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Old 02-27-2007, 10:45 AM   #1051
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There is a TA05 Lightweight Carbon Fiber Battery Brace & aluminum hardware that will fit. It works on both the Evo IV & V. For the Evo V, you will have to either shave down the plastic mounting sections a little or use some silicone tubing to get rid of the extra play.

The TB02R battery strap has the lettering silk screened on to the carbon fiber so if you don't want it showing, the strap will have to fit on a diagonal way. I would recommend using the Evo III carbon fiber strap instead as it doesn't have anything silk screen onto the strap.
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Old 02-27-2007, 11:16 AM   #1052
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Hey wrxnfx; you took the words out of My Mouth(you posted it before I could.....You get the Credit). -I was thinking about the TB Evo 3 Battery Plate. -It`s the same as the TB-02`s; just no printing.

Thanks

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Old 02-27-2007, 06:51 PM   #1053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Played with the ball studs this weekend (although on the MRE not Evo), more shims behind (moving the link forward) adds steering, but makes the car very responsive...I tried 1mm, and went back to 0.5mm straight away for the next round. Admitadly, I wasn't having the best of days, so I need to try it again (on the evo), but everyone I spoke too about it says that adding shims adds steering.
The reverse is true on the hub (moving the link back makes it less responsive)

HiH
Ed
Hi Ed,

Your finding with the shims is interesting because you're right - moving the link back on the hub to the end position reduces ackerman and should make the car less responsive. However putting shims behind the ballstud on the bellcrank should also reduce the ackerman due to a reduction in the angle of the steering links. It is all relative - all you are doing in both scenarios is to make the steering links more parallel.

I believe what you are finding is that without the shims, the ackerman is so great that it is reducing grip at the front end. And by adding a shim, you had actually optimised the ackerman more and gave more steering?

This link has a pretty good explanation on ackerman - http://www.rctek.com/handling/ackerm...principle.html

Anyway these are just my thoughts. I'd like to hear other thoughts on this as well.

Cheers,

Vincent
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Old 02-27-2007, 10:13 PM   #1054
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I just got one of these kits and was wondering if anyone has used one of the Orion lipo packs in it? I teset fitted a 4800 in another Evo V at my local track and it fit fine... I'm wondering though if I need to add some weight on the battery side in order for thr car to handle normally. I have some stick on weight (6oz worth) to use...just wondering were I should mount it...

I'll be using a GTX speedo, JR RS310 FM receiver, Futaba servo and a Cobalt 2 stock motor...just to give you a rough idea of the weight on the other side of the battery....

Any suggestions???
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Old 02-27-2007, 10:28 PM   #1055
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Just get an X-ray battery plate if you need one...
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:48 AM   #1056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veecee
Hi Ed,

Your finding with the shims is interesting because you're right - moving the link back on the hub to the end position reduces ackerman and should make the car less responsive. However putting shims behind the ballstud on the bellcrank should also reduce the ackerman due to a reduction in the angle of the steering links. It is all relative - all you are doing in both scenarios is to make the steering links more parallel.

I believe what you are finding is that without the shims, the ackerman is so great that it is reducing grip at the front end. And by adding a shim, you had actually optimised the ackerman more and gave more steering?

This link has a pretty good explanation on ackerman - http://www.rctek.com/handling/ackerm...principle.html

Anyway these are just my thoughts. I'd like to hear other thoughts on this as well.

Cheers,

Vincent
That link is great, thanks for that
I think your right in that I had come closer to optimising the steering Ackerman on the MRE... and the rest of the setup was causing my handling issues.
Looking closely at the steering setup for the Evo and MRE... there is actually a fair bit of differnece in the linkage angles (I have both of my cars in the rear hole on the hub).
The Evo has the straighter link, and the MRE more angled (some of this can be accounted for by the more forward arm position on the MRE). However, having lined the cars up side by side, it would seem the distance between the suspension block and steering posts are also different on both cars...
Not having had a problem with Mid-corner steering on the Evo, I'm goning to try and match up the steering ackerman on the MRE.
Certainly feels like this has a bit of untapped potential with this change on the cars... does seem like a lot of people prefer to use the older belt cars on carpet instead of playing with the steering setup on the new ones... I'm convinced there's no reason why the new ones can't handle the rug as well.

