Redwood

I see your point here, and it can be concerning to think that you motor and spur might separate under high flex.

I have considered what 'high flex' is though, and if you take your car and attampt to flex it around the centreline, it is not easy, it takes considerable force to feel and effect at all. If you then consider that optimum gear mesh has a gap between spur and pinion, then there is room for movement between the two without much loss of power (I suspect, perhaps it is significant, but my instinct is that is is almost trivial).

As for the battery bar, I am running lipo with a cuboid shape, and if I screw either thumbscrew too tightly down then the battery strap simply bends at the end. This cannot be good for flex/tweak. So I tighten them till they will not come off, but not so much that it would start to add to chassis flex. Also the bottom of the thumbscrews are bevelled, which will deflect any flex/torque.

There is another way to tackle this problem. I saw some guys running new, custom bulkheads, which can be seen here:

www DOT aeforums.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=3647 (apologies, my post count is not yet high enough)

They attach the motor to the bulkhead directly, and the motor 'floats'. The guys I talked to were impressed by them, and they look good to me, but I have other things on my wish list ahead of these for now.

I believe there was already a discussion about them in this thread before though, so I would recommend looking back for it.

Regards

Neal

Redwood

The bulkheads can also be found here:

www DOT rctech.net/forum/electric-road/285985-tc5-modified-bulkheads-lipo-plate.html

I attempted to edit my previous post to accomodate this, but it wouldn't let me, so apologies for double post.

Regards

Neal

medservr

Fellow TC5ers,

Does anyone have a cure for the steering mechanism slop that is caused by the ball cups and ball ends in the steering mechanism of the TC5? When I move both wheels back and forth with my hands while the servo is in a centered position, it seems that the wheels move independantly of the servo quite a bit. I can see that this is occurring because the contacts between the ball ends and ball cups are not snug. I tried replacing the ball cups, but that didn't do anything. Thanks for your help.

Joel

raven101

iTrader: (4)

while building my kit i used the rpm ball cups through out the car and have not noticed that issue. you could try using them they are a bit tighter than the stock ones.

medservr

Thanks for the suggestion. Why did you go straight to RPM ball cups? Are AE ball cup known to have this problem.

Joel

raven101

iTrader: (4)

i have just noticed every AE kit i have built there is alot of play between the ball stud and factory cup and i have allways used rpm ball cups. example i just bought an sc10 and i used the factory ball cups, i just touch something with the front wheels and the steering ball cups pop off

revo61

iTrader: (18)

What size cups did you get?

raven101

iTrader: (4)

i used the short shank cups. the ball end on all the rpm cups i do believe are all the same size the shank that the turnbuckle screws in is the only differance i have ever seen.

73381 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 (White)

Suggested Retail $4.95

medservr

Thanks for your help Raven.

Now for one more question:

Does anyone have any information on the Exotekracing.com TC5 Chassis that is supposed to be "coming soon"? I believe they are calling it the "TC5X Conversion". I can't wait to see this chassis and of course, buy it. I'd love to know when it's coming out and if there are any sneek peek photos out there.

Thanks, Joel

poochy

iTrader: (11)

the slop is from the steering post and the bearings it goes through--remove upperdeck--remove steering blue rign washer--apply threadlock in the gap between the upper bearing and steering post--wait 15 min--WALALAL--90% of the slop gone!

you can do a search on this thread and you'll find that this works.

medservr

That sounds like a great idea. I'm going to try it as soon as I get home. I can't picture in my mind how the threadlock would make that much of a difference, so I can't wait to try it out. Also, as you mentioned, I found this trick on page 533 of this forum.

Keiran

Anyone got a solution to stop the motor from scuffing the ground? I've recently gone brushless which is causing me some problems with the motor scuffing along the ground, the picture shows what it looks like only after a few runs. I'm running the car at 6.5mm and have tried putting a bit of lexan between it and the chassis. The only solution I've come to is to wrap lots of tape around it and replace it after every run. Anyone else got the same problem?

robk

iTrader: (22)

I wouldn't do this for carpet. I have inadvertently left the screw out and the chassis will flex enough to chew the spur.

The reason the motor mount is a separate piece is so that the flex is more symmetrical with all the screws attached. Two different length bulkheads, as it would be if the motor side was one piece, is a bigger problem.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

I think you might have bigger issues- if you've raised the ride height that much and the motor is still scuffing (along with how bad your chassis is scuffing by looking at that pic) you need to stiffen up the suspension more. Your car will experience random push then breaking loose effects if you don't do something about all the chassis scraping. 7mm ride heights or more is not uncommon at our loose bumpy home town track just to maintain proper corner speeds

John_S

Buy the new bulkheads