jasons56

I just got a used JRX-S type R to try something different. Up til now I have ran exclusively the xxx-s.

Got a FF layshaft in it yesterday. Nice piece. Waiting on the spool.

The person I bought the R from was a flex freak and had hacked up the bulkheads and upper deck a lot. I'll admit, the car drives nice but he was running medium sway bars which seems to contradict a lot of flex?

I usually ran no bars in the xxx-s and was pretty darn fast with it. Only complaints I had was the high polar moment and the CG seemed a little high. I would start traction rolling before anyone else.

The JRX-s R seems to really have solved these issues. Once I get used to it, I know its gonna be worth a few tenths.

However, now that I want to get rid of the flex I need another top deck. Part # LOSA4304 . Horizon is listing it as discontinued according to the LHS. Please tell me it isn't so! I ordered one from Ampdraw last week but it still shows as not shipped. I'm guessing they didn't really have one.

Did I buy a Type R just in time for parts to start drying up?

Anyone have a top deck in stock?

steve eaves

iTrader: (74)

Nope,go to www.losipartshouse.com have most everything you need and fast shipping.

jasons56

They don't have top decks.

Gwoodrc

iTrader: (66)

I wanted to experiment with cutting a topdeck and I have enough parts to build a second car minus a topdeck and screw kit, but i have yet to find anyone that has one. Other than the topdeck you shouldn't have problems getting parts, maybee someone will reproduce the topdeck.

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

Really interesting.. I didn't think they discontinued the car nor the parts. Maybe they need to do another production run? I don't know. Give Losi a call in the morning and see what they say, let us know!

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, what he said! When I asked Gil Losi Jr. that same question, he simply said "whichever end of the car is narrower will have more bite." While that's over simplified, it really does work 100% of the time. The wider the track width, the less weight transfer from the inside to the outside tires. The narrower the track width, the more weight transfer from the inside to the outside tires. If you're slightly confused about how to use our suggestions, join the club. Suspension tuning is a black art to some extent. Even the pros don't always know which change to make first, second or last. But the best racers at the big events are the ones who figured it out first, so get out there and change stuff! (high five!)

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Top decks are a little hard to find, the word I got was they were discontinued because they weren't really selling many. They are still producing all the other parts for the car.

Between Flying Fox and I we pledged to keep the car going and fill in the gaps whenever the bean counters step in and make our lives harder because the car is still competitive and consistenly at the top of the time sheets so no reason to mothball it yet.

If you hunt around on Ebay you can pick up a top deck, also in the for sale forum here they have a couple for sale. I'd pick up one or two just for the parts. The other option is to get one cut, there are a bunch of companies that would gladly cut one for you. I think i'll try to get a 3d scan of one and post the Solidworks, Autocad, and Pro-e drawing of it so we can get it cut on our own.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Interesting I just had a quick look around and couldn't find any upper decks either... Lucky I have a few spares...

I know Mr FlyingFoxRC was looking into perhaps making one. Maybe this would be a good idea to follow up on that. We could go the route of something like the FK-05 adjustable upper deck that would suit everyone right out of the box.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

BMI had produced a handful of chassis kits that included the top deck and shock towers, although I doubt Jason would bother producing them in larger batches. Still, it might be worth emailing him to show support for making the chassis kits.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

There is a far better solution if we are going chassis kits. It was looked at by a few of us a while back that we could move the motor and battery foward and move the position of the steering servo. The idea of this is to generate a 50/50 weight balance with a brushless/lipo setup BEFORE you add any weight to the chassis. This would involve the changing of many part including belts, rear bulkheads, etc... Mr FlyingFoxRC did some work in this area a while ago and I'm not sure how far it got, but if there is intrest it may be worth him finishing this. If anyone does go down the road of a chassis kit, then this should be their goal.

dfiantii

iTrader: (18)

There is a reason why they moved from the motor being forward and moved it to the back. Why would we go back to what did not work in the past?

Donny Lia

To answer that question, the move to Lipo.

I'm gonna be running this car as well guys. I ran one a couple years ago a handful of times and had great success with it. I am gonna try to get two cars going so I can do more testing with it. Do any of you have any tips or ideas or things you guys do to the cars different than the way it comes out of the box? Any help would be very appreciated and once I get the cars out there i'd gladly help in the setup department. Greg I know I mentioned this to you at Horsham and you were talking about something with the layshaft and the bearings? I don't remember exactly what it was though can you elaborate more?
Thanks all,
Donny

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I talked w/ Scooby about BMI a year ago. I think he'd do it if we bought enough, I'm looking into investment and financing to do a couple other things this summer and a chassis topdeck combo is one of them.

I really liked the BMI chassis the carbon was far stiffer than stock carbon and had a gloss look to it.

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

The BMI kit is 100 percent not necessary for anything Rubber.

It will probably hurt your performance in rubber actually.

Also the Bmi did not have a gloss finish it was a matte finish.

But what do I know I havent run this car in a year and so much has changed. lol

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Donny your layshafts are on the way.

My changes based on running w/ Schreff, Fairtrace, Sharpe, and a bunch of other fast Type-R guys, you prolly have most of these on your car already but i'll post up for the other newer Type-R guys.

1) move your ball stud on the steering link to the inner hole for more ackerman. Increases turn in.
2) place #4 washers underneath the ball stud in the steering knuckle this increases high speed steering (if i remember correctly may be wrong on the why, but it helps a ton!)
3) Change to camber links instead of jr links for rubber on asphalt. It increases camber gain.
4) Put a 3 or 4mm shim under the ball stud in the rear hub carrier for more camber gain. (i use the kyosho blue shims i have these for salebut they aren't on the site yet)
5) use a longer neck ball stud in the rear hub carrier for more camber gain, careful w/ the type of wheels you have, Sweeps and Prisms are a little larger than RP and some others you can fit bigger shims. Be mindful that your ball stud doesn't rub on your rim especially in 10.5 or better you WILL cut your rim.
5a) moving the ball stud to the outer hole gives you more rear traction, inner hole gives you more steering.
6) Check the tweak in your chassis after every 2 or three runs and Definitely before the mains (BMI chassis never tweaked btw). Loosen top deck screws and have someone help you push down on the shock towers on a flat surface and re tighten the screws.
7) maintain your diffs, this car is SUPER sensitive to diff action. You will lose all rear traction if that bearing in your diff is in bad shape or your thrust bearing is in bad shape. I use the mcmaster thrust and a ceramic center diff bearing. Paul Lemieux, Scooby, Fairtrace, Schreffler, Sharpe, DeWee all yelled at me about the crappiness of my diff and how badly it was affecting the handling of my car.

Changes:
Diff height makes a big difference, some like high some like low, but it makes a difference try it out.
Roll center makes a big difference, i run High front low rear because i like a car that pushes, but if you can handle a car that turns in hard go low and high.
Car changes directions quickly but it doesn't xfer weight to the wheels as quickly because of the center battery. Sweepers need to be driven hard and your car needs to be sprung softly on a sweeping track.
Shock mounting holes are the same as any other touring car move in for more traction out for less
Increase droop in 1/2 mm increments, you don't need much as i've found out the hard way.

It may sound like allot but honestly this is one of the easier cars i've owned to setup once you get used to it. For the most part the setup stays the same for various tracks and styles of racing, w/ minor changes to springs diff height and droop.