26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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01-02-2017, 03:30 PM
#4036
Got my spec car finished and to the track today. What a great car. Not sure where the 1450 weight came from mine was 1496 with standard shorty batt.
01-02-2017, 08:04 PM
#4037
I built my Spec Racer right after the release and have a few track days on it now. It has exceeded my expectations and I feel is a more consistent car than my B6 on the clay track I usually go to.
Now that I have what i feel is a solid setup, I am having issues getting the car up to min weight. Part of this is my fault because I built the car way too light, but I was getting parts together to build a standard 3.0 for stock racing when the SR was released so I used a lot of additional lightweight parts I had just got for the standard kit.
I added the +30g front hinge pin holder and am still at 1440g ready to hit the track. I've already ditched my 3800 mah Orion XS shorty for a full size protek shorty. For the previous track days I servo taped in a 25g B6 C block behind the battery and ran brass Lipo plates to make min weight. I had to use an Exotek battery strap flipped upside down to fit the battery with all the plates under it.
Does TLR make any sort of chassis weight for the 3.0? I know they made some bolt in weights for the 2.0 in mid motor config. I also considered just using a standard chassis but i like how the SR chassis is working right now so would rather not change.
Now that I have what i feel is a solid setup, I am having issues getting the car up to min weight. Part of this is my fault because I built the car way too light, but I was getting parts together to build a standard 3.0 for stock racing when the SR was released so I used a lot of additional lightweight parts I had just got for the standard kit.
I added the +30g front hinge pin holder and am still at 1440g ready to hit the track. I've already ditched my 3800 mah Orion XS shorty for a full size protek shorty. For the previous track days I servo taped in a 25g B6 C block behind the battery and ran brass Lipo plates to make min weight. I had to use an Exotek battery strap flipped upside down to fit the battery with all the plates under it.
Does TLR make any sort of chassis weight for the 3.0? I know they made some bolt in weights for the 2.0 in mid motor config. I also considered just using a standard chassis but i like how the SR chassis is working right now so would rather not change.
01-03-2017, 03:24 AM
#4038
I built my Spec Racer right after the release and have a few track days on it now. It has exceeded my expectations and I feel is a more consistent car than my B6 on the clay track I usually go to.
Now that I have what i feel is a solid setup, I am having issues getting the car up to min weight. Part of this is my fault because I built the car way too light, but I was getting parts together to build a standard 3.0 for stock racing when the SR was released so I used a lot of additional lightweight parts I had just got for the standard kit.
I added the +30g front hinge pin holder and am still at 1440g ready to hit the track. I've already ditched my 3800 mah Orion XS shorty for a full size protek shorty. For the previous track days I servo taped in a 25g B6 C block behind the battery and ran brass Lipo plates to make min weight. I had to use an Exotek battery strap flipped upside down to fit the battery with all the plates under it.
Does TLR make any sort of chassis weight for the 3.0? I know they made some bolt in weights for the 2.0 in mid motor config. I also considered just using a standard chassis but i like how the SR chassis is working right now so would rather not change.
Now that I have what i feel is a solid setup, I am having issues getting the car up to min weight. Part of this is my fault because I built the car way too light, but I was getting parts together to build a standard 3.0 for stock racing when the SR was released so I used a lot of additional lightweight parts I had just got for the standard kit.
I added the +30g front hinge pin holder and am still at 1440g ready to hit the track. I've already ditched my 3800 mah Orion XS shorty for a full size protek shorty. For the previous track days I servo taped in a 25g B6 C block behind the battery and ran brass Lipo plates to make min weight. I had to use an Exotek battery strap flipped upside down to fit the battery with all the plates under it.
Does TLR make any sort of chassis weight for the 3.0? I know they made some bolt in weights for the 2.0 in mid motor config. I also considered just using a standard chassis but i like how the SR chassis is working right now so would rather not change.
I'd probably add those aluminum bits, see where you're at, then you can try brass kick shim or battery weight depending on where you need it based on handling.
01-03-2017, 04:06 AM
#4039
You could use the brass front kick shim. Use the aluminum front pivot instead of plastic. Also, SMC makes some 30g brass plates that stand up next to the battery; that would keep you from having to cram plates under and raising the battery. Use the aluminum steering rack and servo mounts, either TLR or Exotek.
I'd probably add those aluminum bits, see where you're at, then you can try brass kick shim or battery weight depending on where you need it based on handling.
I'd probably add those aluminum bits, see where you're at, then you can try brass kick shim or battery weight depending on where you need it based on handling.
01-03-2017, 06:41 PM
#4041
Quick question. I came off of the track today and checked my shocks rebound and my rears (havent checked front yet) have close to 100% rebound.. i build them dead. Am i just not bleeding enough when i put oil in or could it be caused by old xrings? Theres a spot on both shafts where the coating is kinda starting to rub off, could that cause it? Thanks
Update.. i can bleed one of my rear shocks until a quarter of the oil is gone out of the shock and it still has about 90% almost 100% rebound. I replaced the xrings.. only thing that it could be is the shock shafts..?
Update.. i can bleed one of my rear shocks until a quarter of the oil is gone out of the shock and it still has about 90% almost 100% rebound. I replaced the xrings.. only thing that it could be is the shock shafts..?
Last edited by Cday; 01-03-2017 at 09:07 PM.
01-03-2017, 08:29 PM
#4042
I was experiencing that when my car was brand new. They're taking on air after being sealed up. I bleed them and seal with the shaft all the way in (no air inside). Adter sealing, when you draw the shaft out, the necessary amount of air comes in through the shaft seals. I find this results in consistent setup.
I'm interested in trying the tessman setup (bladders, vented caps) but I get so little track time I am reluctant to mess with something that's working.
I'm interested in trying the tessman setup (bladders, vented caps) but I get so little track time I am reluctant to mess with something that's working.
01-04-2017, 08:48 AM
#4043
01-04-2017, 10:07 AM
#4045
Why is the original laydown conversion tlr338004 discontinued? Also, if you have the original conversion, what is the front pivot mod you need to do?
01-04-2017, 11:49 AM
#4046
Here is the video - https://www.facebook.com/16771357659...3329861365716/
01-04-2017, 11:56 AM
#4047
We moved to the dirt laydown conversion kit. There weren't enough sales to carry both although both cases will remain available.
Here is the video - https://www.facebook.com/16771357659...3329861365716/
Here is the video - https://www.facebook.com/16771357659...3329861365716/
Also, how do you do the front pivot mod, or is it just better to get the hrc front pivot
01-04-2017, 12:27 PM
#4049
Facebook Video - HRC Mod
It's my understanding the HRC block accomplishes the same geometry but since it's made of aluminum, it's up to you to decide whether you want the extra weight added in that particular location. I personally run the aluminum block and it suits me just fine.
01-04-2017, 02:19 PM
#4050
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Sales would have been much better
If Losi would just come out with a carpet version of 22 for around 350 like everyone else instead of approx 320 for kit and 180 for lay down tranny. And I am a loyal Losi supporter. But that doesn't make any sense at all to me.