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Old 11-09-2009, 02:08 AM   #11341
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I too soak the belts, and normally cut every other tooth on the belt rather than the pulleys. Are you referring to both the layshaft pulleys and diff pulleys?. surely doing the pulleys is a chore of note, and would be easier to do the belt?
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:31 AM   #11342
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Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Stock up on extra diff bolts/nuts. Associated part # 6575. Around $2.90 or less at most places.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.

Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
I was looking on AE's website, and found another page, where KHebert talked about his setup, He said he likes to use the dif nut that comes with the B4/T4's... Might be worth a cheap try. I mena.. If people are having to much trouble with these little terds... Is there a aluminum or something solution?
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:56 PM   #11343
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I too soak the belts, and normally cut every other tooth on the belt rather than the pulleys. Are you referring to both the layshaft pulleys and diff pulleys?. surely doing the pulleys is a chore of note, and would be easier to do the belt?
Hi!

Try TRF 416 front belt it is 172T, normal and low friction.
It should help.

Rear is 64T so don't try team bomber (TB is 63T and is too short).

Regards!
m
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:07 PM   #11344
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I would recommend running the Associated belt. I honestly never had 1 issue with them and I dont cut any tooth or put anything on the belt and they run fine. I feel like when they are new they can be a bit tight but once you run them they are good and last years ! I also feel like my drivetrain is free no problem there.
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:54 PM   #11345
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I would recommend running the Associated belt. I honestly never had 1 issue with them and I dont cut any tooth or put anything on the belt and they run fine. I feel like when they are new they can be a bit tight but once you run them they are good and last years ! I also feel like my drivetrain is free no problem there.
keven!
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:59 PM   #11346
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what bodies do you guys run on your tc5. i have one been running mazda speed 6 i was wondering if the new bodies that have came out are better than the mazda. i havent ran in a year and trying to get back into it for next year.
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:16 PM   #11347
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Originally Posted by performance26 View Post
what bodies do you guys run on your tc5. i have one been running mazda speed 6 i was wondering if the new bodies that have came out are better than the mazda. i havent ran in a year and trying to get back into it for next year.
protoform ltcr love this body
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:00 PM   #11348
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what bodies do you guys run on your tc5. i have one been running mazda speed 6 i was wondering if the new bodies that have came out are better than the mazda. i havent ran in a year and trying to get back into it for next year.
I've been running LTC-R and the Mazda Speed6.
My Speed6
My LTC-R

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Mind sharing that low traction rubber/asphalt setup? I've been after one myself. Slowly getting there but the car is still looser than I'd like.
Here you go, when I ran with Gold rear springs and no rear sway bar I managed to break my PB from 19.1 secs to 18.9 secs. Adding the blue rear springs and the rear sway bar has improved the car for me.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:02 PM   #11349
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what bodies do you guys run on your tc5. i have one been running mazda speed 6 i was wondering if the new bodies that have came out are better than the mazda. i havent ran in a year and trying to get back into it for next year.
You still cant go wrong with a M.S. 6. The LTC-R has just a tick more steering if you want it. The R9-R is very aggresive/loose, almost no-one runs it because of that.
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Old 11-12-2009, 01:18 AM   #11350
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for anyone thats interested iv just finished cnc machining a batch of uprated tc5 bulkheads. as quite a few people were interested.

if you would like to contact me my email is below.

greig76@hotmail.com

anembo-engineering@live.co.uk

thanks greig
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:05 AM   #11351
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Does anyone have the parts list and instructions for the mod that allows you to run the Losi LCDs?
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Old 11-12-2009, 11:43 AM   #11352
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Does anyone have the parts list and instructions for the mod that allows you to run the Losi LCDs?
Another option I tested last weekend is the HB DCJ joints. To use these, you need the HB DCJ joint, cyclone wheel hexes (which come with the roll pins), and 5x10x3 bearings. Using these parts, along with the kit steering blocks, everything fits fine, just need to drill out the stock blade for the larger pin on the HB axle.

For the bearings, I was only able to find them here:
http://jaghobbies.com/rc_planes/hbk3.htm
Part EK1-0550

I like the HB axles over the Losi axles, as they seem to be much smoother.

As with the Losi axles, you'll have to dremel some relief into the caster blocks.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:03 PM   #11353
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My TC5R is relatively new. I just started driving touring cars again. Has anyone had any problems getting the motor to slide back far enough when using a smaller than 96T (64P) spur? With our new track layout, I need to re-gear the car and can't seem to get the pinion and spur to mesh.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:40 PM   #11354
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Originally Posted by Keven H View Post
I would recommend running the Associated belt. I honestly never had 1 issue with them and I dont cut any tooth or put anything on the belt and they run fine. I feel like when they are new they can be a bit tight but once you run them they are good and last years ! I also feel like my drivetrain is free no problem there.
Thanks Keven, at the IIC did you run the standard motor position, or was the motor mount inline with the rear bulkhead?
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:40 AM   #11355
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Originally Posted by Barneys Racing View Post
My TC5R is relatively new. I just started driving touring cars again. Has anyone had any problems getting the motor to slide back far enough when using a smaller than 96T (64P) spur? With our new track layout, I need to re-gear the car and can't seem to get the pinion and spur to mesh.
I think this is will be a problem on most cars, if the gearing gets high enough.
The solution is to run a bigger spur and pinion, but I guess you already knew that.

Regards

Neal
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