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Team Losi JRXS Type-R

Old 06-22-2008, 03:50 PM
  #7426  
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
This question probably has been answered,just to lazy to check all the posts


What do you guys like for a lipo in the losi.I mean fit wise and access for the wiring.Thanks
core 5000 fits with no problems
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:53 PM
  #7427  
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
This question probably has been answered,just to lazy to check all the posts


What do you guys like for a lipo in the losi.I mean fit wise and access for the wiring.Thanks
Al, I'll answer this one for ya as I got to see Ronnie G and Mike Major run Lipo this past weekend. The TrackPower 4900mah 25C pack is awesome. It fits the car like a champ with no modifications to the car or pack casing. The CheckPoint 5400mah fits good too.

Also, the next run of Lipo trays should be done in about a week or 2. They were just going out for the black coating then have to come back for the Type R engraving.

Last edited by schreff; 06-22-2008 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Oops
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by EViLSouL View Post
There was some top secret testing going on at the Mushroombowl Speedway last night. Heres a sneak peak of what fuels Schreff.
I'm still waiting for my free gas!!! Worked great as a chassis protector.
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:57 PM
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Hi all

Where is the best place to put the extra weight needed when running a Trakpower lipo. I need to add 150g

Thanks
Tim
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
This question probably has been answered,just to lazy to check all the posts


What do you guys like for a lipo in the losi.I mean fit wise and access for the wiring.Thanks

Hey Al

Track power 4900's or the check point 4900's fit np and have awesome rip!!!
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:05 PM
  #7431  
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Originally Posted by Al Sodano View Post
This question probably has been answered,just to lazy to check all the posts


What do you guys like for a lipo in the losi.I mean fit wise and access for the wiring.Thanks
Al,

I ran the Checkpoint 5400 with only one small modification. I had to dremel the top deck a little to make the bullet connectors to fit. Other then that the cells fit perfectly even with the shrink. I ran the weighted tray and Mr. VIP ran the stock plastic. Both cars had rip, Ron might have had more then me but his car became a skateboard so that slowed him down.
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:19 PM
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does any know what spur/pinion to start with the losi 17.5 brushless system?
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:27 PM
  #7433  
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Originally Posted by EViLSouL View Post
Al,

I ran the Checkpoint 5400 with only one small modification. I had to dremel the top deck a little to make the bullet connectors to fit. Other then that the cells fit perfectly even with the shrink. I ran the weighted tray and Mr. VIP ran the stock plastic. Both cars had rip, Ron might have had more then me but his car became a skateboard so that slowed him down.
No its a new car losi just released the Type Roller skate
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:05 PM
  #7434  
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Hey guys, my dad and I have started racing a few months ago, and we're ready to step up to a competative car. Does anyone here have any pro's and con's to till me about the car listed in this thread? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:13 PM
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anyone have any tips on how to get the rear end to hook up I'm running on asphalt with rubber
edit:: it's on a low bit track

Last edited by metalracer2; 06-22-2008 at 06:14 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Goetter View Post
No its a new car losi just released the Type Roller skate
Another testament to the durability of the car, if i can strap it to my foot and do two laps and it still be in only a "few" peices then i'd say it's a winner!!

I saw a similar a-town stomp happen at the track down in MD, I wasn't quite sure what the car started out as but it ended up in about 14 pieces, the driver needed a dustpan to get it off the track.

i'm sorry about that, it was all nathan's fault ... or wait no scooby's fault ... hmm maybe darren's fault!! No it was dave's fault if he hadn't crashed i wouldn't have had to marshal, and i won't have mushed your car, i'll have to have a talk w/ him next weekend .
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by metalracer2 View Post
anyone have any tips on how to get the rear end to hook up I'm running on asphalt with rubber
edit:: it's on a low bit track
I'm hunting the same thing and so far this is what i've found:

Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.

Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.

I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.

The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).
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Old 06-22-2008, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
I'm hunting the same thing and so far this is what i've found:

Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.

Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.

I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.

The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).
7mm rear ride height? This is quite high...for outdoor asphalt it should be around 5mm- 5.5mm in most cases. Bring the rear ride height down to 5mm and you'll see much better results.
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Old 06-22-2008, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim View Post
7mm rear ride height? This is quite high...for outdoor asphalt it should be around 5mm- 5.5mm in most cases. Bring the rear ride height down to 5mm and you'll see much better results.
The 'bowl has some pretty big bumps , my other car has 5mm and it bottoms quite a bit.
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Old 06-22-2008, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
All 4 shocks are at 63.5mm. If i have this issue in the rear does it mean the tweak is coming from the front? When you say move them at the same time does that mean one goes up and one down until you get them the same?
thanks for the help
I would say the rear since you have them out of sync. You need to even the collars up and then set ride height trying to make sure you move both evenly so the whole car goes up the same. They may not end up being exactly the same due to maybe one spring being weaker then the other but should be pretty close. If the collars in the front are equal then those are fine.
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