26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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02-17-2016, 08:38 PM
#2071
I'm having a lot of front end push problems on carpet with my 3.0. I'm running the stock springs with 45wt in the front 40w in the rear. Basically box setup with the rear shocks at the outside hole on the rear a-arms and the fronts in the stock position. I've tried moving them around but the best has so far has been there. I took the wing down a line so I'd have a little less drag hoping to keep more weight on the front. I'm installing my gear diff this week for Saturday plan on running the Diff at 5k. Slipper isn't crazy tight. Proline wedges with cut down wheels up front and pin points in that back. I'm open to any suggestions if someone else has had the same issues and found a setup fix. Thanks!
02-17-2016, 09:58 PM
#2072
I'm having a lot of front end push problems on carpet with my 3.0. I'm running the stock springs with 45wt in the front 40w in the rear. Basically box setup with the rear shocks at the outside hole on the rear a-arms and the fronts in the stock position. I've tried moving them around but the best has so far has been there. I took the wing down a line so I'd have a little less drag hoping to keep more weight on the front. I'm installing my gear diff this week for Saturday plan on running the Diff at 5k. Slipper isn't crazy tight. Proline wedges with cut down wheels up front and pin points in that back. I'm open to any suggestions if someone else has had the same issues and found a setup fix. Thanks!
Petitrc has several carpet setups and after looking at those you're way too heavy in the oil. Take a look at the setups and see if any of those help you.
02-17-2016, 10:14 PM
#2073
It's all on power, under hard breaking its pushy in the hairpins but that's just me trying to rush corners. I saw some of their setups I'll try one. Thanks.
02-18-2016, 12:00 AM
#2075
Ae guy
I'm an ae guy and was just wondering how people really feel about this car and if it's worth switching all wheels and parts to a TLR I don't want to be dissapointed. Thanks guys
02-18-2016, 12:36 AM
#2076
I'm having a lot of front end push problems on carpet with my 3.0. I'm running the stock springs with 45wt in the front 40w in the rear. Basically box setup with the rear shocks at the outside hole on the rear a-arms and the fronts in the stock position. I've tried moving them around but the best has so far has been there. I took the wing down a line so I'd have a little less drag hoping to keep more weight on the front. I'm installing my gear diff this week for Saturday plan on running the Diff at 5k. Slipper isn't crazy tight. Proline wedges with cut down wheels up front and pin points in that back. I'm open to any suggestions if someone else has had the same issues and found a setup fix. Thanks!
02-18-2016, 12:56 AM
#2077
Not that I have broken anything yet, but suggested spares would be arms, rear shock tower and rear camber mount. Oh, tires and batteries because you just wont want to stop driving it.
02-18-2016, 05:01 AM
#2078
02-18-2016, 05:36 AM
#2079
This is my best turf set up to date.
I run the Pro Line carpet tires also.
The springs are Associated, and the front stroke is 21.5mm.
I haven't measured the rear stroke yet, will do that tonight.
Good luck
I run the Pro Line carpet tires also.
The springs are Associated, and the front stroke is 21.5mm.
I haven't measured the rear stroke yet, will do that tonight.
Good luck
Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
02-18-2016, 08:12 AM
#2080
the 2wd version uses plastic main gear the 4wd version uses aluminum. that is the only difference.I went with the srx4 (aluminum version) because it for sure has the updated o'rings which do not leak, the older SRX2 difs leaked really bad. I am sure they updated both but if for some reason you end up with an older stock SRX2 diff, it will leak. the new O rings are clear. i started with 2 gears and 12k and it is perfect on high bite /slicks track. Sven had 10k in his the other night and felt that it was a bit too low. i was told to start with 15k but only had 12 on hand.
02-18-2016, 08:43 AM
#2081
Tech Adept
I just wish I could get to the track more often to drive this beast!
02-18-2016, 09:09 AM
#2082
You can use all of your B5's rear wheels (might need to ream the axle hole slightly) but you'll need new fronts.
02-18-2016, 10:02 AM
#2083
Tech Apprentice
Rear hubs - Aluminum v. Plastic
I came across this tonight and wanted to share...
I had been running the aluminum rear hubs w/ 3mm of spacers. I switched back to the stock rear hubs and immediately noticed some rub on the ball cup. After measuring the height of the hubs I found out the stock hubs are 1mm taller. Going down to 2mm of spacers did the trick - you might want to measure your own hubs if you're switching between the two.
I had been running the aluminum rear hubs w/ 3mm of spacers. I switched back to the stock rear hubs and immediately noticed some rub on the ball cup. After measuring the height of the hubs I found out the stock hubs are 1mm taller. Going down to 2mm of spacers did the trick - you might want to measure your own hubs if you're switching between the two.
02-18-2016, 11:35 AM
#2084
I came across this tonight and wanted to share...
I had been running the aluminum rear hubs w/ 3mm of spacers. I switched back to the stock rear hubs and immediately noticed some rub on the ball cup. After measuring the height of the hubs I found out the stock hubs are 1mm taller. Going down to 2mm of spacers did the trick - you might want to measure your own hubs if you're switching between the two.
I had been running the aluminum rear hubs w/ 3mm of spacers. I switched back to the stock rear hubs and immediately noticed some rub on the ball cup. After measuring the height of the hubs I found out the stock hubs are 1mm taller. Going down to 2mm of spacers did the trick - you might want to measure your own hubs if you're switching between the two.
02-18-2016, 02:36 PM
#2085
Tech Adept