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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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01-13-2017, 02:11 AM

#46

justpoet

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Yeah, definitely interested to see what they come up with. Be it completely radically different, a shrunk down EB48, or similar to others with Tekno durability/performance/ease of tuning.

01-13-2017, 12:11 PM

#47

Cain

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I think one thing I hope they can emphasize is a low screw count balanced with ease of access to various things like the diffs. One thing I don't like about my durango is out of the box the servo mounting setup is more involved that it really should be. Should be something simple to just pull and replace. Same with diffs.

Also, if there are areas were a cap head screw offers better screw reliability versus a flat or button head, use that. AE's B6 has a screw that is buried down in its front brace for a lack of a better word that I can just see getting stripped when using the stock button head versus a more robust cap head.

01-13-2017, 01:35 PM

#48

kms7852

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with the bulletproof differentials they have, I hope I can run my 6700mah 4S battery on the new EB410. Compatibility is a big key to many "amateurs".

Keep RC Fun and Keep Consumer's wallet happy

01-13-2017, 01:36 PM

#49

EbbTide

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Is it too much to ask for a chassis picture? =D I'm drooling over this new kit already.

01-13-2017, 01:51 PM

#50

advpball

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I hope the tire offset is same as associated's , so my tires work..

01-13-2017, 04:04 PM

#51

justpoet

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kms7852

with the bulletproof differentials they have, I hope I can run my 6700mah 4S battery on the new EB410. Compatibility is a big key to many "amateurs".

Keep RC Fun and Keep Consumer's wallet happy

That's not something to hope for or expect in a 10th scale racing 4wd buggy due to weight and size. You can do that with the EB48SL though. You might be able to jack up weight balance though and use something like the SMC 4s shorty pack and a 4 pole 540 SC motor of low KV if you alter a holder and a body, but any 10th scale race buggy can't be expected to account for anything other than 2s packs, or maybe a slightly thicker 3s pack. I'm not saying Tekno can't or won't do it, but I would be EXTREMELY surprised to see a full sized 8th scale 4s pack fitting in a 10th scale buggy.

01-14-2017, 03:34 AM

#52

Cain

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agreed there justpoet. Maybe he ment that he is running 2 2S lipos together and wanted 1 of them to work on the eb410?

It seems that stick pack designs have kind of gone to the way side, and with Tekno targeting this for racing, i'd be surprised (assuming they went with similar layouts as others) if a stick pack would work.

However, until we see what they have up there sleeves we don't know. It would be interesting to see if a scaled down Eb48 layout would work in 1/10 .

01-15-2017, 08:15 AM

#53

kms7852

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Makes sense
I already own EB48.3, SCT410.3 and ET48.3
They all use same 4S 6700mah batteries.

It's unfortunate for consumer point of view that EB410 can't use the same batteries as the other three Tekno vehicles I already own.
I guess i'll be buying even more batteries dedicated just for EB410. $$

Agh at least I hope they keep many other parts compatible...

01-15-2017, 08:55 AM

#54

racingnewb

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10th scale buggys and 8th scale vehicles are very different. I'd be surprised if any 8th scale/sct parts interchange w/ the 10th scale buggy.

01-15-2017, 08:55 AM

#55

Cain

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I guess it comes down to what your purposes for the vehicle is. Tekno originally was targeted its vehicles for racing from my understanding. I wouldnt' expect them to make a the EB410 to be anything less, and would use batteries designed for that.

Good thing though is that shorty lipos can be had for pretty reasonable prices.

01-15-2017, 03:38 PM

#56

snwchris

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There is no need for a 1/10 4w buggy to use a 4s lipo, they are already rockets on 2s and 6.5 and 5.5 motors. I can turn faster laps with my 4w buggy then my Ebuggy.
Plus half the people seem to over power their cars and can't control them, would hate to see someone trying to control a 4s 4w buggy.
Then you also have the issue of nation wide track rules of using 2s lipos

01-15-2017, 03:41 PM

#57

snwchris

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If they are able able to keep parts compatible great, but most 4w buggy diffs are half the size of an Ebuggy diff, based on layout, chassis size and reducing the overall weight

01-15-2017, 06:57 PM

#58

SCserfur

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SUBSCRIBED!!! I Cant wait! Need more input!

01-17-2017, 11:03 AM

#59

kms7852

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Quote:

Originally Posted by snwchris

If they are able able to keep parts compatible great, but most 4w buggy diffs are half the size of an Ebuggy diff, based on layout, chassis size and reducing the overall weight

Based on your experience, how does 1/10th scale buggy handle compared to 1/8th E-Buggy?

I already own EB48.3 and I enjoy running it on indoor and outdoor tracks.
Can EB410 1/10th scale buggy be run outdoors as well?

Or is it strictly for indoor clay usage tracks?

Outdoor tracks definitely have larger jumps and dirt and rocks etc more break prone aspects.

01-17-2017, 11:12 AM

#60

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kms7852

You can absolutely run a 1/10 4wd buggy outdoors. They're not great when tracks are severely blown out with little rocks jutting out but a well groomed outdoor track even a really loamy one is fine for them. As for durability, I've only ever driven a Kyosho zx5 and an AE b44.3 and both of them had their weak spots. But I am hoping Tekno makes this eb410 a little tank like their other kits

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