52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
06-22-2008, 03:53 PM
#7427
Also, the next run of Lipo trays should be done in about a week or 2. They were just going out for the black coating then have to come back for the Type R engraving.
Last edited by schreff; 06-22-2008 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Oops
06-22-2008, 03:54 PM
#7428
06-22-2008, 03:57 PM
#7429
Hi all
Where is the best place to put the extra weight needed when running a Trakpower lipo. I need to add 150g
Thanks
Tim
Where is the best place to put the extra weight needed when running a Trakpower lipo. I need to add 150g
Thanks
Tim
06-22-2008, 04:05 PM
#7431
I ran the Checkpoint 5400 with only one small modification. I had to dremel the top deck a little to make the bullet connectors to fit. Other then that the cells fit perfectly even with the shrink. I ran the weighted tray and Mr. VIP ran the stock plastic. Both cars had rip, Ron might have had more then me but his car became a skateboard so that slowed him down.
06-22-2008, 04:27 PM
#7433
Al,
I ran the Checkpoint 5400 with only one small modification. I had to dremel the top deck a little to make the bullet connectors to fit. Other then that the cells fit perfectly even with the shrink. I ran the weighted tray and Mr. VIP ran the stock plastic. Both cars had rip, Ron might have had more then me but his car became a skateboard so that slowed him down.
I ran the Checkpoint 5400 with only one small modification. I had to dremel the top deck a little to make the bullet connectors to fit. Other then that the cells fit perfectly even with the shrink. I ran the weighted tray and Mr. VIP ran the stock plastic. Both cars had rip, Ron might have had more then me but his car became a skateboard so that slowed him down.
the Type Roller skate 
06-22-2008, 06:05 PM
#7434
Tech Initiate
Hey guys, my dad and I have started racing a few months ago, and we're ready to step up to a competative car. Does anyone here have any pro's and con's to till me about the car listed in this thread? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
06-22-2008, 06:16 PM
#7436
Another testament to the durability of the car, if i can strap it to my foot and do two laps and it still be in only a "few" peices then i'd say it's a winner!!
I saw a similar a-town stomp happen at the track down in MD, I wasn't quite sure what the car started out as but it ended up in about 14 pieces, the driver needed a dustpan to get it off the track.
i'm sorry about that, it was all nathan's fault ... or wait no scooby's fault ... hmm maybe darren's fault!! No it was dave's fault if he hadn't crashed i wouldn't have had to marshal, and i won't have mushed your car, i'll have to have a talk w/ him next weekend 
.
I saw a similar a-town stomp happen at the track down in MD, I wasn't quite sure what the car started out as but it ended up in about 14 pieces, the driver needed a dustpan to get it off the track.
i'm sorry about that, it was all nathan's fault ... or wait no scooby's fault ... hmm maybe darren's fault!! No it was dave's fault if he hadn't crashed i wouldn't have had to marshal, and i won't have mushed your car, i'll have to have a talk w/ him next weekend .
06-22-2008, 06:24 PM
#7437
Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.
Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.
I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.
The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).
06-22-2008, 08:06 PM
#7438
I'm hunting the same thing and so far this is what i've found:
Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.
Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.
I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.
The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).
Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.
Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.
I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.
The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).
06-22-2008, 08:11 PM
#7439
, my other car has 5mm and it bottoms quite a bit.
06-22-2008, 08:41 PM
#7440
I would say the rear since you have them out of sync. You need to even the collars up and then set ride height trying to make sure you move both evenly so the whole car goes up the same. They may not end up being exactly the same due to maybe one spring being weaker then the other but should be pretty close. If the collars in the front are equal then those are fine.