championships and a bunch of big wins to prove it, but I gotta tell you Lipo REALLY makes my life easy . My pit box is smaller and I am consistent no matter what!

Just my 2cents .

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I was thinking that, it's also easier to track stock that way. Once I can afford it i'm moving off oscommerce. It takes too much dam work to get things right .

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Look for a lipo with dimensions of 138mm x 46mm x 23mm or smaller and you will not have to modify anything (maybe the top deck a little so the bullet connectors don't rub). I run the bullet plug Team Checkpoint 4900 25C and it drops right in. Their newer 35C battery is the same size and tower has it listed for $99.99. I don't need a high C rating battery for 17.5 rubber sedan, so what I have is enough for me. then again the second Type R is on the way... You may want to look into the Flying Fox layshaft to get rid of the potential rubbing issues with the layshaft pulley.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Get the Fantom 5400 25c or Thunder Power better than both of those Checkpoints (My son runs the 4900), they fit in the Type-R and they are cheaper than the Checkpoints.

Unless you are running 17.5 or 13.5 3800mah is a little low on mah in my opinion. There are quite a few low cost alternatives, from Promatch, SMC and a bunch of other manufacturers that are higher than 3800. Bare minimum for me nowadays is 4200 , but 5000 is preferrable, 5400 is ROAR max I think.

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Any word on what the "new" Type R car looks like?

I have looked everywhere and all the talk is that no more new onroad cars will be made. I even hear fear of not even making the Type R any more.

MonkeyFist

iTrader: (7)

WheelNut how do you like the car? I trust it got there in good shape. I have an Orion 3400 mAh Lipo pack that fits perfectly, not rubbing or any fitment issues. It's plenty for 17.5 or 13.5 racing.

MonkeyFist

iTrader: (7)

They are still making the Type R. It's not in Losi's interest to stop making a TC before they have another to replace it. With ROAR approving Lipo batteries, the design of the Type R is far ahead of the rest of the pack. The one exception to that rule is the Team Magic E4. I see all these guys with "traditional" layout TC having to add large amounts of weight just to balance the car left to right. The TOP Photon even has a special little tray on the out side edge for adding weights for balance. The Losi design eliminates that totally. You may still have to add some weight to make the minimum, but not near as much as some guys have to add, just to achieve balance. I think you'll see alot more cars looking lie the Losi in the future.

To sum up the Type R is not going anywhere. Most of the small issues with the cars are being fixed by after market parts.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I knew I was forgetting something, the fantoms! I need to order batteries...

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

Does everyone know that the rear wheelbase is maxed out at 190mm, when using the standard hex and long (kit) A-arms..

I once tried the wider hexes in the read and found the car to traction roll more often.. Then I moved back to the standard hex and changed the arm camber lenth.. Traction roll symptom disappeared.

One question is whether some of you have tried the short or long setting where you put the hinge pin thru on the end of the rear a-arm. What effect would this bring if you used the short setting and a wider hex?

John, this is not programmed in the roll centre calculator. Have you tried this?

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

Not to sure how I like it so far. The car seems good, but I've yet to spin the wheels. I've got to do all the wiring on it tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be able to run it this saturday. I've got no idea how well the setup that is on it will work, so it might be terrible, but all I can do is try and see.

I picked up an SMC 4500mah S-max pack today, which fits decently (the wire exit point is a bit tight, but not to bad at all) and the price is quite good. The important thing is that it fits into my Xray 007 as well as the Losi.

Maxrain- I'll probably see you at some WCICS races this year. Do many other guys in Canada run the JRX-S R?

dasdaman

iTrader: (3)

I do. I have always raced with Losi cars even though it is a minority ride. . .

See you at the WCICS.

Dwayne

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

I think you mean "Track" or "width" not an wheel base, the wheel base is distance between front axle to rear axle.

I think Rear track is maxed with medium aluminum hexes.

also hole on arm is reffed as inside and outside holes and a inside hole is designed for use a offset rear hub such as LOSA9868

I tried them at carpet track with series of tight 90deg turns and car was squaring up so much on the corner I can't take any line on-power.

these offset was made for XXX-S which have longer arms than the type-R, I always run offset hubs on my XXX-S, I don't think I will ever use offset on the type-R again.

hope this help

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

yes, track width is what I was trying to refer to.. After posting, I did a little research and discovered what the short and long settings were. I read the manual and found at the back that the rear is maxed at 190. I am going to check this out by using my setup station..

will let you know.

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

I may decide to go to the Edmonton Race this year, this is dependant on my spouse as we have a 4 month old baby...

There is one other person in Calgary that runs the Type-R, but I only see him once.. The rest of the guys at the club run mostly xray, followed by ae tc5, a couple of cyclones, one tamiya and then me.

I hope to make a bigger impression this year and be more competitive.

Last year, I only ran the Calgary WCICS though and made the b-main. The run that I had in the b was better than all 3 qualifiers for it, with that run I was closer to making the A, maybe next year.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Listen you have us to count on!!

If you have questions etc during practice just store the website in your phone i know i check like every 30 minutes out of habit hahaha even on race day!

Once you get out to the track you can get a feel for what your car is doing and let us know and we can help if you need it.