Cheers
Ed
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:34 AM   #1057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
That link is great, thanks for that
I think your right in that I had come closer to optimising the steering Ackerman on the MRE... and the rest of the setup was causing my handling issues.
Looking closely at the steering setup for the Evo and MRE... there is actually a fair bit of differnece in the linkage angles (I have both of my cars in the rear hole on the hub).
The Evo has the straighter link, and the MRE more angled (some of this can be accounted for by the more forward arm position on the MRE). However, having lined the cars up side by side, it would seem the distance between the suspension block and steering posts are also different on both cars...
Not having had a problem with Mid-corner steering on the Evo, I'm goning to try and match up the steering ackerman on the MRE.
Certainly feels like this has a bit of untapped potential with this change on the cars... does seem like a lot of people prefer to use the older belt cars on carpet instead of playing with the steering setup on the new ones... I'm convinced there's no reason why the new ones can't handle the rug as well.

Cheers
Ed
Well seeing you saw some noticeable difference with the 1mm spacers, I'm going to give it a go on my MSX/RE. I'm still trying to chase more steering out of my car...
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:37 PM   #1058
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Hey wrxnfx.....
-It would be easier(for Me) to use TWO TB Evo 3(Plate - 4305513) or TA05s(Plate - 53884) Battery Plates to make-up for the space between the Battery and the Plate.
- -The Stock Plate is 4.5mm Thick.....Each Carbon Plate is 2mm Thick.....2 Carbon Plates + Double Sided Tape(0.5mm Thick) = 4.5mm.
- -TWO TA05 Carbon Battery Plates will cost $48.00.
- -TWO TB Evo 3 Carbon Battery Plates will cost $24.00..........
..........If Tamiya made a Battery Plate for the Evo 5 it would be a Good thing(it would look better also).

The TA05`s Battery Plate looks Better than the TB Evo 3`s anyway.
-I`d rather Spend More to do Less Work.

Thanks

Take Care
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Old 02-28-2007, 10:09 PM   #1059
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GuyIsDamGood,
Like I was saying earlier, I use the Square evo 5 battery strap. Instead of two straps, which would be twice the weight of course, why not take up the extra space w/ O-rings on the battery post? This would give you a nice tight fit. Order from battery up would be:
1)battery,
2)Tamiya TA05, EVO III or IV, Or TB-02(R) Carbon strap
3) # of o-rings,
4) snap (retaining) pin.

Just a suggestion. O-rings are alot less expensive than a 2nd carbon strap.
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:05 AM   #1060
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finally got an evo 5!!
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:34 AM   #1061
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Dtech, that's exactly what I did to mine. What I used was some silicone tubing from my real car and just cut it to the size that I needed.
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:07 PM   #1062
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is it possible to run a 48dp 65/34 or 55/28 (spur/pinion) will they both fit?

Cheers
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Last edited by surrealmaterial; 03-01-2007 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:15 PM   #1063
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Hey Dtech and surrealmaterial; you guys are right(Dtech; I`ve never said you were wrong). But I`m a Lazy Guy. I don`t like to go over-board on a R.C. Car.....My Mini-Van.....just a little bit.

I`ll have to cut down the Plastic Battery Post and use a Small Snap Pin(Body Clip) on the Rear Post.


Hey surrealmaterial; I don`t use 48-Pitch Gears.....I can`t help you on that part.


I really don`t know what to set the Front and Rear Droop on. I have the Front Droop at 6 and the Rear Droop at 5.
-I can`t find any Pro Set-Up Tips for the Evo 5 at the Tamiya America site.

Anyone have any Droop Info?

Thanks

Take Care

Last edited by GuyIsDamGood; 03-02-2007 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:09 AM   #1064
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hey,

i need to run a 39mm rollout for 540 in my evo 5........what spur/pinion should i use? (48pitch)

Thanks
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Old 03-03-2007, 01:47 AM   #1065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surrealmaterial
hey,

i need to run a 39mm rollout for 540 in my evo 5........what spur/pinion should i use? (48pitch)

Thanks
36/75 = 38.98 rollout
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