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Old 04-05-2019, 08:52 AM
  #271  
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Default Crazy idea

Hiya optimaniacs,

Since we're talking bout using Lazer wheels on the optima... Can we just use the zx6/7 front and rear suspension arms/hubs/uprights? It should fit, cos the optima's suspension mounts are outside the width of the arms, no other inside, like Tamiya top force or rc10...

Any input?

Cos it would dilute a bit of optima flavour, but I'm all for experimenting.

Alexander
P.s. don't rally up the lynch mob.

Last edited by foampervert; 04-05-2019 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 04-05-2019, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by foampervert
Hiya optimaniacs,

Since we're talking bout using Lazer wheels on the optima... Can we just use the zx6/7 front and rear suspension arms/hubs/uprights? It should fit, cos the optima's suspension mounts are outside the width of the arms, no other inside, like Tamiya top force or rc10...

Any input?

Cos it would dilute a bit of optima flavour, but I'm all for experimenting.

Alexander
P.s. don't rally up the lynch mob.
I did this with my Optima Mid. Worked great. it's just not the same though....
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:13 PM
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Never owned a Kyosho before and I am thinking about getting a re optima , re turbo scorpion or re turbo optima. what type of brushless motors can they handle? My only buggy experience is tamiya, how durable are Kyosho’s as runners?
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by michaels tc
Never owned a Kyosho before and I am thinking about getting a re optima , re turbo scorpion or re turbo optima. what type of brushless motors can they handle? My only buggy experience is tamiya, how durable are Kyosho’s as runners?
Very. Get the Turbo Optima. The Optimas need the belt for brushless and they sell a $12 spur gear as a brushless upgrade part. I just ordered a Turbo Optima and a white Javelin cage today. Should be a pretty combo.
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Old 04-10-2019, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by michaels tc
Never owned a Kyosho before and I am thinking about getting a re optima , re turbo scorpion or re turbo optima. what type of brushless motors can they handle? My only buggy experience is tamiya, how durable are Kyosho’s as runners?
I have a Castle Sidewinder 4 with the 1410 series 3800kv motor. Excellent combo with 2s lipo, although 3s is too much in my opinion.
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Hornet88


I have a Castle Sidewinder 4 with the 1410 series 3800kv motor. Excellent combo with 2s lipo, although 3s is too much in my opinion.
Are you running that with the belt or chain? I ran mine for the first time this past Saturday with a 21.5 in it and it was painfully slow. lol I was worried about the 10.5 and the chain so I had switched it at the last moment before I ran it. Now that I see they have a spur for brushless I'm gonna order that. Hopefully that will get me to a better place for gearing with the 21.5. I saw someone a while back was using a 10.5 with the stock gear and said it was about perfect, but they were using the belt drive. Good to know that combo will hold up to it.
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JCarr
Are you running that with the belt or chain? I ran mine for the first time this past Saturday with a 21.5 in it and it was painfully slow. lol I was worried about the 10.5 and the chain so I had switched it at the last moment before I ran it. Now that I see they have a spur for brushless I'm gonna order that. Hopefully that will get me to a better place for gearing with the 21.5. I saw someone a while back was using a 10.5 with the stock gear and said it was about perfect, but they were using the belt drive. Good to know that combo will hold up to it.
I’m using the belt. From reading a lot of user feedback, it seems the consensus is that the chain is more for nostalgia, and/or a less powerful brushed setup. The chain also requires adjusting as it stretches. So far, I haven’t noticed any stretch in the belt. Pretty sure it’s a non-issue.

Also, the castle motor doesn’t have a “turn” rating, but the folks at the tech desk over there say it’s roughly a 10-11 turn. I have that 51t spur gear and have tried a number of different ratios with the Polypro hybrid pinion gears. They’re surprisingly durable, considering how narrow they are. They’re cheap on eBay too! I use just a little bit of the associated #6591 diff lube on the plastic mating surfaces. It may not be necessary, but I’ve heard it can be helpful, and as long as you brush off your gears pretty regularly, the grease doesn’t seem to attract much grit.

