UF1 is Back In SoCal!
#392
You know what else would be fun, if the finishing order for the first Formula E race decides the picking order to select car numbers for next season
#394
Question, for the Formula E Stock Hobby Wing ESC, are you allowed to change the motor wire color to all black/blue or do you have to run the stock red, orange, yellow & blue wires?
And also, for the stock Hobby Wing ESC, does it matter the type of battery you use? I mean in like in terms of the ESC description of continious 60A/380A peak...do I need a battery under 60C or can you go with the 100C to 120C batteries.
This is the first time I'll run any stock esc class and a little more info before I buy a pair of batteries for this class would be great.
Would also be nice to know what kind of mAh rating you would need for this type of car, I'm assuming 5000-8000.
(Moneys a little tight right now, so I'd like to make the best decision on a battery)
And also, for the stock Hobby Wing ESC, does it matter the type of battery you use? I mean in like in terms of the ESC description of continious 60A/380A peak...do I need a battery under 60C or can you go with the 100C to 120C batteries.
This is the first time I'll run any stock esc class and a little more info before I buy a pair of batteries for this class would be great.
Would also be nice to know what kind of mAh rating you would need for this type of car, I'm assuming 5000-8000.
(Moneys a little tight right now, so I'd like to make the best decision on a battery)
Last edited by GT CRUSING; 09-15-2020 at 04:51 PM.
#395
Don't worry about C ratings. Batteries provide current when needed, they don't ram it through your system by force. Besides, even 60C would mean 200-300 amps or more (depending on capacity, of course) - if C ratings were real these days...
#396
Question, for the Formula E Stock Hobby Wing ESC, are you allowed to change the motor wire color to all black/blue or do you have to run the stock red, orange, yellow & blue wires?
And also, for the stock Hobby Wing ESC, does it matter the type of battery you use? I mean in like in terms of the ESC description of continious 60A/380A peak...do I need a battery under 60C or can you go with the 100C to 120C batteries.
This is the first time I'll run any stock esc class and a little more info before I buy a pair of batteries for this class would be great.
Would also be nice to know what kind of mAh rating you would need for this type of car, I'm assuming 5000-8000.
(Moneys a little tight right now, so I'd like to make the best decision on a battery)
And also, for the stock Hobby Wing ESC, does it matter the type of battery you use? I mean in like in terms of the ESC description of continious 60A/380A peak...do I need a battery under 60C or can you go with the 100C to 120C batteries.
This is the first time I'll run any stock esc class and a little more info before I buy a pair of batteries for this class would be great.
Would also be nice to know what kind of mAh rating you would need for this type of car, I'm assuming 5000-8000.
(Moneys a little tight right now, so I'd like to make the best decision on a battery)
Spec class racing does mean a better battery will provide better results, but as DirkW mentioned the ESC will only pull what is needed. I've been running a 5500mAh pack in mine (an old one at that) and it's been doing just fine for 6 minutes. A fresh pack would be even better, but I would say at least 5000mAh.
Last edited by TPhalen; 09-17-2020 at 07:10 PM.
#400
For formula e, do you have to use the helmet that comes in the kit or can you use another?
The Kit helmet is 4.6g and the ones I have ready to go are 3.2g & 6.3g (Non Tamiya)
I dont mind decaling up a new one, but I’m not a huge fan of the helmet shape in the kit...too wide and stock white is well ah, I wish it was black
Its a minor fashion thing and i’m sure the performance difference is very minimal between them, but just checking
The Kit helmet is 4.6g and the ones I have ready to go are 3.2g & 6.3g (Non Tamiya)
I dont mind decaling up a new one, but I’m not a huge fan of the helmet shape in the kit...too wide and stock white is well ah, I wish it was black
Its a minor fashion thing and i’m sure the performance difference is very minimal between them, but just checking
#402
#403
#404
I do not have a problem with shortening the wires (obviously), but to keep it fair for everyone, the stock colored wiring needs to be used. I don't want to have any issues with someone swapping out the wires to a different gauge, thus POTENTIALLY giving a slight power advantage. Yes, I know it would be SLIGHT, but you know how people are once a loophole opens in a Spec class.
Sorry if this causes any inconvenience.
#405
For formula e, do you have to use the helmet that comes in the kit or can you use another?
The Kit helmet is 4.6g and the ones I have ready to go are 3.2g & 6.3g (Non Tamiya)
I dont mind decaling up a new one, but I’m not a huge fan of the helmet shape in the kit...too wide and stock white is well ah, I wish it was black
Its a minor fashion thing and i’m sure the performance difference is very minimal between them, but just checking
The Kit helmet is 4.6g and the ones I have ready to go are 3.2g & 6.3g (Non Tamiya)
I dont mind decaling up a new one, but I’m not a huge fan of the helmet shape in the kit...too wide and stock white is well ah, I wish it was black
Its a minor fashion thing and i’m sure the performance difference is very minimal between them, but just checking