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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-20-2017, 04:09 PM   #1081
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If I was handing a 4wd over to a younger child, I'd snag a used D413 and let them hit whatever they want to. That thing will stand up to abuse better than any wheeler I've seen. For adults, the 22-4 2.0 is the ticket.
No disagreement about the D413. Its just not easy to get parts for sometimes and I didn't enjoy wrenching on it.
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Old 01-20-2017, 04:16 PM   #1082
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So, can someone tell me what the difference between the new 2.0 version against the 1.0 version besides the diffs and tweaks to the belt covers??? The 1.0 version comes with the clicker set up which I loved on the original xx-4 car & I love the ball diffs, Never had any issues with them & don't run carpet tracks just hard groove outdoor. Any and all information would be Greatly appreciated
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:51 PM   #1083
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Do you guys run with fan (13.5) even though its winter season right now?
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:52 PM   #1084
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So, can someone tell me what the difference between the new 2.0 version against the 1.0 version besides the diffs and tweaks to the belt covers??? The 1.0 version comes with the clicker set up which I loved on the original xx-4 car & I love the ball diffs, Never had any issues with them & don't run carpet tracks just hard groove outdoor. Any and all information would be Greatly appreciated
The clicker works with the 2.0 I have it in mine.
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:32 AM   #1085
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I figured the clicker would work on the new car But it doesn't say its included like the 1.0, reading through the first 15 pages on here it doesnt appear there are any crazy changes, besides gear diff which I prefer to Not use, newer chassis and belt cover design... Leaning towards the 1.0 version, you can get them new for $230
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:58 AM   #1086
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belt covers are modified so you can run gear diffs or ball diffs. Rear end was updated. Front bulkhead updated with steel front brace. You can run the clicker from the 1.0 or on the 2.0 they included a one piece front pulley as a lot of us ran it locked so they molded a one piece part for the 2.0 but you can run the clicker still if you choose.
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Last edited by Casper; 01-21-2017 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:27 AM   #1087
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Thanks Casper...
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Old 01-22-2017, 12:02 AM   #1088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
I figured the clicker would work on the new car But it doesn't say its included like the 1.0, reading through the first 15 pages on here it doesnt appear there are any crazy changes, besides gear diff which I prefer to Not use, newer chassis and belt cover design... Leaning towards the 1.0 version, you can get them new for $230
If you are only running loose outdoor stuff You will want the ball diffs and universals (preferred for bumpier surfaces), so the 1.0 is a reasonable choice - you will probably want to at least pick up the updated front belt cover and front brace, but most of the stuff on the 2.0 you are missing out on is for higher grip surfaces (gear diffs, cva, sway bar). There are other perks of the 2.0 version like not having to mod the chassis to fit a shorty battery, the better rear camber block, and not having to remove the rear belt cover to access the center cover... but the 1.0 + updated bits route will be quite a bit cheaper than a 2.0 + pair of ball diffs + a set of universals + clicker assembly (if you prefer it) and probably a 3.0 degree rear toe block as well (new car has a 2.5 for higher grip).

Both are great cars, and if you grow to love your 1.0 you can keep a lot of spare or option parts for a 2.0 if you decide to upgrade in the future too
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:52 PM   #1089
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whats the part number for the front belt only? I can't seem to find that , it always come with the side belt.
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Old 01-23-2017, 02:49 AM   #1090
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whats the part number for the front belt only? I can't seem to find that , it always come with the side belt.
The front and side belt are the same size and share the same part# TLR232040
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Old 01-23-2017, 05:09 PM   #1091
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The front and side belt are the same size and share the same part# TLR232040
sweet. thank you.
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Old 01-24-2017, 12:53 PM   #1092
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belt covers are modified so you can run gear diffs or ball diffs. Rear end was updated. Front bulkhead updated with steel front brace. You can run the clicker from the 1.0 or on the 2.0 they included a one piece front pulley as a lot of us ran it locked so they molded a one piece part for the 2.0 but you can run the clicker still if you choose.
casper, what all would i need to get to set up the clicker, Im leaning towards the new car
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Old 01-24-2017, 01:28 PM   #1093
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http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...22-4-tlr232023
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Old 01-24-2017, 02:03 PM   #1094
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Thank you sir
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:00 PM   #1095
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i have a question regarding the belt tension i just finished the part where the rear diff goes in and was wondering if its normal for the belts to be tight upon first install will the drivetrain loosen up as i drive the car or am i missing something or did something wrong during the build ill be using a 6.5 motor if that helps from the looks of it now it would make sense that the motor would run hot on initial breakin any advice would help as i do nit want to go any further because i have it all accessible as of now

thank you
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