198LikesXPRESS Execute XQ2S
02-28-2022, 06:46 PM
#346
The 10R system is a more logical solution (more like what I have on my xray) and i've implemented it, but the length of the sway bar is a bit longer than needed which means as one arm goes up, the ball joints would be pushed even further back than it already is. The only way I see to get the assembly to be perfectly vertical would be to trim the bar back a little. In the images it hard to see, but the joint are not straight up and down which is what I would prefer. .
02-28-2022, 07:28 PM
#347
Tech Apprentice
Yes I did, but find it annoying that I have to pop off the ball joints to adjust the length. And even if you do, you are almost forced to make a complete turn on the ball cup which might be too much. This is not an issue if you have absolutely no tweak in your bar or if your car is perfect across the axle. But if you have to make an adjustment this system is not ideal.
The 10R system is a more logical solution (more like what I have on my xray) and i've implemented it, but the length of the sway bar is a bit longer than needed which means as one arm goes up, the ball joints would be pushed even further back than it already is. The only way I see to get the assembly to be perfectly vertical would be to trim the bar back a little. In the images it hard to see, but the joint are not straight up and down which is what I would prefer. .
The 10R system is a more logical solution (more like what I have on my xray) and i've implemented it, but the length of the sway bar is a bit longer than needed which means as one arm goes up, the ball joints would be pushed even further back than it already is. The only way I see to get the assembly to be perfectly vertical would be to trim the bar back a little. In the images it hard to see, but the joint are not straight up and down which is what I would prefer. .
02-28-2022, 10:14 PM
#348
Tech Regular
I make my own bars from spring steel at the LHS. Just have to make sure they are flat on your setup board before installing.
Just need the red thing to center the bar in the bulkhead. I also use the gray end links because you have to be able to tweak your sway bar, otherwise you won't get any sleep the night before a race. 👍
Just need the red thing to center the bar in the bulkhead. I also use the gray end links because you have to be able to tweak your sway bar, otherwise you won't get any sleep the night before a race. 👍
03-01-2022, 12:13 AM
#349
I wonder if getting the roll-bars set from XQ10 (XP-10155) would fit? Anyone tried before?
03-01-2022, 02:26 AM
#351
Thank you for the info. Then best bet would probably be to file each ends of the roll-bars 0.5mm (?) at a time until the ball ends can sit vertically
03-01-2022, 07:35 AM
#352
I make my own bars from spring steel at the LHS. Just have to make sure they are flat on your setup board before installing.
Just need the red thing to center the bar in the bulkhead. I also use the gray end links because you have to be able to tweak your sway bar, otherwise you won't get any sleep the night before a race. 👍
Just need the red thing to center the bar in the bulkhead. I also use the gray end links because you have to be able to tweak your sway bar, otherwise you won't get any sleep the night before a race. 👍
03-01-2022, 10:02 AM
#353
Tech Regular
See now, I've considered making my own before but didn't know if I would be considered crazy for doing so. Right now I know I have a tweak in one of my bars and hence all of the effort to convert to a system that would allow me to compensate for it. Outside of that, no amount of me trying to bend the bars back to 'flat' seems to get me there. The bar just springs back tweaked. Thanks for the "tid bit".
03-03-2022, 03:26 AM
#354
Tech Rookie
that's a nice tub, is it optional?
03-03-2022, 10:48 AM
#355
Remember, there is static tweak and dynamic tweak. You can get a zero static tweak but still have dynamic tweak due to the memory of the spring steel. You can flex it back out to neutral, but it takes patience.
With static tweak at zero, it will accelerate straight, but if there is dynamic tweak, it will react differently turning one way versus the other. It was really easy to define with a pan car. The pod would be flat when tested from the middle, but lift each rear tire and measure the height when the front tire lifted and they would be different, that was dynamic tweak. It might work on a TC chassis, but I think the extra weight of a TC and the relatively light sway bars we run would make it more difficult.
With static tweak at zero, it will accelerate straight, but if there is dynamic tweak, it will react differently turning one way versus the other. It was really easy to define with a pan car. The pod would be flat when tested from the middle, but lift each rear tire and measure the height when the front tire lifted and they would be different, that was dynamic tweak. It might work on a TC chassis, but I think the extra weight of a TC and the relatively light sway bars we run would make it more difficult.
03-04-2022, 01:42 PM
#356
@ntc3freak - If you're running the Q2 buy the Q2 sway bars. Just get the composite ball cups or even use the one from the default sway bar kit for the bottom assembly (the part that attaches to the arms), they are the same size as what you would find on the upgraded kits with this system. Then just replace the hex screw with a ball stud and add part number xp-10652. It's probably the cheapest upgrade that you will ever do, and it is worth the time for what you get 100%!!!
03-07-2022, 05:47 PM
#357
is there anyway you can post part numbers for all the upgrade parts you put in the XQ2S? and was it all direct fit or did you have to modify anything? thanks for the help.
03-07-2022, 05:48 PM
#358
my .02
i have both. The xq10 and xq2s. I run the xq10 in vta and xq2s in usgt. I thought the exact same thing. When I put the xq2s and all the upgraded parts I thought I wanted, the difference wasn’t much. So the I bought the xq10 first. So, when I bought the xq2s, I thought I will run it like it is and see what I need. So far, I have put x-square djc axles, front out drive cups, and steering rack in it and I upgraded to the aluminum servo mount and springs, and aluminum hinge pin holders. I bought some aluminum hexes, 6, & 7 mm, for both cars and so now the xq2s has aluminum hexes. If money is no object, yeah. Xq10r all day. (You might check that out). But if I had to do it all over again, xq2s for both cars….
ps. The one thing I like about the xq2s over the xq10 is the c hubs. My xq2s came with v2 hubs so it has the flanged king pin collar…
i have both. The xq10 and xq2s. I run the xq10 in vta and xq2s in usgt. I thought the exact same thing. When I put the xq2s and all the upgraded parts I thought I wanted, the difference wasn’t much. So the I bought the xq10 first. So, when I bought the xq2s, I thought I will run it like it is and see what I need. So far, I have put x-square djc axles, front out drive cups, and steering rack in it and I upgraded to the aluminum servo mount and springs, and aluminum hinge pin holders. I bought some aluminum hexes, 6, & 7 mm, for both cars and so now the xq2s has aluminum hexes. If money is no object, yeah. Xq10r all day. (You might check that out). But if I had to do it all over again, xq2s for both cars….
ps. The one thing I like about the xq2s over the xq10 is the c hubs. My xq2s came with v2 hubs so it has the flanged king pin collar…
is there anyway you can post part numbers for all the upgrade parts you put in the XQ2S? and was it all direct fit or did you have to modify anything? thanks for the help.
03-07-2022, 05:53 PM
#359
03-07-2022, 05:54 PM
#360