jpas

iTrader: (1)

Please post it, I'm anxious to try your setup to see how it works. Thank you!!

Mav_64

If you type in Rc campos Mallorca...you can see the type of track im racing on. Its mainly loose dirt with big astro jumps!

Spoke with another guy today and tried my car for the 2nd time. Much better!
Diff oils: 7000/4000/2000.
Shocks:
front: 1.2/8 oil: 55w yellow spring
Rear: 1.3/8 oil: 50w yellow

Inner turn buckle at the rear: I moved to hole 2 to give a bit more of an incline.

2 degrees camber on the back. 1.5 on the front with 0.5 toe out.

Its not perfect and everyone is different,but for me it was VERY drivable and a good base to start 'tweaking' from

Dont know if this helps anyone, but thought id share as my first day the rear was very loose and much harder for me to drive

Yodah

iTrader: (57)

First Day with my car as well...I had to move the rear shocks all the way out on the tower, drop the inner link on the shock tower in the rear...and add some anti squat back in the
C- Plate to get the rear end to calm down coming out of any type of turns....Still got work to do...Usually my cars would rotate and you can get in throttle to pull it right out , but not with this stock setup....
I am curious ....Who came up with that stock setup in the manual? And where does it actually work.... You can't push the car at all....Loose is fast, but the stock setup is beyond loose.....Lol.

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

The formula for this car, the D812 and the D815's is all the same. Use the pills in the c and d block to raise the rear hinge pins. Try 1 or 2 dots up in the C block and 1 dot down in the D block. That is going to control rear roll more than any of the other r/c adjustments. The rest of the kit setup listed at the end of the manual should be ok. If you need more stability, put a 2.6 rear sway bar on and a 2.4 front sway bar on. I haven't used 1.5x5 pistons in a long time so i can't remember the right oil for a given temperature, but your suspension should feel rather thick on the bench otherwise on track it'll blow through the stroke. It's a different bench feel than other pistons I've tried. Oh, increase rear diff oil 1 more k to 3k. Put the carbon inserts in the rear arms. PuT the CaRbOn insErts in the REAr arms. Now the car could kick the rear end out, but it'll be controllable with the throttle instead of snap oversteer or tank slapper entering the straight. The rest of the set up at the back of the manual should be fine. If you need to calm it down a little more, move the front upper link to the center hole on the hub. Lower the rear link on the tower. From this point if the car feels like it's too stiff and the car doesn't want to complete a corner work back the other way a little at a time. This should get you in the ball park and increase your driving satisfaction. Suspension geometry matched to track grip and driver skill determine how dialed the driver perceives the car to be. One setup doesn't fit all levels of grip. The kit setup on a relatively loose track will probably be ok. If your track is medium to medium high grip, the rear will probably snap oversteer on hard power out of tight corners and do the tank slapper thing coming on to the straight on hard power. Ty likes his car to be able to flail about, but he has special skills.

I've been preparing to update the Wiki in the D815 thread with this info for those who need the help as it is an ongoing complaint.

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

How many packs did you run that first day? A brand new build will naturally be more loose due to the outdrives and pins are not yet worn in.

Ryan Lutz explain it along with a procedure to accelerate the process when it comes time to replace said part or when building a new kit:

+ YouTube Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo4qiKZL5AE

Alternatively, just keep running it until the those areas are completely broken in...

Yodah

iTrader: (57)

Thanks..... Not many packs at all.... It was at a track that I had never been to and I was getting a feel with new everything....still finished 4th though

Yodah

iTrader: (57)

That statement is spot on! That is what I did to control the rear....along with a couple other small changes to the rear. Now I am going to walk 1 or 2 of them back a step.

Also is that 3K rear diff AE or PT? AE 3K is about 5K in PT Diff fluid

sstoffer

iTrader: (44)

ST-RR Evo's suggestions are pretty close to what I have been running in my buggy with very good success. I did switch out the carbon inserts for plastic this weekend because of a very aggressive and long whoop section in the track and I thought the added flex might actually help. When I had the 5x1.4 and 5x1.5 pistons I couldn't get the oil thick enough to feel good and still have enough pack. It was so bad with the 5x1.5's up front that the steep jump faces wore through the front bumper and took enough material from the A block that I replaced it. Now I have the stock 6x1.3 in the front and 6x1.3, with 3 holes drilled to 1.4 in the back.

ek9russ

Did you follow the set up from the build instructions or the set up sheet in the back of the manual? As they differ from each other...

I changed mine to the set up in the back when I realised they were different from each other and got on a lot better

SEF

iTrader: (39)

Here is my base setup. I still plan on doing a bunch more testing, but here is where I am after my initial testing.

Cuebulon

I will try this at my next visit to the track. thanks for the report!

Cuebulon

What style of track did you run this on?

SEF

iTrader: (39)

I generally run outdoors with medium traction (Thunder Alley and Revelation Raceway). I also ran this same setup at OCRC which is indoor clay with medium traction and it was still really good.

A good base setup will be good on many different tracks, and only a few minor changes will be required to get it dialed.

brokenmoto

iTrader: (1)

Finally got my 1st pack threw the girl. Fun! I didn't use the either set up in the manual and didn't seem to have many handling issues. 1st couple laps had to rain in the power and get that dialed in. After that it seemed pretty good. It definitely wants to be drove "in the line" it got whippy if i over drove it but if you grab the gas it straightens right back out. IMO. I personally will go with the short rear tower, really feels the same as the 815 to me. Short tower helped me through sweepers big time and I actually forgot how hard it is to get this car through a long turn with the high tower. Good times to be had!

Cuebulon

So, on a medium to low bite I could still tweak from there and be #dialed?