243LikesTLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
06-20-2016, 06:37 AM - Wikipost
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08-15-2016, 11:08 PM
#453
Thats surprising....I thought the reason the new car is so good and feels different than 1.0 was 90% down to the gear diffs. With the other 10% being the other updates. Guess thats why I'm a midpack scrub and they're freaking RC aliens!
08-17-2016, 07:25 PM
#454
I just wanted to update my thoughts on the car. I've club raced it twice at SRI Louisvile, 3 or 4 practice days at Ohio RC Factory, and raced the Scotty Ernst Shootout at Sparks Park in Columbus. My earlier issues with steering inconsistencies appear to have been solved by Frank's suggestion to make sure to torque down the servo. Haven't an issue since.
Durability wise it's been great, I broke a front and rear shock tower (not worried about those failures, because if you'd seen the size of the triple at SRI that caused those breaks, you'd understand). Ive also had 2-3 times that the outer rear ballstuds have pull themselves out of the hubs. I've replaced the 8mm ballstuds with 10mm: hopefully this will solve that issue. I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.
The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
Durability wise it's been great, I broke a front and rear shock tower (not worried about those failures, because if you'd seen the size of the triple at SRI that caused those breaks, you'd understand). Ive also had 2-3 times that the outer rear ballstuds have pull themselves out of the hubs. I've replaced the 8mm ballstuds with 10mm: hopefully this will solve that issue. I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.
The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
08-18-2016, 08:09 AM
#455
I just wanted to update my thoughts on the car. I've club raced it twice at SRI Louisvile, 3 or 4 practice days at Ohio RC Factory, and raced the Scotty Ernst Shootout at Sparks Park in Columbus. My earlier issues with steering inconsistencies appear to have been solved by Frank's suggestion to make sure to torque down the servo. Haven't an issue since.
Durability wise it's been great, I broke a front and rear shock tower (not worried about those failures, because if you'd seen the size of the triple at SRI that caused those breaks, you'd understand). Ive also had 2-3 times that the outer rear ballstuds have pull themselves out of the hubs. I've replaced the 8mm ballstuds with 10mm: hopefully this will solve that issue. I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.
The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
Durability wise it's been great, I broke a front and rear shock tower (not worried about those failures, because if you'd seen the size of the triple at SRI that caused those breaks, you'd understand). Ive also had 2-3 times that the outer rear ballstuds have pull themselves out of the hubs. I've replaced the 8mm ballstuds with 10mm: hopefully this will solve that issue. I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.
The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
08-18-2016, 11:10 AM
#456
I also had a ballcup that connects the bellcrank to the servo rip of the turnbuckle. Just goes to show the forces 4wd buggies have to deal with. I personally don't trust that part, and would like a longer ballcup so more thread is on the turnbuckle, but the ballstuds are a weird size and it's will probably be hard to find longer ones that fit? Maybe an old Losi pre 22 might work like what would've come with a XXX or XX-4.
The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
The front arms are showing a lot of wear from high speed jump face that compresses the suspension at the factory, but I yet to break one of them (jinx), they seem much more durable than the 1.0 arms/front brace. However, the tradeoff seem to be way more slop in the front bulkhead, Ive go so lots of movement in the front hinge pins. I guess the bulkhead will need to be changed out regularly.
I wouldn't worry about the front end play, if you crack that bulkhead you'll know something is wrong very quickly when driving it. The new front end design is pure awesome. I broke front arms on my 1.0 car pretty regularly but I still have yet to break one on my 2.0, and it's been raced at least once a week since the car was released.
08-18-2016, 11:22 AM
#457
I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
08-18-2016, 11:30 AM
#458
If you look back in this thread there are part numbers listed for some older ball cups and turnbuckles for that steering rod that should be beefier, they're for an older Losi vehicle of some type. FWIW I have found that most of the time I have seen a local with problems with that rod, it's been because their steering EPA is set too high and it's the servo that's jerking the rod out of the cup.
I wouldn't worry about the front end play, if you crack that bulkhead you'll know something is wrong very quickly when driving it. The new front end design is pure awesome. I broke front arms on my 1.0 car pretty regularly but I still have yet to break one on my 2.0, and it's been raced at least once a week since the car was released.
I wouldn't worry about the front end play, if you crack that bulkhead you'll know something is wrong very quickly when driving it. The new front end design is pure awesome. I broke front arms on my 1.0 car pretty regularly but I still have yet to break one on my 2.0, and it's been raced at least once a week since the car was released.
08-18-2016, 12:57 PM
#459
I've never been out to the Hobbyplex, did the team switch to Ball Diffs because the track was loose and they were looking for extra grip? From what I understand the ball diff should be for anything from loose/loamy outdoor low bite to medium bite, and the gear diff should be better on med/high bite (watered indoor clay) up to high-bite carpet.
I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
08-18-2016, 02:12 PM
#460
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
For med/high bite tracks where slicks are the tire of choice, are most flipping the arms and running the shocks in the front like we were doing with the 1.0? Also when doing this , I think I read it's necessary to put a 1mm ball stud washer on the upper shock mount to get the correct shock geometry?
Thank you in advance for any help.
Thank you in advance for any help.
08-18-2016, 02:15 PM
#462
I've never been out to the Hobbyplex, did the team switch to Ball Diffs because the track was loose and they were looking for extra grip? From what I understand the ball diff should be for anything from loose/loamy outdoor low bite to medium bite, and the gear diff should be better on med/high bite (watered indoor clay) up to high-bite carpet.
I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
I'd just like to understand what conditions would warrant dropping in a ball diff, at my home track it seems like the grip level is always high enough that the gear diffs outperform the ball diffs. However, I'm planning to do some traveling this winter and I'm going to need to learn to adapt to different tracks!
08-18-2016, 02:35 PM
#463
For med/high bite tracks where slicks are the tire of choice, are most flipping the arms and running the shocks in the front like we were doing with the 1.0? Also when doing this , I think I read it's necessary to put a 1mm ball stud washer on the upper shock mount to get the correct shock geometry?
Thank you in advance for any help.
Thank you in advance for any help.
08-18-2016, 02:44 PM
#464
I try to check mine every couple race days, and so far there has been hardly any signs of wear on the belts (if so minimal) since I first got the car back in late May/ early June. As for the diffs I think TLR really hit the design out of the park as they don't seem to leak at all. Most of the time I just freshen up the oil every 2-3 race days if running at the same track.
08-18-2016, 03:14 PM
#465
I try to check mine every couple race days, and so far there has been hardly any signs of wear on the belts (if so minimal) since I first got the car back in late May/ early June. As for the diffs I think TLR really hit the design out of the park as they don't seem to leak at all. Most of the time I just freshen up the oil every 2-3 race days if running at the same track.