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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 05-03-2016, 01:10 PM
  #2971  
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i got my setup posted on the xray site.. yall have seen my track conditions.. and my car is velcro.. i havent changed much from JoeAD setup.. rear gear diff.. also rear shock locations are different.. and rear upper link locations are a little different as well.. and tons of traction..

i might add.. this setup has alot of steering as well.. likes to be driven hard..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:45 PM
  #2972  
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Decided to try Robert Gonzalezs' srs setup on my buggy and realized it has almost no front droop. Has anyone else tried it?
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:34 PM
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Daniel - Is this setup used with the medium AE Springcups IN ADDITION to the 2mm & 3mm Upstops? thx

Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
i got my setup posted on the xray site.. yall have seen my track conditions.. and my car is velcro.. i havent changed much from JoeAD setup.. rear gear diff.. also rear shock locations are different.. and rear upper link locations are a little different as well.. and tons of traction..

i might add.. this setup has alot of steering as well.. likes to be driven hard..

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=xb2_2016
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:46 PM
  #2974  
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correct.. i am using the AE medium cups.. i updated the sheet..
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:50 PM
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i think i may go do some testing this weekend.. since its an off weekend.. one more weekend for the series.. dont wanna change much. also plan on testing the new Tekin Gen3 rotor.
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Old 05-04-2016, 01:29 PM
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can someone please confirm if there is indeed a diff rebuild kit available instead of buying the whole unit from amain for 72 bucks. Thx
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:02 PM
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It does not make sense to buy a diff rebuild kit. The sum of the parts are way more expensive than the whole diff.

Originally Posted by xxx123
can someone please confirm if there is indeed a diff rebuild kit available instead of buying the whole unit from amain for 72 bucks. Thx
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:17 PM
  #2978  
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Originally Posted by JAE
It does not make sense to buy a diff rebuild kit. The sum of the parts are way more expensive than the whole diff.
Assuming the diff is a ball diff, what else do you need besides rings and balls?
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:19 PM
  #2979  
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i know i cant compare much with AE. But considering i spent roughly 12 bucks for MIP balls for B5m. I really want to try XB2....
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by xxx123
i know i cant compare much with AE. But considering i spent roughly 12 bucks for MIP balls for B5m. I really want to try XB2....
According to a member that is not allowed to post here at this time.....the xb2 uses the same size diff balls, rings and thrust as the AE car.
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
According to a member that is not allowed to post here at this time.....the xb2 uses the same size diff balls, rings and thrust as the AE car.
Good good good.......thanks a lot
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Old 05-04-2016, 04:05 PM
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I guess you could just get protek aftermarket balls and rings for $20-$30.If you buy Xray, you may as well pay the $70 and get the whole diff, as you get 2 outdrives as well, which would cost around $60 themselves..
Originally Posted by Kraig
Assuming the diff is a ball diff, what else do you need besides rings and balls?
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:54 PM
  #2983  
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Originally Posted by punkracer24



the stock xray pistons are not as tight of a fit as Schelle pistons either. So if you are running stock pistons you probably will go up in oil. Xray is "Testing" machined pistons but are pretty convinced that the current amount of Blow by helps with traction

The oil flowing around the outside of the smaller pistons will center them and keep them from rubbing on the bodies. It can smooth out the shocks and add traction. I keep 3 different brands of 1.2x8 16mm pistons available to tune my Xb9.

But if the pistons are too small, they'll rattle about and slam into the walls of the shock and the car will be all over the place.

It's the same concept as "overboring" in paintball. Oversized diameter barrels keep the paintball centered as gas passes by for less breakage and improved accuracy. But much more air use.
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:26 AM
  #2984  
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Built my shocks with 1mm limiter front 0mm rear. Daniel grobe's setup. Bleed shocks and noi oil comes out? Didn't miss any parts followed there oring, small shim, oring, large shim, cap. Is this normal? None of the shocks blead?

Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
correct.. i am using the AE medium cups.. i updated the sheet..
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:53 AM
  #2985  
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I heard that the rear motor position isn't available in the dirt kit
is it truth, and if it is , why xray doesn't change it on their website.
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