Currently, my final drive ratio is 6.04, and even with 3s, there’s no overheating issues. There’s definitely a way too fast issue, and in hindsight, I wouldn’t have purchased a 3s battery for this buggy- 2s is more than enough. I’ve got some heavier vehicles that can handle the 3s.

Happy bashing/racing!
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Hornet88


I’m using the belt. From reading a lot of user feedback, it seems the consensus is that the chain is more for nostalgia, and/or a less powerful brushed setup. The chain also requires adjusting as it stretches. So far, I haven’t noticed any stretch in the belt. Pretty sure it’s a non-issue.

Also, the castle motor doesn’t have a “turn” rating, but the folks at the tech desk over there say it’s roughly a 10-11 turn. I have that 51t spur gear and have tried a number of different ratios with the Polypro hybrid pinion gears. They’re surprisingly durable, considering how narrow they are. They’re cheap on eBay too! I use just a little bit of the associated #6591 diff lube on the plastic mating surfaces. It may not be necessary, but I’ve heard it can be helpful, and as long as you brush off your gears pretty regularly, the grease doesn’t seem to attract much grit.

Currently, my final drive ratio is 6.04, and even with 3s, there’s no overheating issues. There’s definitely a way too fast issue, and in hindsight, I wouldn’t have purchased a 3s battery for this buggy- 2s is more than enough. I’ve got some heavier vehicles that can handle the 3s.

Happy bashing/racing!
Thanks for the info Hornet. I am using the chain 'cause that's the way they came originally. I may eventually switch to the belt, but I wasn't really planning on pushing too much power through it. There is talk of one of the shops near me starting a vintage offroad class so, Im waiting to see what becomes of that before I make too many changes. I'm shocked a 3s even fits in the chassis, I have a 2s 3300 that barely fits in there. lol
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Old 04-23-2019, 09:03 AM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by JCarr
Thanks for the info Hornet. I am using the chain 'cause that's the way they came originally. I may eventually switch to the belt, but I wasn't really planning on pushing too much power through it. There is talk of one of the shops near me starting a vintage offroad class so, Im waiting to see what becomes of that before I make too many changes. I'm shocked a 3s even fits in the chassis, I have a 2s 3300 that barely fits in there. lol
You bet! I’ve heard the chain drive sound really cool in a retro kind of way. The max battery is roughly 139x25x47mm. It’s been a little difficult finding just the right fit, but there’s options out there.

I hope your local track gets a vintage series going! The Optima is pretty tough all around, I’m sure you could whip that thing around the track without completely obliterating it
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Old 08-04-2019, 10:49 AM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Nice! I have a new body coming from Banzai as well!
Very Nice!.
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Old 08-04-2019, 10:50 AM
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We had the Turbo Optima Re Release earlier this year now we wait for the Optima Mid maybe this winter ?.
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Old 08-04-2019, 11:13 AM
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Old 08-04-2019, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Raman
Yes they did.. I believe it was world champion in 4wd many times

Oops

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Old 08-08-2019, 05:01 PM
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Anyone know of a stronger-than-stock M2.6 counter sunk washer? Because I've only driven about a dozen times and have managed to break three of them. Two on the bottom of the chassis and one on the side front plate. Could probably get by without using any at all but I really like how they look.
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Old 08-08-2019, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by underwater
Anyone know of a stronger-than-stock M2.6 counter sunk washer? Because I've only driven about a dozen times and have managed to break three of them. Two on the bottom of the chassis and one on the side front plate. Could probably get by without using any at all but I really like how they look.
I’ll second that! I’ve had a similar problem myself, and ordered a couple extra screw kits just to have some extras. I searched high and low with no luck. My best advice is to use loctite on all of those screws, so that you don’t have to over-tighten them. Then make sure you let them set for a full 24 hours before running. It’s worked well for me so far. I just use team associated blue thread lock.
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