DIY RC stuff
08-05-2006, 12:44 AM
#77
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
About glueing the copper plate to the peltier device, what would happen if I did not used thermal bonding. Instead I use normal super glue and I only glue the plate at the corner end of the copper plate.
That would leave the center part of the copper and peltier device clear of glue and so on.
Would that work???
That would leave the center part of the copper and peltier device clear of glue and so on.
Would that work???
08-05-2006, 12:50 AM
#78
Originally Posted by XrayFK
You wouldn't want that, you WANT to use the thermal epoxy as it helps transfer heat by filling in the microscopic air gaps between the two plates.
08-05-2006, 01:12 AM
#79
yea will it make that much of a difference???
Wouldn't a contact between the peltier and the copper plate directly is better than a contact with adhesive in the middle layer???
Wouldn't a contact between the peltier and the copper plate directly is better than a contact with adhesive in the middle layer???
08-05-2006, 04:52 AM
#80
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
yea will it make that much of a difference???
Wouldn't a contact between the peltier and the copper plate directly is better than a contact with adhesive in the middle layer???
Wouldn't a contact between the peltier and the copper plate directly is better than a contact with adhesive in the middle layer???
08-05-2006, 05:37 AM
#81
Many years ago, a friend and I made a cell discharger with A/D converter, which connected to the joystick port of an Atari computer. The computer read the signal, sampled it and graphed. We could store the data and compare it.
08-05-2006, 06:46 AM
#83
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
yea will it make that much of a difference???
Wouldn't a contact between the peltier and the copper plate directly is better than a contact with adhesive in the middle layer???
Wouldn't a contact between the peltier and the copper plate directly is better than a contact with adhesive in the middle layer???
08-05-2006, 07:08 AM
#84
how do you power the peltier motor cooler?
08-05-2006, 03:18 PM
#86
.
08-05-2006, 03:20 PM
#87
Regular glue wont work for 2 reasons;
1. It wont handle the extreme heat/cold temperatures.
2. It will not transfer the cold from the peltiers to the clamp as the Thermal Epoxy is the main reason for this process. I seat the clamp in a fair layer of thermal epoxy for durability and effectiveness.
You would be wasting your money and time not to do it right.
1. It wont handle the extreme heat/cold temperatures.
2. It will not transfer the cold from the peltiers to the clamp as the Thermal Epoxy is the main reason for this process. I seat the clamp in a fair layer of thermal epoxy for durability and effectiveness.
You would be wasting your money and time not to do it right.
08-05-2006, 05:19 PM
#88
Originally Posted by XrayFK
If you think it won't matter then don't use it, let me know how it works out.
08-06-2006, 01:41 PM
#89
Hey guys,
I reckon the idea with the peltier cooler is too zero-cool your motor just before you race, correct? I'm sure that a permanent mounted peltier while racing will be more effective, but the question is how to power it ... from battery, eating the actual motor power?!?!? I would like to hear your comments.
What I am still doing now is too soak a chamois (sheep-skin-cloth used to dry your car after washing) glove (cut-out and sown up to fit the motor with the vents open) with water and spray it generously with nitro-freeze (I get it canned from electronic shops) just before you race. The motor is still very hot after a race, but it gives you the extra few mm's when needed to cross the finish line.
On another subject guys : On 540 silver can Johnson Stock motors : Still today I use my rubbing compound, brasso, luke warm soapy-water to run-in the brushes on these motors and get the max out these motors. Do you have any other tips to share?
Cheers.
I reckon the idea with the peltier cooler is too zero-cool your motor just before you race, correct? I'm sure that a permanent mounted peltier while racing will be more effective, but the question is how to power it ... from battery, eating the actual motor power?!?!? I would like to hear your comments.
What I am still doing now is too soak a chamois (sheep-skin-cloth used to dry your car after washing) glove (cut-out and sown up to fit the motor with the vents open) with water and spray it generously with nitro-freeze (I get it canned from electronic shops) just before you race. The motor is still very hot after a race, but it gives you the extra few mm's when needed to cross the finish line.
On another subject guys : On 540 silver can Johnson Stock motors : Still today I use my rubbing compound, brasso, luke warm soapy-water to run-in the brushes on these motors and get the max out these motors. Do you have any other tips to share?
Cheers.
08-06-2006, 02:14 PM
#90
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
http://www.svc.com/arsiltherad.html
thermal paste epoxy
kinda expensive, but so is everything else in RC
thermal paste epoxy
kinda expensive, but so is everything else in RC